by If you thought we evolved into the past with grown women wearing giant wings to swallow cheap knickers, I’m sorry to report that we haven’t reached that level of human maturity yet. All-American lingerie giant Victoria’s Secret – which is looking at a third straight year of declining sales – decided the way to get those numbers back to more shareholder-friendly heights was its show to revive fashion.
In a post to its 76 million followers (can they all be wrong?), the brand announced that the show would reflect “who we are today, plus everything you know and love – the glamour, the runway , the wings, musical entertainment and more! ” Can feel more underwhelmed?
In its heyday, the VS show was seen as a sort of “fashion” Olympics, women’s magazines blurted out features about how well-executed and starved these honeyed and honed models were. ; the columnists took it upon themselves to “journey” to the string of G-threatening cystitis. It was an abundant traffic driver that required weeks of digital content plans without revealing any angles (or indeed angels). Ten reasons why we hate the Victoria’s Secret show! Plus, how to get the look of a VS model! The queen bee of the season wore “fantasy” bras, which came encrusted in real diamonds and often cost more than $1 million. In 2014 the show – very much in its hype era at the time – came to London, which I can’t tell you much about because I refused to go, and not just because it was at Earl’s Court.
Then, of course, came #MeToo and some shocking revelations about former CEO Les Wexner and his proximity to Jeffrey Epstein. The Goliath supplier of Pink was partially killed by capital P satin pajamas and sales have declined and declined ever since. Apparently, their brand position tried to counter what people might call “wokeness”, producing worthwhile podcasts with a “comprehensive” guest list that no one probably listened to; no more angels in wings, chubby models in campaigns, etc.
Lauren Sherman, a correspondent for Puck whose weekly newsletter has become a fashion industry must-read, has co-authored a book — Selling Sexy: Victoria’s Secret and the Unraveling of an American Icon — coming out next month. next September (the show is planned for November). I asked for her thoughts on the comeback and she offered that “it comes down to this: I don’t think the people running the company know what to do, so they’re falling back on what worked, falling back on the distance. The problem: consumers aren’t driven by nostalgia when buying a bra. They want something sexy and comfortable – and cool. There is nothing great about trying to recreate the past.”
Despite body positivity movements online, eating disorder statistics are worse now than they were in the nineties. The demand for cosmetic enhancements is growing at the same time
Ellen Atlanta
There is an attempt to trade in the passé for VS at an inflection point when examining the toxicity of the overexposed beauty complex. In her book Pixel Flesh, Ellen Atlanta details the increasing pressure to achieve a “perfect” body. “Despite body positivity movements online, eating disorder statistics are worse now than in the nineties. The demand for cosmetic enhancements is growing at the same time.”
Supermodel – and former VS model – Cameron Russell takes a similarly candid view of her experience in her memoir. “We know what we’re selling,” she writes. “Isn’t that okay? Perhaps the real problem is the out-of-contract exchanges. All the flirting, the casual nudity, the dinners, the texting, all before anyone is paid. I doubt that many of the girls want to touch these men or show them their tits, at least not for free. But that’s the only way in.”
At the same time, weight loss injections are being touted as the new Botox, so much is our commitment to achieving inescapable body perfection, where I think we can finally pull on the Victoria’s Secrets thong and I feel we can achieve it too. catwalk nirvana and a pair of angel wings. Please make it stop.
Hurry Roksanda
Many designers are about to fall out of the Matches debacle; It’s all anyone whispers about at fashionable dinners in town. Fingers crossed there are many saviors waiting in the wings. Roksanda Ilinčić’s eponymous label was forced out of administration last week when it sold to The Brand Group. Ilinčić will remain as creative director, and one hopes that he will continue to inspire us (and fans from Zendaya to Vanessa Redgrave) with his beautiful designs. If you’re quick, you can grab the second drop of her delicious collaboration with Jigsaw (on sale now).
Victoria Moss is the Fashion Director of the Evening Standard and ES Magazine
