This article first appeared on our partner site, Independent Arab
The myths and legends of our ancestors were the main source of entertainment and escapism in times before the internet, television or radio. The folktales that most appeal to these stories are those with a hint of the supernatural, especially those involving ghosts and spirits known as “jinn”.
In Omani folklore, the “jinn” is often associated with specific geographical locations. There are legends about a “jinn valley” that men are afraid to enter, and about a “jinn city” where the mysterious creatures are said to live.
One such city full of jinn stories is Bahla, located in the heart of the Omani desert, more than a hundred miles from the capital, Muscat. The city, one of the largest in Ad Dakhiliyah Governorate, is among the oldest human settlements in the Gulf Sultanate.
supernatural beings
Bahla is a unique and charming oasis surrounded by palm trees, with abandoned mud brick houses dotted around its landscape. However, widespread myths about the presence of jinn, said to be supernatural beings separate from humans and angels who live alongside mankind, and legends about camel-eating hyenas and spirits that turn men into donkeys, have encouraged many Omanis to Naming Bahla as “the city of. jinn”. So the locals rarely visit a remote area.
UNESCO heritage site
Dun Bahla was classified as a Unesco World Heritage site in 1987, making it the first Omani landmark to be added to the list. The listed area comprises the entire Oasis of Bahla, including the Bahla Wall and its architectural, archaeological and cultural landmarks and monuments, whether tangible or intangible. According to local tour guide Hamad Al Rabaani, “Inside Bahla Fort, dating back to the Middle Ages and a listed World Heritage site, we believe that jinn are God’s creation, therefore they are not strange”.
One of the popular myths associated with Bahla is that supernatural forces built an eight-mile wall around the city in one night, to protect it from invaders. Speaking to Independent Arab, the 55-year-old tour guide said, “There is a myth of two sisters from among the jinn. One of them built the wall, and the other created an ancient irrigation system for the crops”.
The idea of jinn has a significant presence in Arab culture; few places, however, are as strongly associated with the jinn as Bahla. The tour guide tells that one old woman used to hear someone milking her cow after midnight. But whenever she went to check, she found no one there. Hamad added, “Jinn can be heard but never seen, because your mind is not capable of understanding the thought”.
Fear of bad reputation
When silence falls after midday prayers in Bahla’s old souq, some residents anxiously discuss the subject of jinn, for which the town is famous, and fear how this could destroy image. But Mohammad al-Hashemi, a seventy-year-old resident of Bahla, says he has been influenced by beliefs surrounding the jinn for most of his life, and as a child he heard stories of flaming hyenas roaming the desert in pursuit . of camels to eat.
He told AFP, “They warned us not to go out after sunset because of the magic”.
Deep in the Arabian Peninsula
Dr. Ali Olomi, Assistant Professor of History at Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles, explains, “Oral traditions and ancient texts show that stories of jinn are widespread in the most remote areas of the Arabian Peninsula. Oman and neighboring Yemen, located on the southern side of the Peninsula, are famous not only as ancient lands of significant historical importance, but also as lands of jinn”.
He says, “In Bahla, there are stories of imaginary flames and fires, mystical shifting desert storms, and buildings built by supernatural beings”.
The geographical isolation of this region, surrounded by desert and the Hajar Mountains, contributed to the spread of these myths. Dr Olomi points out that “the presence of jinn in places like Bahla is a valuable source of insight into the history and culture of the Arabian Peninsula. These are the stories of people who lived in remote areas with little contact with other communities and a deep awareness of the natural world around them.”
Suspicion is growing
Despite the many myths about jinn in the oasis, a generation of younger Omanis are not convinced of their existence, including 24-year-old Mazen Al Khateri, who considers the legends “stories told by our ancestors in the has passed. We don’t know if they are right or wrong”.
However, 30-year-old Hassan believes these rumors about the oasis still hold weight. He says, “My family would never let me go to Bahla. Rumor has it that it is the city of jinn, where these creatures have more freedom”.
History of Bahla
Bahla Oasis is located in the Al Dakhiliyah Governorate of the Sultanate of Oman. It is the ancient name given to the area that stretches from the south of the mountains west of Bahla, to Izki. Wadi Bahla borders the oasis in the west, surrounded by mountains on almost all sides. Rivulets flow into the valley, and its location has helped it become a bridge between neighboring areas, especially considering its proximity to ancient cultural sites in the Omani state of Ibri.
Archaeological sites
The oasis is notable for its proximity to many ancient archaeological sites, such as those found in Bisya on the banks of Wadi Bahla, where excavations revealed the presence of circular defensive structures built with stones. Also nearby is Salut, which is considered one of the most famous sites in Oman’s ancient history.
It is worth noting that the excavations carried out by the Ministry of Heritage and Culture of the Sultanate in Bahla Fort in 1993 and 1997 showed significant results, including the discovery of various settlements. A broken terracotta statue of a knight riding a horse, with influences from the period of the English dynasty, was found, as well as an artifact made of steatite. In addition, a large pottery jar was found to store dates or collect honey, and pieces of local pottery and Chinese porcelain were also found.
Review by Tooba Ali and Celine Assaf