by I never imagined a polar bear swooping meters above my head. In the wild it would have been impossible – I wouldn’t have lived to share the story. But within the confines of Winnipeg’s Assiniboine Park Zoo in Canada, the apex predator can be seen swimming daily through a water tunnel in the Journey to Churchill exhibit.
The facility is proud to provide a home for orphans and sea bears outside of rehabilitation, found wandering through the Canadian Arctic border town of Churchill on the edge of Hudson Bay. But despite good intentions, solid scientific arguments and efforts to keep the environment as natural as possible, he still felt uncomfortable.
From zoos and aquariums to circus shows and pet farms, more and more animals are viewed as exploitation rather than entertainment. Gentlemen’s unions are an embarrassment to the past.
When SeaWorld orca Tilikum carried his trainer’s troubled body to a viewing window, a scandal sparked a 2013 documentary. Black Fish, changed public opinion on marine parks forever. 10 years later, the ripple effect continues.
Last week, package tour operator easyJet Holidays announced a new animal welfare policy, removing any captive attractions including zoos, marine parks and animal shows from its itineraries. Virgin Holidays already has similar guidelines in place.
Some of the culprits of animal cruelty are obvious: elephant tours in Thailand, swimming with dolphins in Dubai, petting canned, captive-bred lions in South Africa. But the ethics of wildlife tourism are much more nuanced. Drawing a line between right and wrong is not an easy task.
Zoos and sanctuaries, for example, can play a vital role in conserving species and raising public awareness.
“Not all of these experiences are 100 percent negative,” explains Candice Buchan, Head of Rainbow Tours. “Sometimes the education available is valuable, and in some cases these organizations are doing important conservation or research work.”
Sir David Attenborough, supporter of ZSL London Zoo, has a similar opinion.
“I aim for zoos as long as they are scientific, as long as they are selective about what they keep and as long as they keep to the highest possible standards,” he has told reporters in the past.
Various zoological societies and institutions have played an important role in the revival of endangered species. Tanzania’s Grumeti Game Reserve, for example, has acquired black rhinos from the San Diego Zoo and Port Lympne Safari Park in the UK. There is an argument to suggest that the northern white rhinoceros, a species at the center of a pioneering IVF scheme, would have become extinct years ago if only a handful of animals were brought to zoos.
Some tour operators set the bar by distinguishing between activities that change animal behavior.
“Wildlife experiences should happen in the wild – on the animals’ terms,” argues Rob Perkins of Responsible Travel.
But even on icy plateaus and unfenced rolling plains, very few encounters are truly natural. Travel brochures might tempt you to think otherwise, but all animals on safari are conditioned to the sound of engines.
The best example of habituation is mountain gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda. Although conservationists such as Dian Fossey were reluctant to accept tourism, there was no doubt that it had a positive impact: since 1998, the number of species has increased from 620 to 1,063.
“The success of the big birds is vital to the success of the species,” says Amos Wekesa, CEO of East African specialists Great Lakes Safaris. “Local communities need a reason to protect the species that are stealing their crops and stop them from hunting in the forests.”
However, if not handled properly, tourism can be harmful. Over the years, I have witnessed some horrific behavior on game drives in the Masai Mara as vehicles jostle for position, disrupt cheetah hunts, chase leopards and force thousands of wildebeest to change course. A solution is in community-owned containers, where visitor numbers are carefully controlled and stakeholders can benefit financially from wildlife protection on their doorstep.
“In an ideal world, we would want to preserve national parks and the wildlife that goes with them because it is the right thing to do; because we believe we should leave the planet in a better condition than we found it,” says Chris McIntyre, Managing Director for Africa Experts. “However, in the real world, we understand that these areas, and their wildlife, usually have to pay to conserve themselves.”
Camps like Mara’s House In The Wild and Angama Amboseli do a great job of making community central to their story. Asilia and Kicheche are other good safari companies to consider.
When choosing any type of wildlife holiday, Steppes Travel’s Jarrad Kyte recommends three key considerations: community, conservation and code of conduct. Terry Moohan, Head of Africa and the Indian Ocean at cazenove+loyd, also warns tourists to manage their expectations and embrace what nature has to offer.
A window into an animal’s natural world is far more rewarding than forced contact. But it’s important to remember that the concept of pure wilderness is a romantic fantasy when humans affect every inch of our planet. Wildlife tourism of any kind is a compromise – at best.
Five ethical ways to see animals
Musk ox in Norway
Easily accessible by rail or road, Norway’s Dovrefjell National Park is the unlikely setting for an animal from another era in time. Shaggy musk oxen were introduced from Greenland between the 1930s and 1940s and have found a way to survive in the snowy valleys. Join a guided walk to see them from a safe distance or watch from the comfort of the Snohetta Viewpoint, an architectural masterpiece of curved wood and glass.
Do it: There is a day lift from £46. Take the train from Oslo or Trondheim to Oppdal. Visit oppdalsafari.no
Red knots in Norfolk
Observing any number of species is an exciting experience. But mass migration occurs in more places than just Africa. From late summer to early winter, the Wash in Norfolk includes thousands of red knot mudflats, which can be seen from a hide in the RSPB’s Snettisham Reserve. A rising tide forces birds into the sky where they turn in flocks, creating an aerial display known as the Snettisham Spectacular. The RSPB website lists the key dates when this will happen.
Book it: Entrance to the reserve is free, although parking costs £3. Visit rspb.org.uk
Red kites in Scotland
Once the most common bird of prey in Britain, red kites were persecuted and almost wiped out by gamekeepers in the 1900s. They have been reintroduced to central Scotland, with several pairs roosting on the family owned Argaty Estate. In partnership with the RSPB and Scottish Natural Heritage, the couple Lynn and Niall Bowser set up the only official feeding station in the area, where visitors can get a close look at the birds of prey from a hide. The family has two guesthouses within their grounds.
Book it: Three nights are from £375 (sleeping up to six). Day visits from £7. Visit argatyredkites.co.uk
Whales in the Azores
Given the number of marine mammals in our nearby waters, visiting aquariums is not necessary. Sightings of sperm, blue, fin, sei and humpback whales – along with Risso and common dolphins – make the Azores the best cetacean viewing destination in Europe. Help researchers photograph species and collect data on whale-watching trips between March and May when many of the migrating giants pass through.
Book it: Wildlife Worldwide can arrange a six-day trip from £1,595pp, including flights. Visit wildworldwide.com
Gorillas in East Africa
The restoration of Rwanda’s Akagera National Park is a remarkable success story, largely due to the work of the Non-Governmental Parks in Africa. Learn about their anti-poaching measures and efforts to reduce human-wildlife conflict as part of a longer customized tour of the country and neighboring Uganda. Meet the Batwa communities, once forcibly evicted from the forest, in the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, and trek gorillas in the Bwindi Immortal Forest.
Book it: A 10-night trip costs from £7,365, including flights. Various activities. Visit rainbowtours.co.uk
