by Antarctica, once off limits to all but research station scientists, is becoming an increasingly popular cruise destination. According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), commercial tourism began in the late 1950s when 500 or so fare-paying passengers aboard Chilean and Argentine naval vessels traveled to the South Shetland Islands on resupply missions to research stations.
“The first vessel built specifically to take fee-paying passengers to Antarctica was the ice-strengthened m/v Lindblad Explorer built in 1969. She paved the way for tourists to visit -last part of the world and enjoy it.”
When IAATO was established in 1991, approximately 6,400 tourists visited Antarctica on 10 cruise ships. In the 2022/23 season, 71,346 passengers visited 60 vessels. In addition, 32,730 were “cruise only” visitors – those on ships carrying 500 or more passengers, who are not allowed to disembark.
Antarctica is an unforgettable destination, but time on the continent is precious and expensive. Forewarned is forearmed. Here are some of the things cruise lines don’t tell you.
The itinerary is subject to change
When you drill down for travel details, you’ll find that day-to-day details are fuzzy. This is mostly due to the weather. Storms and katabatic winds can blow up in an instant; a sudden drop in temperature early in the season can cause ice reformation and routes can become ice bound overnight.
Weather and ship size affect anchorages but a typical course will visit Fournier Bay, Paradise Bay, Lemaire Sound, Port Lockroy (although currently off limits), Neko Harbour, Deception Island and Elephant Point in South Shetland.
In February 2024, @ruinedvacation shared on TikTok that a cruise line had made a last-minute name change to its itinerary via the app. Instead of visiting Paradise Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula, the Norwegian Cruise Line ship visited Admiral Bay in the South Shetland Islands (a group of islands 75 miles north of the Antarctic Peninsula), before heading to the Falklands.
“Part of the wonder of Antarctica is its unpredictability,” says a source at IAATO: “Make no mistake, though it may be the most hostile place on earth. It’s always best to go into your journey with an open mind.”
You will need a medical pass
A “fit to travel” medical form requires a GP’s signature, and most charge a fee for this service. Some surgeries won’t do it, which means booking an appointment online with the ship’s own doctor, possibly in a different time zone, and at your own expense.
If someone dies, your cruise may be cancelled
Death on a cruise – it happens more often than you might expect and it’s a grizzly thing that most cruise ships have morgues.
King George Island, the largest of the South Shetland Islands and located 75 nautical miles off the coast of Antarctica, has a runway that can facilitate medevac emergencies, but flights are weather dependent. Lines do what they can to limit the impact on passengers, but there is always the chance that your ship will have to return to the port of Ushuaia in Argentina, curtailing your journey. Always read the small print.
The small print?
It is unlikely that you will be offered a free replacement cruise. A spokesperson from HX said: “In cases where cruising is significantly restricted due to a medical emergency, we will ensure that alternative accommodation is provided to guests at no extra charge. In addition, where appropriate, we provide reasonable compensation. This could take the form of an on-board credit, a future cruise credit, or a refund, depending on the specific circumstances of the breach.”
You should always book insurance
For this once-in-a-lifetime trip, triple check your insurance policy. Tim Riley, managing director at The True Traveller, says: “If, because someone gets sick, the ship has to divert, that’s always built into the terms and conditions of a cruise. Most cruise passengers accept that this can happen.”
Aviva says: “If a cruise is cut short because another passenger requires medical attention, this would not be covered under Aviva’s policy. However, if an Aviva customer fell ill and required medical treatment or had to return home early, this would be covered under the terms of the policy.”
Don’t assume you’ll land
This is not always spelled out on cruise websites. On its Antarctica Cruises home page, Celebrity Cruises says: “Cruises visit several locations on and around the Antarctic Peninsula.
“View the dramatic landscapes of Antarctica in the company of expert naturalists as you glide slowly through iceberg-covered waters in search of penguins, seals and whales.”
Gaze is the operative word. In accordance with IAATO protocol, ships carrying more than 500 passengers cannot board their guests. Views are made from the ship, and passengers still go across the Drake Passage, which means four days traveling there and back.
In 2026, Celebrity Equinox, carrying 2,852 passengers, “visits” Elephant Island in the South Shetland Islands and Gerlache Strait, Schollart Strait and Paradise Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula. If you’re happy to see the scenery and wildlife from afar, the price difference is around £8,000. (The Celebrity Cruise costs from £1,957pp.)
Bird flu has reached Antarctica
In December, the Antarctic Wildlife Health Network reported the first suspected case of bird flu in Antarctica. In February, a case was reported at the Argentine research station Esperanza Base.
On a visit to the peninsula in January, we were forbidden to sit, crouch or put bags on the ground. Tour locations may be affected by additional biosecurity measures. A popular visitor spot is Port Lockroy (Gudier Island), where visitors can walk around a historic research hut, view the island’s penguin colony and send a postcard from the post office. On 5 December 2023, the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust closed the island to visitors. It is not yet known whether the island will reopen for the 2024-2025 season.
The sun may not shine
We’ve all seen the pictures of icebergs and peaks reflected in glassy bays and pink sunset skies. But don’t expect wall-to-wall sunshine. You may not see the sun for an entire week, which can affect activities, sights and wildlife sightings. However, it is unlikely to ruin a trip.
There are no polar bears
Polar bears live in the Arctic, which is in the northern hemisphere. Apart from the Galapagos, the penguins are the hot ticket to see in the Antarctic. In its latest report on the State of Antarctic Penguins, the non-profit penguin monitoring organization Oceanites counted more than six million breeding pairs, across the five species, at 740 sites in Antarctica. South Shetland is home to three types of penguins as well as Antarctic terns, giant petrels, leopard seals and whales.
Read more: Discover the secret to the perfect Antarctic adventure
