by You may not be surprised to read that I came to Brussels on a business trip. The Belgian capital, arguably best known for its EU credentials, never crossed my mind as a holiday destination. I had fallen into the trap of thinking of it as a “boring”, stuffy city, but I was glad to be wrong. Over the years I have been drawn back several times, along with a significant increase in tourist numbers in recent years, although at an all-time high, it is well below most of the best city breaks in Europe.
The buzz of this city, full of amazing architecture, art and world-class gastronomy, excited me again as soon as I arrived on my latest visit. As I walked down lively streets from Midi Bruxelles station to my hotel, I passed art exhibitions and an impressive array of very cool vintage clothing shops, as well as the expected abundance of chocolates.
I was staying at Hotel Amigo. I could talk all day about the view from my bedroom balcony, which looked out over the Plaça Mór and the quaint cobbled streets, but inside the elegant red brick building is just as amazing. In homage to some of Brussels’ most famous artists, Magritte’s originals, prints of Herge’s enduring classic Tintin (there’s even a whole Tintin series!) and pieces by Goossens, Moulinsart and Broodthaers adorn the walls. Downstairs, the new Bar Magritte offers cocktails inspired by some of the artist’s most famous works (including one served in a bowler hat).
The city has many options to continue your night over aperitifs. Try Bonnefooi, a great all-night cafe that opens from 8pm to 8am, hosting the best live musical instruments in Brussels. Or for something lively but a little tamer, head to Roskam for jazz and Belgian beer.
Days can be dedicated to art. The Royal Museum of Fine Arts of Belgium is hosting IAGINE! Exhibition, celebrating 100 years of international surrealism. But you don’t have to go into a gallery to appreciate local art and art history. On top of the Magritte Museum I saw a huge green apple in tribute to the artist. After grabbing a cone of frites with mayonnaise, I wandered the streets following the trail of comic strips and the street art trail of 80 murals. Modern art structures and paintings cover the entire sides of the elegant buildings featuring beloved cartoon characters such as Tintin, the Smurfs and Asterix. I explored on foot, but you can also do it by bike. If you prefer to be accompanied, you can book a tour with an art expert (from €150).
By following the comic trail you will eventually find yourself in the medieval Marollen neighborhood, which embodies the essence of the city with its abundance of antique and second-hand shops, and historic bars.
On the edge of this area, I stayed at the Hotel Brussels. Perhaps the most impressive sight is the nearby Palais De Justice, one of the largest buildings in Europe, which you can visit for free.
Another area worth checking out is the trendy shopping belt of Ixelles, birthplace of Audrey Hepburn. Here you’ll find restaurants like the plant-based Humus x Hortense, which offer changing tasting menus to match the 24 “micro-seasons” of the year. While there is something to be said for a traditional carbonated stew, Brussels is full of delicious surprises that typically shy away from rich fare. Another place to try is the contemporary seafood restaurant Aster, which opened its doors a year ago and offers a divine seven-course tasting menu.
You will also find one of the city’s best kept secrets in Ixelles: La Cambre Abbey. This complex and peaceful ancient garden, which dates back to 1201, makes a real sanctuary, and like the nearby Bois de la Cambre, it is ideal for a peaceful picnic or a walk. For a little late afternoon fun in the city centre, don’t miss the all-you-can-eat Waffle Workshop, hidden in an unsuspecting back street, or a beer tasting at Brasserie de la Senne, one of the few craft breweries open. for visitors.
There’s a lot to love about Brussels’ most famous areas, but it’s worth traveling further afield to experience a completely different side of the city. On the edge you will find Mix hotel, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding forest. Try to reserve room at the top of the cross-shaped design for four floor-to-ceiling windows instead of two.
There is much more to Brussels than most people realize. In fact, the people who live there say that it has “Belgium”: completely unique, exciting and far from boring.
Ruby Deevoy was a guest at Amigo Hotel (00 32 2 547 4747), which offers doubles from €380, and the Hotel Brussels (00 32 2 504 1111; thehotel-brussels.be), which offers doubles from €173.
