by Skeptical minds would say it’s a marketing ploy to sell even more products to anxious consumers searching for perfect skin. But there is a practical explanation for the current rise of “soft” skin care products. It is one of the dermatologists to report since the pandemic, when the poor time among us had a rare opportunity to pamper ourselves, which led to a trend of laying down powerful products.
Consultant dermatologist Emma Craythorne says DIY skincare can be problematic. “There has been a lot of interest in skin health but because of this people are overusing active ingredients without a proper skin assessment and prescribed routine. “
That’s not to say we shouldn’t take our skin into our own hands, but, says Craythorne, incorrect skin care can lead to inflammatory skin conditions like perioral dermatitis (red acne-like bumps and dryness around the nose and mouth).
Are you engaging in active ingredient overload?
Whereas active skin care was previously the domain of dermatologists or estheticians with a deep understanding of which active ingredients should be used for skin concerns, today actives are common in over-the-counter serums, which puts the consumer in charge of their own. routines.
Active ingredients are compounds or chemicals that have a biological effect on the skin. They are called “actives” because they are able to prevent, cure or improve a specific condition and although they must be controlled and indicated on the product label, this does not prevent the user from setting multiple actives which may inadvertently affect the protection of the skin. barrier leading to sensitivity.
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), glycolic acid and retinoids are just some of the active ingredients that have grown in popularity. There is nothing wrong with these ingredients per se; each has its role in helping to keep the skin bright and clear despite the aging process. But when you layer multiple chemicals without specialist advice you run the risk of disrupting the skin’s barrier – a vital lipid layer that keeps hydration in and irritants out.
“These neurochemicals are designed to brighten the skin but in many cases, they get through the stratum corneum (outermost layer),” says Craythorne, adding: “the issue is that they are in almost everything nowadays. So when you’re using a multi-layer skin care routine you’re adding a dribble of this, a dribble of that, without knowing how each of these chemicals will interact with each other.”
Do no harm
If your skin is uncharacteristically sensitive, start putting everything out, suggests Craythorne. “The first step is zero therapy. In other words, don’t put anything on your skin, unless it’s a moisturiser, and even then it has to be very light – heavy oils or creams will only make it worse.” If your skin improves it is wise at this point to rethink your existing skin care routine.
The best way to find out what your skin really needs is to see a dermatologist or skin expert who can prescribe a customized regimen and monitor your progress. There are now various online platforms that offer video call consultations which can be more convenient and cost effective for those who do not have access to Harley Street doctors.
Platforms like Skin + Me, Get Harley, and Klira offer private consultations with a dermatologist who will prescribe a plan for your specific skin concerns. Whereas skincare brand Coats provides a free DM-a-Derm advice service aimed at younger consumers through their Snapchat channel @coats_skin where your skin questions will be answered within 24 hours.
Cleanse than strip
The first step is to choose the right cleanser to exfoliate the skin in the first place. Craythorne likes the Cetaphil range of cleansers which are PH balanced and gentle. “Also they have additional ingredients like glyburin, ceramides and niacinamide which are good for the skin’s barrier,” she says. More generally look for PH-balanced, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, dermatologically tested labels and steer away from harsh detergents, alcohol and fragrances that can be stripped and the skin feeling tight.
These ingredients are in the best moisturiers
Inflammation can be caused by something as simple as using the wrong moisturizer or cleanser. Craythorne says that not everyone needs a moisturizer especially if your skin is oily but if you are stripping your skin you may need to replenish its lubricating lipids and bring the skin to its optimum PH.
Our skin barrier is often compared to a brick wall, the bricks are corneocytes which are mostly made up of keratin. The rest contains ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids that act as a lubricating mortar between the bricks. When you destroy these lipids you are actually creating gaps or loopholes where moisture leaks out and pollutants can get in, which can lead to inflammation (like sensitivity) that shows anything from redness and dry patches to acne and adult pigmentation.
Although there may be value in using chemical exfoliants to stimulate cell turnover, a natural process of shedding that becomes sluggish with age, it is important to put back on what you have removed. Barrier creams aimed at mitigating irritation are often occlusive – vaseline or aquarium for example – meaning they form a protective film that locks moisture in.
But studies show that the ideal moisturizer is a combination of occlusives (lanolin, shea butter and petrolatum), emollients like ceramides and squalane, and humectants (hyaluronic acid and glycerin). Other ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier include niacinamide, panthenol and oat beta-glucan, the main ingredient in Aveeno, a range renowned for treating sensitive skin.
6 of the best soothing skin care products
The Skin Infusion £330 by Augustinus Bader: Expensive, absolutely, but this refillable cream is designed as a one-off skin treatment to reset sensitivity.
Cetaphil soothing foam wash for dry normal to sensitive skin £12.49: The opposite of stripping, this cloudy cleanser leaves skin satiny soft and glisteny.
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore £140: This has been created to mimic the skin’s natural composition with a combination of ceramides, natural cholesterol and fatty acids.
Tata Harper Superkind Creme Tames £107: Hypoallergenic and alcohol-free, it contains anti-inflammatory ingredients such as Tahitian Golden Microalgae to support and soothe the skin barrier.
Avène Tolérance Skin Recovery Cream Soothing Skin £16.78: Helps soothe and calm irritated skin barrier under £20.
MZ Skin The rainbow rescue serum £125: Deeply moisturizing and reducing redness, this soothing serum contains vitamin D3 to protect the skin from free radicals.
