Throughout the summer, our Secret Seaside series will be showcasing lesser-known corners of Europe that provide an alternative to more popular destinations. This week, Jane Foster offers a guide to Cape Kamenjak in Istria, Croatia.
In recent years the Istrian port city of Pula, dominated by its magnificent Roman amphitheatre, which hosts open-air concerts in the summer, has entered the tourism mainstream. Low-cost airlines fly there from Britain, and a cluster of large, modern waterfront hotels can be found just south of the city centre, on the Verudela peninsula. Go a little further south, however – as many tourists do – and you’ll find the rocky, pine-scented Cape Kamenjak, a protected nature reserve that remains blissfully undeveloped.
A complete escape from the urban republic, the Cape encompasses some 20 miles of rugged rocky coastline, with several isolated finger bays for swimming and within tall Aleppo pines. The woodland is criss-crossed by paths from which you can spot pines, pheasants and red squirrels. Kamenjak is popular with nature lovers and adventure seekers, couples and families, but few come from further afield than neighboring Italy. British voices are indeed very rare.
Both entrances to the sanctuary are located just behind the village of Premantura (six miles from the city center of Pula), where the Kamenjak Nature House eco-center offers an introduction to the flora, fauna and geology of the area. Entrance to Kamenjak is free if you want to explore on foot or by mountain bike; Vehicle entry costs €10-15 (£8-13) depending on the season, but a jeep is better than a car on this rugged terrain.
Adventure awaits. Rent-a-bike Premantura, based in the village, offers half- and full-day guided cycling tours, with stops for a swim at several beaches along the way. There are also bikes for hire if you want to go alone. The most beautiful route is the 7½ mile Orchid Trail, which goes around the Cape, starting and ending in Premantura.
On the east coast is the Školji Školjić beach, a great choice for water sports. From here, Istra Kayak runs three-hour guided sea kayaking trips down the east coast to the tip of the Cape (including sea cave snorkelling), as well as slightly shorter sunset and full moon kayaking trips . They also have single and double kayaks and stand up paddleboards for rent.
Kamenjak has excellent conditions for windsurfing, as it is sheltered from the north, but receives good winds from the east and west. In the summer, the sweet menstrual the wind blows onshore from midday onwards, making this a great place for beginners. Windsurfing station, also on Školjić beach, offers lessons and rentals.
If scuba diving is more your thing, Dive Center Scuba Libre is located in the Arena Runke campsite in Runke Bay, also on the east coast. It offers diving instruction for all abilities and can arrange dives at a variety of sites, including many shipwrecks. The most notable of these is the Vis, a former command ship of the Yugoslav Navy, built in 1956. She also has small motor boats for hire, if you wanted to explore the coast – you could cruise down to Malí Portić beach, a sheltered pebble cove and pine trees behind which is a popular beach bar.
Those hoping to enjoy spectacular sunsets should, of course, head to the west coast. An obvious choice is Pinižula beach, a rock and pebble cove with plenty of shallowness that makes it popular with families. Further south and a little harder to find, the beautiful beach of Njive combines pebbles with a rocky shore and crystal-clear waters.
But, for most visitors to the area, the highlight is Mala Kolumbarica, on the southern tip of Kamenjak. With wide views of the sea, it is an expanse of smooth, flat rocks, perfect for sunbathing. There are also cliffs, some as high as 11m (36ft), from which adrenalin junkies enjoy jumping or splashing into the deep, clear sea. A nearby sea cave is popular for snorkeling and underwater photography.
From Mala Kolumbarica, you can see the island of Fenoliga to the west, and beyond it, rising on the horizon, the Porer lighthouse, built in 1883 (which has an apartment available for rent, sleeping four in two double rooms). High above the beach, hidden among bamboo and palm fronds, is the magnificent Safari Bar, a perfect spot for a sunbather. It’s one of those places you won’t want to leave – like the rest of Cape Kamenjak.
Go there
From Pula main bus station, bus 28 goes directly to Premantura. From here it is a short walk to the entrance to Cape Kamenjak nature reserve.
Where to stay
On a budget
In Premantura, the family-run Villa Marizella has two comfortable apartments (sleeps four) and a studio (sleeps two), each with kitchens and outdoor seating areas, as well as a garden with barbecue.
Pushing the boat out
Or, try the five-star seaside Grand Hotel Brioni in the Verudela neighborhood of Pula. Built in 1972, it was renovated in 2022 and offers spacious sea view rooms and a 60m infinity pool. Ask the concierge about private tailored boat trips to Cape Kamenjak.
Where to eat
Safari Bar, above Mala Kolumbarica, has been around since 1993 and is much loved by locals and visitors alike. Serving barbecued sardines and squid from a make-shift booth among lush planting, the sea views are amazing.
Portich Beach Bar, on Malí Portić beach, has tables shaded by white wings and serves delicious homemade burgers with chips, plus cocktails.
Konoba Casa Mia in Premantura offers more serious fare (dinner only), with house specialties including risotto with smoked mussels and saffron, octopus casserole with polenta and steak with truffles.