How Japan, the most polite country in the world, lost its patience with tourists

It is perhaps one of Japan’s most iconic sights: the triangular form of Mount Fuji rising into the blue sky, its snow-capped peak clearly visible on the still waters of a nearby lake.

This image is captured with measured simplicity in a 19th century woodblock print by Katsushika Hokusai, the artist responsible for the iconic “36 Views of Mount Fuji” series.

Number 35 represents Lake Kawaguchi, a setting as scenic as it is endless. Almost two centuries later, it is still a magnet for Mount Fuji fans – and now, a growing problem for the local communities overwhelmed by the number of tourists.

And last week, one lake town – Fujikawaguchiko – reached boiling point, hitting headlines around the world to begin erecting a massive black barrier to hide its popular viewing spot. The decision followed a litany of complaints from locals, from tourists littering and parking illegally to reports of visitors climbing nearby rooftops in search of the perfect shot.

Tourists pictured behind the metal bars of the barrier in Fujikawaguchiko.  The black curtain will be installed in the second half of May

Tourists pictured behind the metal bars of the barrier in Fujikawaguchiko. The black curtain will be installed in the second half of May – Shutterstock

The screen may sound like a big deal – especially in a country known for its politeness and stoicism – but this is not an isolated incident. Open post-pandemic borders combined with a weak yen are fueling record highs for inbound tourism, with monthly overseas visitors rising to 3 million in March for the first time. Japan is teeming with tourists like never before, and for hard-pressed local residents, patience is wearing thin.

As a result, there are plenty of initiatives sweeping Japan to try to combat the growing challenges – and deep-rooted cultural sensitivities – of overtourism.

Local government officials in the Mount Fuji region, for example, recently announced plans to introduce a new mandatory fee of 2,000 yen to climb the peak. Tourists will have to pay the fee from the start of this year’s climbing season on July 1, and the daily number will also be limited to 4,000.

Another aspect of over-tourism is the ancient capital Kyoto, which has introduced increasingly desperate measures to limit over-tourism on its historic streets in recent months.

Among his most notable measures is the recent closure of parts of Gion, the historic geisha district, due to increasing incidents of “badly behaved” tourists pulling on geisha kimonos and crowding them for photo.

Kyoto's historic geisha district recently imposed no-tourist zones after reports of harassment of performersKyoto's historic geisha district recently imposed no-tourist zones after reports of harassment of performers

Kyoto’s historic geisha district recently imposed no-tourist zones after reports of harassment of performers – Akio Kon

Another key issue is overcrowding on Kyoto’s local buses – city officials also announced plans in March to introduce exclusive buses to tourist attractions, to reduce pressure on overused local routes.

Sara Aiko, director and founder of Curated Kyoto, a luxury travel curation company based in Kyoto, explains: “When tourism starts interfering with residents’ daily routines and saturating peaceful spots like temples and shrines, it’s not comfortable. As global citizens, we’re all for sharing our beautiful cities, but when your peaceful bus journey to the supermarket becomes a struggle, or your favorite bar is overrun by crowds, locals get frustrated, that creates tension.”

She says: “Of course, this is no fun for tourists either. I want visitors to experience the best of Kyoto without feeling like they are just part of a mass movement. There are magical, quiet corners of Kyoto still waiting to be explored, but the problem lies with the infrastructure and the lack of regulation on the number of visitors.”

Niseko on Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido – a winter sports destination increasingly popular thanks to its famous white powder – now booms during the winter months and is struggling to keep up.

Snowboarders in Niseko, JapanSnowboarders in Niseko, Japan

Snowboarders in Niseko, Japan. The choice of accommodation fees will increase from next November, with the aim of reducing numbers – RF Minute

As a result, the resort will start charging visitors up to 2,000 yen per night for accommodation from next November – just in time for next winter’s skiing and snowboarding season – in hopes of reducing numbers.

Further south in Hiroshima, the city of Hatsukaichi recently introduced a ¥100 entrance fee to protect the iconic Itsukushima shrine on Miyajima island, a Unesco-listed site known for its red Torii gate surrounded by the sea. at high tide.

The city of Hatsukaichi recently introduced an entrance fee to help protect Itsukushima shrine on the island of MiyajimaThe city of Hatsukaichi recently introduced an entrance fee to help protect Itsukushima shrine on the island of Miyajima

The city of Hatsukaichi recently introduced an entrance fee to help protect Itsukushima shrine on the island of Miyajima – Unreleased Image Bank

‘Avoid the algorithm’

The Japanese government is also exploring ways to minimize the impact of overtourism on the country’s hard-pressed pockets – by launching a project aimed at diverting tourists from the so-called Golden Triangle tourist trail of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

Instead, Japan is promoting 11 so-called “model” destinations to help tourists explore lesser-known (and emptier) spots around the country – including exploring on samurai culture in Hokuriku; nature activities in Nasu, Tochigi; the Nagano and Gifu Alps; Kagoshima volcanoes and eastern Hokkaido national parks.

For tourists who want to visit Japan – but also avoid the crowds and reduce pressure on local communities – Charles Spreckley, founder of People Make Places, a travel design firm based in Japan, has some advice.

“Avoid the algorithm and create your own adventure,” he says. “Ignore Google reviews and other tourist portals. The nice thing about Japan is because it’s so safe, you can literally pick a destination and start walking and you’ll make so many discoveries along the way.”

But will Japan’s increasingly extreme measures have the desired effect? The country’s popularity with foreign visitors seems to be only increasing, and with locals worried about preserving their beautiful, ancient – ​​and fragile – culture, trouble may yet lie ahead.

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