by The century-old plane trees scattered across St Tropez’s famous Place des Lices added a welcoming splash of green to this square, their dappled shade tracing an intricate patchwork of shadows across the dusty ground.
My focus, however, was firmly elsewhere. I was concentrating hard as I curled my fingers around a metal ball the size of a plum, flicking my wrist to send it soaring high into the air. Around me, groups of locals were busily doing the same thing – albeit with much more panache.
But then, in this corner of France, the game of pétanque is not so much a pastime as a way of life.
Sampling such Provençal tradition seemed fitting during a cruise along this stretch of the Côte d’Azur with upscale French cruise line Ponant. I had stood aboard his three-masted schooner Le Ponant a few days earlier, his elegant profile marked out among the brasher mega-yachts in the pretty harbor of Nice.
On a journey that took him up the beautiful rugged stretch of coast towards the pretty former fishing village of Cassis, our captain ordered the engines to be cut and the sails to be lowered up the masts to catch the strong sea breeze.
This was sailing at its best – but something else came to life on Le Ponant: a distinctive French accent. A certain je ne sais quoi, if you will.
As you can see, French cruise lines – and, indeed, French cruise passengers – have made vacations at sea an art form. For the French, a cruise is a well-refined experience, full of sophisticated service, understated chic ensembles and various intellectual pursuits.
And while Ponant’s fleet of 14 small ships and yachts attracts an increasingly international crowd (Americans contribute about 25 percent; 50 percent come from Europe, of which the French market accounts for about a third) , it’s still there. a perfect example of this chic nautical pedigree.
Built in 1991, Le Ponant was the first member of the Ponant fleet, and is the company’s oldest vessel – not that you’d know it. Like a well-preserved archetypal Parisienne, this grand-mère of the waves is restless (but, like many of them, she had a helping hand – a comprehensive bow-to-stern restoration completed in 2022).
On board you’ll find immaculate teak decor, and an elegant interior by French designers Studio Jean-Philippe Nuel in muted hues, with bleached woods, leather and sophisticated mod artwork carefully placed throughout. Most of the staff are French, and addresses are fully bilingual. Le Ponant is so refined, in fact, that in 2023 it became the first sailing yacht to join the ranks of Relais & Châteaux.
The renovation reduced the number of staterooms to 16, and thus the number of guests to just 32 – meaning that sailings now feel more like exclusive houseboat parties than commercial cruises. It’s no wonder that the yacht is often privately chartered by wealthier guests looking for a plush family holiday base.
That cozy camaraderie came through again and again during my recent sailing – especially as we cheered on those who chose to leave the marina deck of the yacht, gliding through the chilly waters of the early summer Mediterranean. in the swimming pool of Le Ponant. Meanwhile, others paddled out on kayaks and paddleboards, or took advantage of the yacht’s snorkel and scuba diving equipment.
Like any self-respecting French establishment, there is also a strong emphasis on gastronomy. Of course, fine wines play their part – and are mostly included in the price, although oenophiles looking for a more exclusive experience can choose from a wine list that included all but two varieties from France, led by five type of champagne (although the tipple is the most expensive. It was Floral Bordeaux, Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion at a whopping €835 – or £710 – a bottle).
And the food? French cruise liners don’t concern themselves with a buffet – and as Ponant’s chefs train at the cookery school founded by Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, they needn’t have worried.
That said, those who prefer not to navigate occasionally choppy waters of experimental French cuisine (the “Tunisian egg brick”, for example, which turns out to be a square of filo pastry with herbs and eggs , or the “exotic fruit salad”, which could just be diced melon) they might appreciate the comfort of the afternoon crêpes suzette freshly prepared on deck, and the array of macarons that welcomed us when we returned on trips ashore.
Every evening we gathered on the sun deck, bathed in the golden glow of the evening light for pre-dinner drinks, indulging in cocktails and Champagne and, on one occasion, sampling delicious slices of freshly carved Iberian ham.
In St Tropez, we ended a walking tour in the most successful way: with chilled glasses of French rosé and a plate overflowing with fromage, served among the fragrant flowers of the town’s flower market in the sunshine of morning
Earlier, we followed chef Le Ponant deep into the old fish market town – the Passage de la Poissonnerie – where, as a reminder of St Tropez’s rural origins, fishermen still come to sell their catch every morning under the old portugals.
As our sailing drew to a close, I headed to the pocket-sized spa – run in partnership with Paris-based skincare professionals, Biologique Recherche – in search of a massage. Although the price for my one-hour treatment (£125) was typical of most cruise spas, I was surprised to find that there was no tip expected, nor a pushy product sales pitch. Silly perhaps, but of the many benefits of tourism à la française, this was one of the most unexpected – and the most welcomed.
Basics
Sara Macefield was a guest at Ponant (020 7660 4089; uk.ponant.com), which offers sailings this summer on Le Ponant in Croatia between August and October, with a one-week round trip from Dubrovnik with stops including Korcula, Hvar, Vis and Brac. From £8,280pp on 18th August, all inclusive. Additional flights.
