by Is there anywhere more Christmassy than Munich? Not on my visit. Two days of heavy snowfall turned into five, and the city glittered and shone in the sunlight under its white cloak.
Christmas markets were out in most of Munich’s squares, smelling the air with Glühwein, and in the streets, shop windows beckoned – from the Dallmayr seashell Christmas tree, to the bakeries on street corners, with their gingerbread houses. Even the many art museums seem to put Christmas at the center of the fair. At the Alte Pinakothek art museum, Gauguin’s Tahitian interpretation of the nativity is displayed alongside more traditional versions by Renaissance masters. It is echoed in wood in Munich’s own traditional long cribs that are all over the city from now until Epiphany.
Do
Munich has something for everyone, even a surfing spot that has been attracting fans of the sport for over forty years. The river, the Eisbach, is located at the entrance to the large and beautiful Englischer Garten park, its stone steps generating a standing wave about half a meter high. For those who prefer to keep themselves wrapped up, it’s still fun to watch the surfers (including many international stars) riding the waves.
An even older attraction is the Rathaus-Glockenspiel. This mechanical clock has been entertaining crowds since 1908 when it was added during the completion of Newtown Hall. The carillon takes place every day at 11am and 12 noon (and 5pm from March to October) and lasts about 15 minutes each half with its 32 life-size figures and 43 bells re-enacting two historic scenes from the 16th century Munich. Keep yourself warm while sipping on Blueberry Glühwein at one of the largest Christmas markets – which dates back to the 14th century – located below six in beautiful Marienplatz, and should be your first stop when exploring Munich .
Museums
Even if you don’t get snowed in, you won’t manage to visit all the museums here. Pick carefully among the impressive selection. Art lovers should head to the Alte Pinakothek, an excellent museum with one of the largest collections of European masterpieces from the 14th to the 18th century, from Dürer to Rubens, Raphael to Rembrandt. As its sister museum, the Neue Pinakothek is under renovation until 2029, some of its great 19th-century artworks are also on display here, notably paintings by Van Gogh, Gaugin and Cezanne (pinakothek.de).
A later addition to the art scene was MUCA, the Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art. It is currently hosting a Damien Hirst exhibition featuring his famous platinum cast of a human skull inset with over 8,000 diamonds (pig-eu).
Shopping
Christmas shopping is easy here. Go to Manufactum on Dienerstrasse, which has a wide range of wonderful Christmas decorations from glossy painted wooden birds to smart steel, star-shaped, candle holders. With an emphasis on sustainable, natural products, it has everything a keen cook could need for their kitchen including a great touch spice grinder. Right next door is Munich’s answer to Fortnum & Mason; Dallmayr can trace its origins back to the 1700s and today is the largest delicatessen in Europe. Famous for its coffee, there are 18 other specialist departments, from daffodils waiting to be bought in their Cherub fountains, to the easier-to-pack caviar, and of course the traditional Christmas stole (dallmayr.com).
Food shopping can continue at Viktualienmarket. A Farmer’s Market that has been running for centuries, it specializes in Bavarian goods and offers endless possibilities for lunch or a snack while you shop (viktualienmarkt-muenchen.de).
Christmas Markets
But then the Christmas Markets also do with their usual potato pancakes, wurst sausages, candied fruit, pretzels and more. People come as much for the atmosphere as for the shopping. Here you will find Christmas tree decorations, knitted socks, wooden toys, jewellery, candlesticks and much more, but mainly these are places to meet and have some Christmas fun. The best one? Residenz, which takes place in the largest courtyard of Munich’s city palace, The Residenz, features puppet shows and handicraft workshops among the stalls.
Eat & Drink
The ‘when in Rome’ attitude means eating a breakfast of Munich Weisswurst: white sausage with sweet mustard, parsley and pretzel. There is no better place to do it than the new Rosewood Munich, whose pretzels alone are worth a visit. But also stay for lunch and try their traditional Alpine spinach dumplings or beef tartare.
The most talked about is the famous Hofbräuhaus, a typical Beer Hall going strong from the 16th century, but if you want something more authentic, try the Spatenhaus an der Opera, directly opposite the State Opera . Under the delicately painted ceilings, dine on perfectly crisp Wiener Schnitzel with a side of extra hot potatoes (pole.de).
For a fun night out with good food try to get a table at Schumann, the hottest ticket in town. Start with a cocktail – their mezcal margarita is a standout – and continue to try their beef tartare with local wine. You might even be attended by the great Charles Schumann himself (schumanns.de).
Wait
…. And I did, because of what was allegedly the heaviest snowfall since 1938. My two nights became four then five. But the more I stayed at the new Rosewood that opened last month, the more I liked it. Housed in two impressive buildings, one the former State Bank of Bavaria, the other the Neuhaus-Preysing palace, the rooms and suites were designed by Tara Bernerd, with her trademark warm and elegant fully displayed. They are uncluttered but luxurious with colorful locally inspired art woven throughout and books lining the shelves. Bathrooms feature deep soaking tubs and generous showers. The floors are heated and the towels are the thickest I have ever used.
Food at its Alpine-inspired brasserie, Cuvilliés, comes to mind. Try the spinach dumplings with pecorino and brown butter to see what I mean. And when you come in from the cold outside, head to the spa for a dip in the beautiful heated pool. It is surrounded by oversized daybeds in niches and books and there is a cocooning atmosphere that permeates the entire hotel.
Doubles start at €800 including breakfast at the Rosewood Munich (rosewoodhotels.com).
