by MILAN — The upcoming edition of Milan Fashion Week is expected to open with a bang, according to the preliminary schedule presented by the Italian fashion chamber on Wednesday.
Taking place between 12 and 16 January, the event will kick off with Sabato De Sarno presenting his menswear vision for Gucci at 3 pm CET. Between the Billionaire and the Dsquared2 coed fashion show, Stone Island will also stage its first runway show later that day in the city’s La Cattedrale industrial space.
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“As we embark on the next chapter for Stone Island, Milan Men’s Fashion Week provides us with a platform to gather our community together and share the new Stone Island manifesto, which speaks to the heritage, values and unique mission of this iconic brand ,” said Robert Triefus, a former Gucci executive who was appointed chief executive officer of outerwear company Moncler earlier this year.
As for the presentation, there will be Brunello Cucinelli, Boglioli and the first debut in the official schedule of the emerging Mordecai label, launched at the moment by former Moncler designer Ludovico Bruno. As reported, Kiton will also star in the “Tailoring School. A Journey Into Education” exhibition in partnership with the Triennale Milano museum to celebrate its internal academy and to highlight the importance of craftsmanship and training for a new generation of tailors.
The following day the likes of Fendi, Emporio Armani, MSGM, Neil Barrett and Philipp Plein will stage their fashion shows, with Todd Snyder’s Woolrich Black Label debuting through a performance format.
As reported, Etro reserved January 14 to unveil its new menswear collection, cutting the ribbon of its first store dedicated exclusively to the line and the made-to-order service in Milan’s Via Montenapoleone. The fashion house will not skip a runway event this season, opting for a coed show in February.
Moschino is also missing from the schedule, having already presented its men’s 2024 collection this month, along with its women’s pre-fall 2024 range. Conceived by an in-house design team, the brand’s creative direction remains vacant following the tragic and sudden death of Davide Renne.
Also in a transitional phase while waiting for Matteo Tamburini’s debut in February, Tod will present its men’s fall 2024 collection on January 14. pm CET as well as other debuts. Among them will be the first Milan show of Pronounce, the Shanghai-based fashion label founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou; the launch of Institution, the sole idea of Galib Gassanoff, former designer of Act N.1; and the first men’s collection with footwear label Stuart Weitzman, among others.
Giorgio Armani and Zegna will resume their usual time slots on January 15, with the first show at 11 am CET at its magnificent headquarters on Via Borgonuovo, with the second getting a 3 pm CET timing but no location details have been revealed yet. .
Filippo Grazioli will present his latest menswear effort for Missoni that day, along with Dhruv Kapoor, Lessico Familiare and indie brand Noskra.
In accordance with the post-pandemic tradition, the last day will consist only of digital exhibitions – mainly from indie brands – which will bring the total number of appointments in the schedule across shows, presentations and events to 74.
Assessing the ever-increasing impact of Milan Fashion Week on the economy of the entire city, the local municipality said that the event in September broke records, generating 88 million euros in sales across restaurants, transport, hotels and other services .
Italian fashion chamber chairman Carlo Capasa instead offered updated sales projections for 2023. Sales generated by the country’s fashion and related industries (including textiles, clothing, leather goods, footwear, jewelry, eyewear and cosmetics) are expected to grow by 4 percent to 102.8 billion euros compared to last year.
Capasa pointed out that sales of men’s clothing and accessories specifically increased by 5 percent compared to last year and represent 20 percent of the total sales generated in these product categories.
The cautious forecast of overall sales for the current year results in a registered slowdown in the third quarter of 2023. The retail channel showed particular fatigue, with clothing sales down 4.7 percent and 5 percent in September and October, respectively, and footwear sales declining 3.4 percent and 3 percent in the same months.
According to data shared by the organization, overall sales projections for 2024 will continue this year’s rate of increase and be up between 3 percent and 4 percent.
As for exports in 2023, they are projected to grow by 5 percent to 90.6 billion euros in 2023, compared to last year.
In the first eight months of 2023, exports continued to be the main driver for the industry, increasing by 6.3 percent overall, but at a different pace according to the different categories. In the core sectors – textiles, clothing, leather goods, footwear – they were up 3.2 percent, and climbed 16 percent in the jewelry, eyewear and cosmetics categories, compared to the same period last year.
France, Germany and the US were the main destinations for Italian fashion in the period, followed by Switzerland and China.
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