by A great dress (one with pockets of course) can be effortless in the best sense of the word. A flattering, comfortable and self-contained outfit, especially in the summer when it’s hot enough to leave the house without a jacket. Now, as the temperature drops in the southern hemisphere, it may seem like the time to retire summer dresses to the back of your wardrobe. But, with the return of Y2K fashion and the trend towards layers and dresses being worn over pants, that doesn’t have to be the case. Here four stylists explain how to build a winter outfit around a summer dress.
‘Scarves are a fun way to make an outfit more wintry’
“A dress is just a dress but it’s a complete look when you layer it with other pieces,” says Melbourne-based stylist Rosalind Seehusen. “Personally, I find summer to be quite boring in terms of style, so for me layering in winter is where the fun starts.”
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For a dress underneath she recommends turtlenecks, tops with a high neckline or a long-sleeved shirt. She will often add warmth by layering a dress over pants like wide leg jeans. “I’m wearing a cotton maxi dress as a gift from a friend with wide leg jeans, biker boots and a menswear blazer,” says Seehusen of her look above. When wearing a coat over the top, she is advised to pick one that is the same length or longer than the dress.
Accessories are also a great way to add warmth, including chunky boots or ballet flats with wool socks. “I always pair with a cap or beret,” she says. “Scarves are also a fun way to make an outfit more wintery.”
‘Tights are an easy way to add warmth and colour’
When Melbourne stylist and creative director Karinda Mutabazi wears dresses in winter, she starts playing with texture, including layering fuzzy knits over light sheer fabrics. She chooses warm and breathable natural fibers, such as wool and cashmere, to layer clothes.
When styling a dress under a knit or jacket she first considers the volume of the dress. She will play up proportions by layering thick knitwear on top of voluminous dresses, or create similar silhouettes by using a slip dress and layering simple styles that don’t add bulk. When deciding what style of pants to wear under a dress, she takes into account the length and silhouette of the dress.
An outfit where two worlds collide is always much more interesting
Stuart Walford
“For a baggier pant I would look at those mini doll or empire dresses,” says Mutabazi. “These have some volume in the skirt and tuck you in below the bust, which is perfect for defining your shape while balancing out the wider leg.”
Or she’ll style a long shirt dress over a column or palazzo pant. “Wear it like a ‘shirt jacket’ with the bottom button undone to show off your warmest knit and pants layered underneath,” says Mutabazi.
Perhaps the simplest way to make a summer dress suitable for winter is to wear it over tights. “[They are] an easy way to add warmth and a hint of color and texture to your look,” she says. “Red tights are everywhere, but I thought they were too bright to pair with this outfit [above] so I laid blue fish nets on them.”
‘Feminine silhouette style with masculine layers’
For Melbourne stylist and creative consultant Stuart Walford, styling a summer dress so it’s warm enough for winter is an opportunity to play with the unexpected.
“There are always lots of interesting outfits where two worlds collide; hard and soft, fem and mask, or clashing prints,” he says. “The crossover between masculine and feminine energies really fascinates me, so I often look at ways I can style a feminine silhouette with more masculine layers.”
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When building a winter outfit around a summer dress, he recommends layering a loose T-shirt under something strappy. “It could be an oversized band T-shirt worn under a delicate suit, or a well-tailored blazer over any dress that always looks great,” he says.
Walford says getting creative with accessories can help balance the layers and proportions of an outfit. “If your suit falls shorter than your coat, you may need to look at balancing the proportions with tall boots, or adding socks to your sneakers,” he says.
‘Be practical first and go from there’
Charlotte Agnew’s first tip when styling a summer dress for cooler weather is to make sure you’re warm. “Don’t think too hard,” says the Paris-based stylist. “Be practical first and then go from there.”
When she’s picking an outfit, she says to “keep it to life” so she doesn’t look messy. Instead of adding something like a blazer to a summer dress, she suggests layering coats or jackets made from similar fabrics – think a trench over a cotton dress, or a cashmere coat over a wool dress. Then add depth by playing with accessories like shoes and bags.
“Figure out what works for you and then have fun with variations of that,” says Agnew. “You will always feel welcome and comfortable.”
