by “I have 15,000 strawberry plants, but I want a few more,” said Mr Al Mutuwaiee, smiling from beneath his Armani ball cap. But he has no hope for any variety, he explained: he wants the “white jewel” strawberry, the most expensive in the world – praised for its glossy but colorless flesh. However, they are not only grown in Japan, “and their export rules are… strict,” he said, opening the door to his greenhouse. “I’m trying, but no success yet. But,” he said, “I have hope! In Dubai, nothing is impossible. “
In his candura dress and designer headdress, Al Mutuwaiee looks like no ordinary farmer – but then again this is no ordinary farm. A huge lustrous mango tree towers over the courtyard, providing welcome shade from the harsh sunlight, and rows of ruby-red strawberries lead to a grove of papaya babies, their leaves bigger than dinner plates. Behind the trees, mountains go in every direction, the peaks as sharp as an electrocardiogram – rising and crashing down against a cloudless sky.
Yes, this is Dubai – but not as you probably know it. In Hatta, the small holding town of Al Mutuwaiee, there are no malls, no swish resorts, no 16-lane motorways. An exclave of the emirate of Dubai, the region is tiny – a touch larger than Jersey – and a two-hour drive from the city; it is bordered by Oman to the south, and the other United Arab Emirates to the west and north. However, its highlights would overwhelm most of the skyline, and thanks to ongoing investment in tourism and infrastructure to the tune of AED1.3 billion (£281 million), Hatta is certainly hot property.
Up in the Al Hajar mountain range, this is a quiet, traditional, little-visited region. It is full of lush date plantations and family-run farms, mighty summits and secluded campsites: natural comforts that, say the government, the new developments will improve, not destroy. It’s easy to see why the site is so ripe for investment; at this height, it is always a few degrees cooler than the city, with a fresh breeze, too. The signs call it “The Highlands of Dubai”.
Dubai adventure playground
The first major project in the region was opened in 2018: Hatta Wadi Hub, an outdoor adventure center that expands its offer every year – zip-lining, mountain biking, guided hikes, ax throwing, high ropes and much more. Before his arrival, the only people who visited Hatta from the city were a handful of hardy wild campers; I know, because I was one of them. “Now, we’re building a big shooting range, and dreaming up all kinds of new activities,” enthused general manager David Charlton on my most recent visit in February. He had the vision of someone who had created his ultimate playground – which, I believe, was due to Hatta’s extraordinary bounty.
Heading from the city of Dubai, Hatta is an easy drive east on a smooth desert highway. The world’s tallest building shrinks quickly in your rear-view mirror: it’s a surreal journey, the road surrounded by rusty-red sand dunes and lollipop camels. But just when you think you’ve left civilization behind, the Hatta sign pops up: huge Hollywood-style letters high in the hills, announcing your location in bold. It really is more than a Los Angeles icon – this is Dubai, after all.
At the Hatta Honey Bee Discovery Centre, you can wear a beekeeping outfit to get hands-on with real working hives, and taste honey made from gaf pollen – the UAE’s national tree. Soon, the Hatta Al Mutuwaiee Strawberry Farm will offer pick-your-own organic fruit, as well as farm tours and a coffee shop selling homemade preserves. There are endless hiking trails through the peaks, ancient tribal forts to explore, and almost 40km of graded cycling routes.
Another newcomer is Hatta Kayak, a water sports base at Hatta Dam. This vast, tranquil reservoir is surrounded by mountains, its waters sparkling like diamonds in the abundant sunlight. Amazingly, it’s yours to explore by kayak, paddleboard or cruise boat, with only a few elegant gray cormorants for company.
Perfect peak camping
You’d think that, in this nation of five-star hotels, a tent wouldn’t be of much interest, but the area’s campsites are in high demand – little surprise, as they’re all beautiful. Mountain views, remote fields, excellent facilities: this is not a rainy weekend in Dorset. Bathrooms and shower blocks are squeaky-clean, and trendy food trucks sell proper coffee, hot dinners, and Arabic specialties like syrup-drenched sweet luqaimat dumplings.
“The first time I visited, I couldn’t believe my eyes,” said Rania Jabar, a Canadian who has lived in Dubai for 16 years, as she watched her children scale the Wadi Hub climbing wall . “There was a whole new side to Dubai that we didn’t know existed! Three years later, we come all the time. My kids have never camped before, but they love it.”
If canvas isn’t your thing, Hatta’s glamping options include everything from geodesic domes and chic motorhomes, to small huts nestled in the hills. The accommodation is of hotel quality, but they are self-contained and hidden – with nightly rates starting at £80. I stayed at Damani Lodges, whose dinky cabins feature Dubai-style accoutrements (a king-size bed, strong wifi, golf buggies to get around), and panoramic valley views from the terrace.
Mine also had a private barbeque area, with charcoal available – or the offer to grill me dinner, and deliver it to the lodge. You can guess the option I chose; an endless feast of lamb kofta and mezze, smothered in a sorbet-pink sunset.
Hatta is far from finished: many new attractions are planned for the coming years, including a mountain cable car, a freshwater beach, and 120km more cycling trails. Still, there’s a lot to enjoy here Now, on a few days’ break from the city. A “waterfall oasis” with restaurants, cafes and play areas, which cost a reported AED46 million (£10 million), is currently being finished. “New campsites, lakes, water sports, hotels – it’s happening,” Al Mutuwaiee told me, proud of his nation’s energetic ambition.
And that may be the true key to Hatta’s allure: breathtaking scenery and outdoor fun, with flashes of Dubai’s signature optimism. Because the not-so-humble farmer is right – in this wonderfully surreal desert, “impossible” just vanishes in the wind.
Fundamentals
Damani Lodges (00 971 4 820 5500; visithatta.com) has cabins from £119 a night, excluding breakfast. Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates.com) flies direct to Dubai from seven UK airports, from £535 return.
Hatta Kayak (00 971 56 616 2111; hattakayak.com) hires kayaks from £13; Wadi Hub activities are priced at around £10.80 per adult. Camping conditions are best between October and March. For more information, see visithatta.com and visitdubai.com
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