by The last time my husband and I skied together our biggest concern was finding the best Aprilits-ski bar. Ten years on now, and with a six and three year old now, our holiday priorities have changed.
For all parents embarking on their first family skiing holiday, the biggest fear is that your children won’t like the sport and risk forking out thousands of pounds to spend a week inside a chalet at play Hungry Frog. To tackle both fears we set out to find an affordable short-haul destination that offers nursery slopes and high challenges in equal measure. We were surprised to find the answer in Poland.
Little known to most British skiers, Zakopane is a well-known and popular ski resort among Poles, located on the mountainous border with Slovakia. British independent Snomads, which has gained traction for bespoke ski breaks in Bulgaria, has launched budget-friendly Zakopane holidays to widen its appeal.
As a couple, we were already fans of the Eastern European country, having enjoyed city breaks there, and the promise of excellent skiing at a fraction of the price of the Alps was too good to pass up.
Local resort
The transfer from Krakow to our chalet took only two hours – the children were transported as we climbed rough roads through the Tatra mountain range, snow-covered forests and traditional wooden houses lit up in the night sky. When they arrived, our hosts Maks and Rosie served up delicious pierogi (Polish dumplings) and cold beer. The chalet was simple but oozing with cozy charm – unlike other options in the Alps we had a garden with a tree where the kids could play and build snowmen.
Zakopane is delightful unpretentious and Polish pride. The locals were so surprised to hear British voices on the slopes that we had to be the only ones there. “What are you inkless here?” a friendly snowboarder asked us one morning on the chairlift. It’s not that they weren’t happy to see us: we found everyone to be extremely polite, pleasant and child-friendly.
And it was really a bargain. The Tatry Ski Pass, which covers slopes in both Zakopane and Slovakia, costs £29 per day – half the cost of a lift pass in the Alps. Our private ski lessons with WoMaski, booked through Snomads, cost £135 for three hours and equipment hire only set us back £15 a day; £8 for children.
Eating out was a steal too – menus were always delicious and great value. In the traditional local pubs, a meal for four with drinks and desserts costs around £30. As well as child-friendly dishes including pizza and chicken escalopes, we enjoyed authentic Polish mountain fare such as soups, potato cakes with goulash, sausages and dumplings – all coming in epic portions. A beer, perfectly positioned on the deck of Leśniczówka Resto Bar, cost £3 and was a huge success.
Parental relief
It cannot be denied that the low prices put pressure on parents. “If you did a package with kids, and they hated it, you’d be so fired up”, said an Irish mother I met while she was taking the children sledding. “I like the way here you can see how you get on, and there are lots of other activities for them if they want a break [from skiing].”
As well as ice skating, ice mazes and tobogganing, there are thermal spas all over town – an affordable way to spend an afternoon away from the slopes. We visited the Zakopane Water Park, which has slides, waves and a lazy river along with a large outdoor spa. Alternatively, if you’re staying in a chalet, most hotels offer guest passes to their pool and spa facilities – it’s super easy to save money at every opportunity.
When it came to skiing, there was a convenient nursery slope near our chalet, but the favorite spot for children was Maleciche, a 10-minute ride away. There was an uncrowded area for beginners and within a few days, our daughter was able to ski down the blue run with us.
Another area we explored was Kasprowy Wierch, one of the highest mountains in Poland with snowy slopes at 1,987m. From the highest gondola stations, it is possible to get wonderful views of the most majestic peaks in Poland and Slovakia. My husband and I took turns descending the freeride trails, a spectacular three-mile descent through forests and past bubbling streams, while the kids watched skiers wander along the ridge before starting a death-defying run down the peak.
Intel inside
So what’s the catch? The ski area in Zakopane is smaller than the average Alpine resort, and its relatively low altitude means that the season is short. During the week we visited in February, like most ski resorts in Europe last winter, the weather was relatively mild, resulting in slushy conditions on the slopes. We had no doubts, however, thanks to excellent snow cover on the higher pistes. The forecast for the following week was perfect – heavy snowfall, blue skies and sub-zero temperatures.
The slopes in Zakopane are also isolated, requiring planning and taxi rides for most visitors. However, with Snomads services, we were able to explore the entire area with ease.
The company was founded in 2012 by a group of friends who were passionate about skiing. They offer safaris in unusual destinations and personalized tours led by expert local guides.
Our host Maks was born in Britain to Polish parents and learned to ski as a child in Zakopane. His knowledge of the area helped us plan each day to perfection – he was involved in booking transfers, lessons and passes and recommending local restaurants. He also provided homemade cake every day, as if by magic, when we came in from the slopes. The concierge-like service rounded off our visit to this little-known destination.
Fundamentals
Snomads offer a week’s stay in their Chalet Stardust for £300 per adult, £255 per child. Prices include daily breakfast and two-course meal on two nights, airport transfers and daily shuttle to the piste. British Airways offers flights from London to Krakow for £72 return.
