by ‘Flowers bloom for their own joy,’ was one of Oscar Wilde’s poetic words. And so should your wardrobe. It’s been a warm old spring so it feels fitting to add vim to our style choices now that there’s a faint sliver of blue sky on the horizon.
Seasonal clothing no longer exists, thanks to the general relaxation of rules and our increasingly erratic climate. When packing heavy knitwear (vacuum bags for some, though freezer-proof too) and clumsy footwear used to be a great ceremony, we’re less attached to sartorial habits these days.
Winter is the time when menswear comes alive: the form and fit of a serious suit, straight, the substance of a masterful coat. In the lighter months, we can be a little adrift; the sense of propriety that comes with a well-tailored jacket doesn’t necessarily extend into warmer days. That said, there are some great examples of getting spring weather dressing right. Watch Italian noir god Marcello Mastroianni for a masterclass in sprezzatura – one imagines him eternally sipping an espresso in the Piazza Navona dressed in a white linen suit.
The British reality is often more down-to-earth: ill-fitting polo shirts, slogan T-shirts, cargo trousers and shoes showing unspeakable legs. There is no clear guidance for spring as the weather is still unstable; warmer temperatures but cloudy skies, a pint al fresco but remember the mud patch. So how to negotiate it all?
Your new jacket
Blame fashion magazines and the marketing firms at e-tail websites for this neat little monitor: the chocolate. Simply, a happy hybrid between a shirt and a jacket, putting the template for the first time but in more substantial materials like heavy flannel or cord. Elsewhere, spring blouses are another option – they’re fitted and slim, with a rich history in military wear that means they’re built for ease and dynamism.
Lightweight Bomber Jacket, £230, Gant; Colins Corduroy jumper, £68, Rice
The spring suit
Non-traditional suits can be tricky to navigate, but it doesn’t have to be a full-on fuchsia attack (though we’ll tip our hats to the guy who’s trying to go there). Sometimes black and navy blue don’t feel in sync with the magnolia buds and blue skies of the season, so it’s worth eyeing an outfit in a subtle hue; light blue, sage or stone can give you a modern touch.
Another tweak to your tailored format is to choose a semi-canvas jacket, which is unlined on the back panel, apart from the shoulders, which is lighter and more breathable.
Green Regular Fit Driving Suit Jacket, £74, Forward; Fintra Blazer, £195, London wax
It’s in the details
The point isn’t specific to spring, but there are certain touches a man can add to his standard wardrobe that offer a point of difference and personality (and a general sense of joy in dressing). Colored socks (no pattern: that’s garish-uncle-at-Christmas territory) are an example, as is a light scarf. If you’re really rakish, a smart hat always makes a statement – a classy panama or trilby gives off a gentlemanly air that men don’t wear as much these days.
Sunglasses tend to be an impulse buy at the airport – there’s nothing wrong with that – but if you’re not particularly into something that makes a statement, tortoiseshell or plain black are the staples. Avoid edgeless types or overly sporty options; wraps might look great on Princess Anne, but the rest of us should be using them for outdoor activities rather than wearing our smart spring clothes.
Original Wayfarer Classic sunglasses, £164, Ray-Ban; Drake Red Floral Cotton Silk Scarf, £139.99, Huntington House
Step up your shirting
It could be an instant refresh of the standard line formula of ‘neutral colour, sleeve’. You might want to consider a grandfather collar instead of the everyday variety – and it’s worth considering
fabric. A flannel or denim shirt can work as a cover-up for mild spring weather. The latter is also pleasantly in keeping with the current vogue for all things cowboy Americana.
Of course, the floral shirt in its many guises is a sign that more gloomy months are upon us. Your favorite here is a more muted type of floral – think abstract digital prints or micro-sized flowers. Alternatively, these can read ‘daddy on holiday’. Leave the glorious herbs and hibiscus frills for the summer break.
Sunshine x Katie Scott Notched Collar Shirt, £195, Harrods; Générale Gaston Young Grandpa Cotton-Seersucker Collar Shirt, £195, Mr. Porter
On chinos and shorts
Spring calls for a cheerful color, and the chino is usually its happy home. Red chinos are notoriously controversial – the Fulham bar once banned them – and bold colors aren’t necessarily wearable in every situation, but preppy versions have a distinctly collegiate look. Look for tan, light blue and even pink options, or ones dotted with pre-coded embroidered emblems – Ralph Lauren includes fun flags and tennis rackets.
As for shorts, wait until the summer proper. Even then it is wise to limit how you treat them. No going to the office, or formal events, outside of a real heat wave. And the option to opt for custom, smart types cut off just above the knee; longer, baggier versions look a little studenty.
Chino Slim Fit Embroidered, £169, Ralph Lauren; Ecru Camel Shorts, £17.95, Moss
Decoded spring footwear
Looking for lighter and less formal footwear can lead to poor results; My particular bugs are either ‘performance sports technology’ sandal training hybrids that are so crusty they’re on the verge of becoming sentient, or they’re leather-grinding with those painfully faded tops. As in all men’s style, it’s best to take a lesson from our Italian brothers: choose smart driving shoes that Marche-based shoe behemoth Tod does better than anyone else. Alternatively, suede loafers and less formal boat shoes can be your spring wings in the footwear department. Boat shoes originated in the preppy environments of the US East Coast and look like Ivy League fun on spring days.
And now with sandals, thorny matter. Some stick to the rule that they are holiday attire only. That seems a shame, because sandals have become much more ‘dressy’ in recent years and can look appropriate in the right version. A closed toe is usually easier to handle, in nice leather rather than anything woven or raffia – leave that to your son on his gap year. Never wear in formal settings or a work environment, naturally, and it is always advisable to properly assess how well your feet are; keep them trim and smart with a pedicure kit or book yours at a barbershop that handles things like that.
Gommino Driving Shoes, £510, Tod’s; Leather Fisherman Sandals, £49, John Lewis
