by Nestled serenely just outside the dusty chaos of Marrakech, Amanjena is an orange flower-scented mirage.
The colors become quieter, the birds become sharper and the pace is glacially enjoyable. Dive in and out of the souks and snake charmers of the city as you wish, knowing that an oasis awaits. That’s not to say you can’t party – if you’ve got the money. The night before we arrived the resort was bought out for a money-is-no-matter wedding. The entertainment? Well, 50 Cent provided that. David Beckham famously hired him for his 40th birthday.
Where?
Twenty minutes from both the airport and the medina. Taxis will cost 200 dirhams (about £15) each way. Amanjena is in very good company with Mandarin Oriental across the road. Anyone who has been to Marrakech before will tell you how important it is to be able to get away from the dirty, polluted city. On clear days the snow-capped Atlas mountains rise in the background.
Style
Designed by Ed Tuttle, the beloved architect of the Aman group (who created the vision for another of their great dams, Amanbagh in Rajasthan), Amanjena is a pink Moorish palace. With marble columns, countless smooth reflection pools and washed clay walls, the scent of orange blossoms and jasmine fills the air. Possibly the best hotel I have ever stayed in.
You could hear a pin drop at the main pool which is in the middle of the ‘classroom’, between the spa, the gym and the Japanese restaurant (the view from the breakfast is also excellent).
Set in 13 acres, facilities are close and yet in such a way that you often feel like the only guest in the hotel – or the queen of your own palace.
Which room?
Rooms? Pah! They are called Aman Pavilions and once you have stayed in Aman you are pretty much spoiled for life. Book Pavilions Piscine for an extra-large terrace, a majestic gazebo, sun loungers (with sun hats handy) and a private pool. We looked over the lush Amelkis golf club adjoining with views of the Atlas Mountains.
A mini palace, the bedroom has a large vaulted ceiling with dark wood, Berber rugs, the most exquisite chaise lounge and at the center: a heavenly king-size bed. His and her bathrooms are spacious, dusky pink and peaceful, complete with leather Berber slippers and traditional hooded caps. There is an open fire that the team will light in the cooler evenings.
We spent a lot of time reading and lounging on our private terrace and didn’t hear a peep — except for the sound of the bell when room service brought another glass of chilled rosé.
Food & drink
The a la carte breakfast served by the pool is exceptional. Choose a freshly squeezed juice, smoothie or immune-boosting shot for an early morning health kick before tucking into plates of anything from chilled orange blossom yoghurt with dates to traditional Moroccan pancakes (msemen) served with honey and argan oil, as well like the usual Western suspects. There is an additional charge to have food delivered to your room.
You can have dinner at the Japanese restaurant, Nama, which serves izakaya-style shared plates or the most popular restaurant (at least on our visit) which is an interesting hybrid of Moroccan and Italian. Booths like the candles are hidden under scalloped arches in front of the olive trees in the center and the local gentlemen musicians who stroll discreetly. A romantic place, there was more than one table spread with hundreds of pounds worth of red rose petals when we were there.
Don’t leave a pre-dinner drink in the cozy bar where they light a fire on cooler nights or at one of the tables by the beautiful reflection pool with only the singing cicadas for company. People who don’t drink should know that they make excellent liars.
extra curricular
Aman makes very good spas. The space at Amanjena is small but perfectly formed with expert therapists and hamman. The more active could take advantage of the resort’s free bikes, play golf at the nearby 27 holes or take in a game of clay court tennis. The resort also has a range of activities to book, from dining tours to the Afagay desert to hot air balloon rides – always a magical experience.
Marrakech is 20 minutes away with its shopping, dining (I always make a beeline to El Fenn for lunch on the sun roof) and people watching.
A word about the service, which is faultless. Careful but not crying, you feel alone in the resort and yet when you need someone they see before the thought even comes. My sister, who I was traveling with, broke a button on a dress and within minutes a helpful staff member came to our Pavilion to sew it back on. And there is a free laundry service which I wish more hotels would offer. There’s nothing like returning home to London with a case full of freshly laundered clothes.
He prefers…
Couples – whether lovers or friends. This is a very quiet resort perfect for a burst of spring or autumn sun.
Details
cazenove+loyd, the curators of luxury travel, can create the perfect custom tour to suit your needs. A seven-night stay in Morocco, including four nights in Amanjena, return transfers and city tours costs from £5,000 (excluding international flights).
For inspiration or to request a bespoke jetting itinerary curated by one of cazenove+loyd’s Destination Experts visit cazloyd.com or call 020 7384 2332
