by Winter in Palma de Mallorca is a relative concept. On a December evening, the sunlight gives a golden glow to the facade of this historic city’s magnificent cathedral. Above, the sky is as clear and blue as if this were the height of summer. If I had strolled along these 16th century walls and bastions a few months ago, I would have been among hundreds of tourists. But today it’s just locals in a pair of shorts wearing coats, scarves and snarky expressions. Winter and the attitude to it? Relative indeed.
An island strongly associated with sun, sea and sand, Mallorca has been a summer staple since the tourism boom of the 1960s. Although its busy beach resorts are still the island’s biggest draw, there is now a growing awareness of Mallorca’s off-season appeal – and much of the attention is on Palma. I have visited the city frequently over the past 20 years, and have watched it transform from a sleepy province to a credible city break full of history, shopping, culture, art and boutique hotels in heritage buildings.
Although Palma appeals all year round, winter visits are particularly special. They are also more in demand. According to the Fomento del Turismo, the island’s tourism board, 13 percent more flights are operating during the winter this year than last year, and 85 percent of Palma’s hotels – more than ever before – are booked. open during the season.
Among those welcoming winter guests is Hotel Calatrava: a well-established town retreat atop the city walls. The beautiful rooftop terrace seemed like the perfect place to end my walk. I met Maria Martinez, the hotel’s sales director, who joined me for a cafe with a panoramic view that takes in the Bay of Palma, the cathedral and the foothills of the Tramuntana mountains.
“All of our city hotels are staying open this season,” she tells me, “and at steeper rates than in the summer. As well as being cheaper, our winters are generally mild and sunny, so the weather is perfect for sightseeing. There are festivals and markets in the villages, towns and here in Palma; and without the summer crowds, the island feels the most authentic. For me, it is the best time to visit.”
Nobis Hotel Palma, which opened in November in a former Moorish palace, has a similarly positive vibe across town. As one of Palma’s oldest buildings, it is full of sweeping arches and has weathered earthquakes, fires and more than 1,000 years of restoration.
Perhaps its best asset is the bar, which wouldn’t look out of place in any European capital. Despite a 9m high ceiling, it’s extremely cozy and already popular for after-work cocktails when the evening temperatures discourage al fresco gatherings.
Hammam al Andalus, an authentic Moroccan-style spa and bath just outside the old town (palma.hammamalandalus.com) is ideal for cooler days. With steam pools and a sauna in a marble-lined space, mostly candlelit, it is perfect for occasions when the sunlight is not visible. I easily lost an hour there before I was massaged on a marble slab, after which I returned to the old town to visit the original (and remarkably intact) Arab Baths, which date from the 10th century Islamic occupation .
Elsewhere, I entered churches and chapels decorated in varying degrees of opulence before stumbling upon more contemporary charm in boutiques such as Arquinesia, whose fragrances (all locally inspired and produced) are reverently displayed in museum style. . The shop is hidden behind the central avenue Passeig des Born, whose majestic plane trees hover beneath thousands of festive fairies.
But rather than lending itself to shopping and sightseeing, winter in Mallorca is a time to get outdoors. In particular, the absence of the scorching summer heat makes the Tramuntana mountains come into their own. From Palma, I took the historic, wood-panelled train out of the city and on through almond and olive orchards towards the peaks. The hour-long journey went up through tunnels and mountain passes to cross the massif, and with that we swept down to the elegant town of Sóller.
From Sóller station, it’s a two-minute walk to Meem Townhouse: one of 10 percent of the hotels outside Palma operating this winter. “There are only two properties open in Sóller,” explains owner Jessica Bosch as she shows me to my room: a gorgeous space, white, design-friendly and almost Cycladic in its simplicity. “Tourism here has always been seasonal, and attitudes change slowly, but gradually more businesses are expanding operations to cater to cyclists and winter cyclists.”
One thing in Jessica’s favor is that Meem Townhouse is a slick operation that doesn’t need more than a skeleton staff to keep things running smoothly. After a breakfast of orange juice and avocados grown in Sóller, I chat with Eduard Casajuana, a local hiking guide, as we walk from Sóller to Deià along the GR221: a long-distance path called the Bealach na Cloiche Thirim more romantic.
Polished from centuries of use, the cobblestones of the route speak of their antiquity. “This cami de ferradura [mule trail] since the time of the Arabs,” Eduard informs me as we walk through the scrub and pine forest with the new season’s growth. “These routes were the main roads of Mallorca until the roads came in the mid-1800s.”
Point-to-point walks are possible through this stretch of mountains thanks to reliable buses connecting the various villages. Without the need to walk back, we take our time along the path, stopping to see sea views and watch farmers shaking the branches of their olive trees to harvest this year’s crop.
Before reaching Deià, we make a detour to visit the small town of Llucalcari, then continue along a coastal path that Eduard considers the most beautiful in Mallorca. The route leads to Cala Deià, where my favorite chiringuito (beach bar) – now closed for the season – is perched on a cliff overlooking the bay. Unfortunately, winter visits do not lend themselves to seaside snacks or refreshing swims. But that’s okay, I think to myself. For that reason, I will just come back in the summer.
Fundamentals
How to get there
British Airways (ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), Jet2 (jet2.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com) fly direct to Palma from London, Liverpool, Bristol and Manchester from £30 return. Central Palma is a 15 minute ride from the airport.
Where to stay
Calatrava Hotel (00 34 971 72 81 10; calatravahotel.com) Rooms from £241 per night B&B; Hotel Nobis Palma (00 34 871 55 58 00; nobishotel.es) from £258; and Meem Townhouse (00 34 616 07 29 63; meemtownhouse.com) from £137.
What to do
Private half-day walks for two with Eduardo Casajuana cost from £241 (falcodelareina.com).
