With its spa town heritage, unspoiled rural surroundings and well-kept Victorian streets, it’s easy to see why Ilkley has earned its reputation as Harrogate’s little town, the little-known sibling of its most famous spa town. Yorkshire – or even as a “fatal competitor”, as one local paper salaciously put it.
But I don’t agree. For me, this affluent West Yorkshire town is nothing but a wonderful place with a character of its own, and standing tall on its own two feet.
Yes, there are similarities between Ilkley and Harrogate; there are countless threads on Mumsnet asking which of the two is more appealing to relocate to, and they’re always up against the best places to live in the UK. They are also both rich; in the early 2000s, Ilkley was dubbed the “town of millionaires” after a survey revealed it was home to more than 100. Maybe it’s something in the water.
It also ticked a lot of boxes for visitors. Victorian architecture, famous literary festivals, proximity to the countryside, a steady calendar of cultural activities, a number of worthwhile weekend hotels, and regular trains from Leeds and Bradford make it convenient for tourists.
Bettys tea room is located on the Grove, a wide and bustling thoroughfare where many events, including farmers’ markets, take place. Like Harrogate’s high street, it has the usual chains and high streets, but head over to pockets like Leeds Road and you’ll find lots of independent businesses – a scene that’s thriving in Ilkley.
“We’ve got a lot of new music and food and drink venues moving in over the next few months,” says Sarah Brookfield-Almond, Ilkley business improvement district manager and 20-year resident.
These include: Herd Steakhouse; a new location for the award-winning Ilkley brewery; second restaurant from MasterChef: The Professionals the Matt Healy final (first half away at Horsforth); a speakeasy-style venue called Green Room; and local artisan chocolate, Fusion Chocolates.
These newcomers will sit alongside some of Ilkley’s stalwarts, including Mortens the hardware store, some lovely tea rooms, the aptly named Friends of Ham, and Martinez, an independent wine shop with a bar.
There are also some exciting things happening on the local Denton Estate in nearby Askwith, where The Penny Bun – a wholesome inn with earthen rooms and seasonal menus – recently opened its doors.
There is also a toy museum (which, really, every town should have), and the beautiful Ilkley House Manor, a Grade I listed historic building on the site of an old Roman fort, Olicana. It is now a museum and art gallery with regular heritage and art exhibitions, as well as community events, music concerts, maker fairs, school trips and coffee mornings.
The Ilkley calendar is packed with events of all kinds; consider timing your visit to coincide with the Ilkley Literary Festival, now in its 51st year (held this year 4-20 October), or the carnival at the beginning of May.
“We’re very culturally important,” says Sarah Thomas, chair of Ilkley Manor House Trust. “We have four theater stages – not bad for a town of 14,000 people – as well as King’s Hall, Upstagers, and the Ilkley Playhouse, which puts on some great shows.”
And it’s not just what’s in town that draws visitors; it is also what surrounds him. Sitting in picturesque Wharfedale, on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, Ilkley is bookended by the iconic Cow and Calf rocks (stop by the inn for a post-walk pint) and a Grade II-listed lido, by the River Wharfe crawling through the middle.
The town is a great jumping-off point for a variety of walks – from a three-mile riverside loop, to the 80-mile Dales Way and the 50-mile Stanza Stones trail – and its surroundings are stunning all year round. In spring, Middleton Woods explodes with bluebells; in summer, the heather on the meadow begins to bloom. Come autumn, the surroundings Wuthering Heights the countryside turns into a haze of coffee and burnt orange. There are guided walks in and around the town throughout the year, as is wild swimming near the Riverside Gardens – even on frosty mornings.
I’ll be making my next visit to Ilkley in November – to launch a book with the Printmakers Circle, a local art group co-founded by my mother – but I’ll never come up with reasons to keep going back. Picturesque Harrogate is well worth a visit, but staying in Ilkley – this thriving West Yorkshire town – feels much closer.
The Penny Bun (pennybuilkley.co.uk; 01943 243200) has double rooms from £180, including breakfast. For more information, see visitbradford.com