by Glee was written all over Mladen’s face, although much of it was hidden by a snowsuit and helmet, as he pulled the perspex car down, shielding it from the horizontal snowfall. “Would you like to try some powder, Mike?,” asked my instructor.
A thick blanket of snow fell on Kiroro overnight, turning the forested hills and mountains in this corner of Hokkaido into winter wonders. A meter of the white stuff would come in 24 hours, and it was only in the middle of December. Due to its proximity to the Sea of Japan, Kiroro averages 21 meters of snow at the 1,180m peak. That’s more than seven times the average in much of the French Alps.
Japan’s northern island is heaven on earth for skiers who want unspoiled powder conditions. And it can certainly also lay claim to being the friendliest place to ski in the world. Where else is it customary for ski lift attendants – often quite surly – to greet you with a wide smile and hello (“konnichiwa”) when you get off, and thank you (“arigato gozaimasu”) when you arrive on the table.
The day before, under Mladen’s expert tutelage, the snow conditions — a classic “fresh layer on a solid base” — were perfect for learning long carving turns at speed and short bunny hop-style turns on steeper sections over the resort’s 23 runs . Today was wild in comparison. I struggled to keep control of my skis in the thick powder that would give way to the smoother sections before switching up again. Progress was much slower as we battled -15C temperatures and horizontal snowfall. Despite the rare face plant, I had a blast.
As we took our final lift ride back to the Club Med Kiroro Grand, Mladen nearly knocked another skier against his pole as he tried to give us one final instruction on turning. His boundless enthusiasm was contagious and just what I needed to improve my technique.
Within minutes, I was back in the Kiroro Grand’s ski room, locking up my gear before going for a long soak in the hotel’s onsen. Japan has thousands of traditional hot spring baths and Club Med Kiroro has its own, including open air pools. There are separate swimming areas for men and women and it is customary not to wear any clothing. It’s a very relaxing après-ski ritual that set me up perfectly for the traditional — for us Europeans — apres-ski in the hotel bar, swapping stories from the slopes with a beer, mulled wine or cocktail while look at the snow falling down. out.
The main bar, lounge and entertainment area is the beating heart of the Kiroro Grand. During the day, it’s the perfect place to stretch your legs out on the sofa with a good book during a break from skiing. In the evening, various shows are held during the week that attract people of all ages – magicians, comedians, singers, DJs, gymnasts, often with Club Med staff – known as “generous organizers” – who do their best to make sure you feel welcome and welcome. everything as easy as possible for guests.
“Easy” is central to Club Med’s offer. Any parent of young children knows how difficult it is to get what everyone really wants from a holiday: rest and relaxation. Club Med is focused on making sure adults come out with that. Ski lessons are offered for children aged four and up and the kids’ club inside the hotel is a great nursery for children aged two and over, with soft play, games, books and plenty more to keep children busy.
In terms of food, the Kiroro Grand’s expert team of chefs prepares a wide range of options which – for an all-inclusive family – are of an extremely high standard. Most of your time will be spent in Yoichi, the main buffet restaurant, which offers a mix of Asian and Western meals. Asian options include build-your-own ramen, sashimi and katsu curry to giant Hokkaido crab and delectable dim sum, and a wide selection of salads – the beetroot carpaccio with goat cheese and spring onion is delicious – and friendly to a child. European staples like pizza and pasta are also available.
The restaurant is divided into four dining areas, which in addition to the wide selection of food means that you are less likely to feel overwhelmed towards the end of the holiday that usually comes with all-inclusive resorts. Your wristband also gets you access to specialty Asian eatery The Ogon, which specializes in hotpots, and, for an extra cost, you can also eat at The Kaen yakiniku (grilled meat) and Ebisi sushi restaurants.
The Kiroro Grand is aptly named. The 281 rooms are spread over 11 floors that look down on a cavernous atrium. The rooms feature Club Med’s signature interior – pastel shade sofas and carpets, oak panelling, beautiful prints. The hotel was originally built by Yamaha and there are echoes of its earlier incarnation in the pianos dotted around the property, and the artful sheet music details on the lift doors. It’s also unmistakably Japanese (hello, heated toilet seats and vending machines!). Some rooms are in the traditional tatami style.
As tempting as it is to stay within the warm and fuzzy embrace of the resort, spending an evening in nearby Otaru is well worth it. The historic coastal city is famous for its beautiful canal, which can be enjoyed on boat cruises, as well as being a center for glass making. A ten minute walk from the canal and its abundance of craft shops and museums is the Sankaku market. It feels like entering another world as you step out of the quiet street into the market with its bustling seafood stalls and queues of locals waiting to eat at small sashimi restaurants.
And despite Japan’s reputation as an expensive destination for UK travellers, a favorable exchange rate means you can eat a delicious lunch washed down with a beer or a bottle of sake for less than £20.
The opportunity to experience Japan’s unique culture, with its incredible cuisine and unparalleled hospitality, makes for a longer break, split between the snowy mountains of Hokkaido and a week visiting Tokyo and perhaps one or two other great cities of Japan, such as Kyoto, Nara and Yokohama, a dream trip for winter sports fans, despite the long-haul flight.
One guaranteed powder snow, as well as unforgettable memories.
Details
A seven-night all-inclusive stay at Club Med Kiroro Grand from £1,979 per adult (based on double occupancy) excluding flights, or from £4,186 per adult including return flights from Heathrow and transfers. Price based on departure date 24 March 2024. Book now at clubmed.co.uk or call 03453676767
Five more exotic ski destinations
Morocco
At 3,268 meters high, Oukaimeden looks like it should be in the Atlas Mountains of the French Alps. However, this ski area only has two lifts, serving some of the most beautiful ski terrain in the world. The souks of Marrakech are less than two hours drive away.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
When my instructor Mladen learned to ski. The country offers 141 kilometers of slopes across 22 different locations. Among them is Jahorina, just 17 miles from Sarajevo. The 1,900 meter mountain in the Diarnic Alps hosted the women’s alpine competitions in the 1984 Winter Olympics. It’s also one of the cheapest ski resorts in Europe — expect to pay around £1 for a beer.
Argentina
Deep in the heart of Tierra del Fuego, the quality of the snow at Cerro Castor – the southernmost ski resort in Latin America – is so good that some pro-Europeans choose to do their summer training here. With 120km of ski runs, the resort has a lifting capacity of 35,000 skiers per hour and has stunning views of the Nahuei Huapi lake.
South Africa
Tiffindell, in the Drakensberg mountains, is one of two ski resorts in southern Africa (the other is in nearby Lesotho). It was once ranked 19th in CNN’s top 100 ski slopes in the world.
Cyprus
Believe it or not, this summer vacation hotspot also caters to winter sports fans. The 2,000-metre Mount Olympus in the Troodos range features four kilometers of pistes, although the challenging North Face ski area has hosted several international competitions.
