If you’ve ever doubted the power hormones can have on your skin, you won’t when you’re pregnant. Some women may experience the radiant glow synonymous with carrying a baby, and find that any skin concerns improve due to hormonal changes “and a dampened immune system”, consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips tells us. “However, some women can develop new skin concerns during pregnancy or experience an exacerbation of existing conditions,” he says – from adult acne to higher sensitivity and ‘pregnancy mask’ hyperpigmentation.
“Common concerns I see in pregnant women are acne, melasma, rosacea and flare-ups of existing eczema or psoriasis,” confirms Dr. Phillips. “In addition, pregnant women often come for mole evaluations. This is because moles can become darker and larger during pregnancy, which can be rare. There is a group of rare rashes itchy and there is also blistering that occurs exclusively during pregnancy which I see once or twice a year.”
To help you navigate the minefield that pregnancy presents, here’s an overview of what to expect and what can happen to your skin while you’re breastfeeding – and how best to treat it with products and treatments .
The problem: Hyperpigmentation and melasma
In addition to increased sensitivity to sunlight, you can experience a rise in hormones that stimulate pigmentation when you are pregnant and these can contribute to melasma, which “appears as a light brown pigment in a mask-like distribution that affects the cheeks, temples, forehead and upper lip” explains Dr Phillips. It’s usually genetic and often goes away after pregnancy, but, as skin care expert Debbie Thomas notes, it’s worth remembering that “many pregnancy-related hormones are still elevated during breastfeeding, and it can take six to nine months to settle after you stop. feeding”. However, she says that pregnancy-induced melasma “could also be a longer-term condition”.
The products used: It is extremely important to be sun safe during pregnancy, and wear sunscreen with a high factor UVB protection (SPF50) and UVA protection. Skin expert Dr Sam Bunting recommends a mineral version, explaining: “I like sunscreens that use a physical blocker zinc oxide to treat melasma, so UV is deflected away from the skin like a mirror.” Try the Ultra Violette Fragrance Free Mineral Mattifying Skin Screen SPF50, a 100 percent mineral filter that doesn’t leave an oily film or chalky finish.
“Serums and creams containing vitamin C will reduce pigmentation and lighten the excess,” says Dr Phillips. “Azelaic acid and niacinamide will also inhibit melanin production, and can improve the appearance of melasma during pregnancy.”
Studies also show that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) may be beneficial in treating hyperpigmentation, and are generally considered safe for use during pregnancy – depending on your skin’s sensitivity levels (always patch test a small area of skin before use). Try weekly exfoliation with a product like the Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner which contains lactic acid, a gentle but effective AHA.
The problem: Hormonal acne
With racing hormones, increased oil secretion, and anxiety thrown into the mix, many women experience breakouts during pregnancy, especially around the chin, jawline and cheeks.
The products used: While you definitely want to stay away from traditional acne remedies that contain retinol during pregnancy, there are other active ingredients that you can use. “When managing acne during pregnancy, cleansers and serums containing less than 2% salicylic acid can be used to unblock pores, improve texture and treat whiteheads and blackheads,” asserts Dr. Phillips. “Niacinamide and azelaic acid have anti-inflammatory properties and can help fight pimples and nodules.”
The problem: Sensitivity and dry skin conditions
Hormonal changes during pregnancy can increase any skin sensitivities and you may not only be more sensitive to the sun, but to certain products that you used to love. Thomas agrees: “One of the things I notice from my expectant clients is that their skin is more reactive even to things it would normally absorb easily.”
Abigail James, London facialist and author of the beauty bible Love Your Skin, says “this is thought to be our body’s way of protecting itself and the fetus from infection and disease”. As with acne, above, skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea may also worsen.
The products used: First of all, make sure your cleanser is gentle and irritant-free (Dr Sam’s Flawless Cleanser is great), and in general, avoid all products with fragrances that can trigger inflammation, and choose a mineral SPF broad spectrum.
“Dry skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis can be managed by using moisturisers combined with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and urea, and emollients such as ceramides and shea butter, to repair and replenish the skin barrier ,” says Dr. Phillips. Try the CeraVe Moisturizing Face Lotion which contains ceramides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
“Steroid creams and ointments can be used safely under the supervision of a dermatologist or GP to treat flare-ups.”
