by Call them flip-flops, call them thongs – the pole-toe sandal is the staple of split shoes, Crocs, Uggs and ‘daddy’ trainers have long gone before it.
Everyone will be familiar with the sight of a non-chamber foot on a molded foam base, held together by a pair of plastic or nylon straps. They usually appear at the first sight of the sun. They may be comfortable, and transcend age and gender – but fashion, they are not.
And yet, if you love the sleek, expensive aesthetic sold by designer labels like Toteme, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row, maybe it’s time you got to know the flip-flop. This year, they are very much back in style, and not only for beach holidays, but for the city, for work, for weddings and parties. They’ve been rebranded – when done right, they’re now seen as a minimalist shoe choice.
They can also be expensive. Former Céline creative director Phoebe Philo’s latest product includes a pair of 75mm wedges with slim suede straps. The price? £750. That’s a bargain compared to The Row’s best-selling Ginza flip-flop flats, which sell for £960 (M&S do a great recommendation for £35). However, you can expect to see these luxe thongs at smart spots everywhere this summer, from the pool at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc to the Serpentine Summer Party.
“I love to pair mine with an elegant evening dress, or a cotton shirt and tailored trousers for day,” says Christina Martini, co-founder of Ancient Greek Sandals, which sells elegant leather styles for men, women and children. “I think you have to balance out their innate cuteness by dressing up a bit.”
The national retailer’s investment in a particular trend is a strong sign that it is growing, and for M&S, flip-flops are part of a wider offering that is strong on stylish flats, says Lisa Illis, head of womenswear design : “It’s a key. a footwear trend that we’ve bought into with confidence and one that we know is important to our customers… They really come into their own during the summer season, providing a versatile high-low styling option for a relaxed holiday or a more elevated look .”
Even flip-flop specialists have seen an increase: “In the first quarter of 2024, we saw a 25 percent growth in traffic and a 27 percent increase in revenue in our e-commerce compared to the same period last year,” he says. Harm van de Camp, president of Alpargatas Europe at Havaianas, while OluKai’s sales of its classic Ohana sandal are up 41 percent year-on-year, and its Honu sandal is up 34 percent.
This is one of the most accessible trends of the summer – and I mean a trend in the loosest sense, because they never Seriously gone, did they? They’re comfortable, and can be easily found on the high street, so there’s no need to pay hundreds of pounds for a pair.
All you have to do is consider when you’re most likely to wear them, so you can find the pair that best suits your lifestyle, and stick to these simple guidelines…
The rules
Get a pedicure
This is non-negotiable, for men and women. There’s nowhere to hide with a flip-flop, and a roomless leg is the kiss of death for summer fashion, no matter how elegant your outfit. At the very least, a basic pedicure will keep your feet in good health.
Make them sleek and chic
They should look like an aesthetically pleasing choice of footwear, not an orthopedic hiking sandal. Choose suede or leather if you plan to wear them in a work or social context, stick to neutral colors, and avoid anything with fussy logos or patterns.
Own hand with plaster
No footwear should hurt your feet, but a little irritation from a new shoe is inevitable. Recognize it early and stick a fabric plaster (which won’t actually budge) to the area as soon as possible if you think a blister might form – prevention is better than cure, and the scratching should go away after a few wears.
Know when to part ways
We’ve all worn fancy shoes to death, but this is a polished look, and there’s a point where a pair of flip flops just doesn’t look attractive anymore. By that stage of decay, a beaten shoe probably won’t be good for your foot health or posture, either. Remember, if you invest in a quality pair of sandals in the first place, you will find that they last longer than a budget pair.
What to buy
In the city
If you plan to wear your sandals in a more formal context than the beach, care is necessary. Rubber flip flops are great, but not for the office. Instead, look for a leather pair. A wider top strap, or in the case of women’s sandals, a small heel, can also lend a sophisticated edge.
Women: Mera leather sandal, £160, Sandals of Ancient Greece ancient-greek-sandals.com; Men: Mr P Fede suede sandals, £195, Mr. Porter mporter.com
On holiday
If you want the practicality of a pair of waterproof flip-flops, without sacrificing style, keep it simple. The new Havaianas Una Açai style has a knot detail, which looks smart and nods to the look of Miu Miu’s Riviere sandals.
Women: Úna Açai sandal, £45, Havaianas havaianas-store.com; Men: Tuahine waterproof sandals, £105, OluKai olukai.co.uk
To a party
Men should be careful here, as a thong sandal will only really feel good in a beach setting or in a swelteringly hot setting. Wear them in the right context though, and it will look great with a linen suit. These ladies’ sandals, dear Frances, have a low heel that’s perfect for dancing the night away.
Women: Sandal Flis an Farraigh, £450, Dear Frances daorfrances.com; Men: Claremont leather sandal, £125, Russell & Bromley russellandbromley.com