The problem: Rosacea or increased redness
When you are pregnant, the volume of blood in your body can almost double, which often means that the ‘healthy tissue’ becomes red. Claire Barret, skin care expert at mother and baby range Bloom and Blossom says “this really affects the tiny blood vessels in the face, and many women will experience hot flushes and increased redness in their skin” . The heat as well as increased sensitivity can also exasperate rosacea if you are already suffering.
The products used: To manage hot flashes, treat yourself to a refreshing, fragrance-free facial mist that hydrates the skin while cooling redness. Many sensitive skin care brands, such as Bioderma, Ren, Dr.Jart+ and Clinique, have anti-redness skincare ranges which will help regulate redness. “For rosacea, I would recommend gentle skin care,” asserts Dr. Phillips. “Niacinamide can reduce redness, pimples and will also improve the skin barrier, and azelaic acid can also be used to treat redness and blemishes.”
Skin care ingredients to avoid
There are various ingredients – both natural and synthetic – that are recommended during pregnancy:
-Retinol. A number of studies have linked products containing retinol to birth defects and babies and are therefore best avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding. James says another reason to avoid retinol-based products is because they speed up cell turnover, “they make the skin much more prone to sun damage and pigmentation”.
-Phthalates/formaldehyde/toluene. Watch out for these chemicals in perfumes and nail polishes. Although it is currently inconclusive, “research is being done to evaluate a possible link to birth defects,” says James. Look at nail polish brands like Nailberry which are supposed to be “12 chemical free”.
-Ammonia. Found in some hair dyes, James says it has “carcinogenic properties, so steer clear”. Your colorist will be able to advise you on ammonia-free options and whether it is safe to color your hair once you are past the first trimester of pregnancy.
-Dihydroxyacetone by spray tans. This is the non-toxic active ingredient in self-tanning products that doesn’t go past the outer layer of the skin and isn’t absorbed into the body, so you don’t have to avoid it completely. However, the effects of inhalation are unknown, so you may want to avoid spray tanning while pregnant.
-Certain essential oils. “There are some essential oils that should be used carefully during pregnancy,” advises Dr. Meder. “The agents they contain have a small molecular weight and high volatility, so they can affect the body as a whole. Many essential oils increase the sensitivity of the skin to UV, which is not great considering the risk of pigmentation higher during pregnancy.” James lists basil, rosemary, juniper berry, jasmine, cypress and blue chamomile as essential oils to avoid due to their ability to stimulate overstimulation and menstruation. Dr. Meder also says, “camphor, peppermint extract, and mint oil are not recommended during pregnancy, especially for those late in pregnancy or those at increased risk of miscarriage.”
Facial treatment and procedures during pregnancy
As you might imagine, cosmetic ‘enhancements’ are advised to be avoided when expecting or trying to conceive. In our guide to cosmetic procedures during pregnancy, aesthetic doctor Dr. toxin in pregnant women in case something happens to the baby”. The same applies to dermal fillers; “There is always a risk with any medical intervention,” he says. And even non-injectable treatments such as deep peels are possible and deep microneedling is also a risk.
“We can do gentle microneedling safely,” says Dr Zoya Awan, medical director of Secret Aesthetics found within Harvey Nichols, Birmingham, “but I wouldn’t do this treatment if the woman has certain pregnancy-related medical conditions patient – so it basically is. it is very much on a case-by-case basis that I decide whether or not to offer microneedling and how deep or intense I will go with the treatment”.
While most facial laser treatments are also recommended, Thomas – an aesthetic laser expert – says Byonik, a pulse-stimulated laser treatment, is safe and very beneficial. “It’s pain free, there’s no down time and it’s safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding,” she confirms. “It maximizes the skin’s regenerative capacity and slows down the cellular aging process and reduces inflammation associated with acne, rosacea and sensitivity.
There are many facials suitable for pregnancy, too. Dr Sindhu Siddiqi from London’s No Filter Clinic says their “Pregnancy Fire and Ice Facial is safe and great for tackling pigmentation, dull skin, acne, acne scars and fine lines.” Meanwhile, at Secret Aesthetics in Birmingham “we can create custom facials aimed at problem skin that often incorporate a Hydrafacial with pregnancy-safe ingredients tailored to a person’s bottom line concerns and goals,” says Dr Awan . “But I always emphasize that these work synergistically with other skin habits. In general, no facial treatment will magically change your skin. This comes from consistency and patience as part of a regimen with the right skin care in home too.”
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