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It is early morning and an orange glow fills the sky as the sun rises slowly over a seemingly endless desert landscape.
Every few hours, shepherds walk into view, hundreds of sheep and goats in herds as they make their way to the nearby water well.
The only sounds to be heard are the wind, the braids and barks of the native animals and the occasional rumble of 4×4 vehicles bringing in new people.
It’s all part of the remote desert experience offered at the Three Camel Lodge, an eco-resort in Khan Kongor in Mongolia’s Gobi (meaning desert), one of the most remote places in the world.
Far from civilization, the lodge aims to give visitors a closer look at the traditional Mongolian nomadic lifestyle – a community of people who survive on the Central Asian plateau relying on domesticated livestock.
Although there is not much nomadic culture left in the world, it is still an integral part of Mongolian life. Today, about a quarter of the country’s population of more than 3 million people are nomads.
There are 24 gers in the lodge. These round tent-like dwellings are made of wood, felt and rope – materials flexible enough to carry around, easy to assemble and strong enough to withstand the strong desert wind.
Inside, the arrangement is simple – there are pieces of wooden furniture and other decorative pieces. But each has luxuries not typically found in a nomad’s home – like a private bathroom with running water and solar-powered electricity.
The Three Camel Lodge also has an on-site restaurant, bar (with a very extensive whiskey selection) and even a spa – quite unusual, especially in this part of the world.
How the Lodge of the Three Camels was born
The Three Camel Lodge was the brainchild of 68-year-old Mongolian-American businessman Jalsa Urubshurow.
As a child growing up in the United States in the 1960s, he could only dream of the dramatic landscapes of Mongolia. But the country’s culture was always in his heart, thanks to his father’s colorful stories.
“The Mongolians have a pretty accurate genetic tracking system … you can determine which geographic region within a few 100-mile radii your tribe, your ancestors came from,” says Jalsa, whose father was born in Kalmykia, now a region south of Russia.
“(My father) reminded me of this in central New Jersey when I was growing up.”
In the early 1990s, when Mongolia opened its borders to international tourists, Jalsa was able to visit for the first time.
“I’ve been to a lot of Mongolian weddings in New Jersey, you know, but that’s about it. (the visit) invokes so many different images,” he says.
“I got to go out into the countryside and meet shepherds and stay in some camps … it was a great experience.”
Soon after, the prime minister of Mongolia tasked Jalsa with bringing in more travelers from the West. In 1992 he started a travel services company, Nomadic Expeditions, which provides tours in Mongolia and other countries.
“It took me two years to get anyone to come,” he recalls.
In 2002, Jalsa decided to build something more permanent in the Gobi, and the Three Camel Lodge was born.
Land of dinosaurs and flaming cliffs
The Gobi is known as the land of the dinosaurs – and is a fundamental part of Mongolian culture.
Just half an hour’s drive from The Three Camel Lodge is one of the world’s most important dinosaur fossil sites.
At Bayanzag, explorers made the first scientifically-known discovery of dinosaur eggs a century ago. While discovering the nests with his team from the American Museum of Natural History in the 1920s, paleontologist Roy Andrews aptly named the site “The Flaming Cliffs” after the red sandstones that seem to come to life. at sunset, which turned the whole area into a bonfire. red color.
Here, dinosaur fossils can still be found today.
“This place is very mysterious … it’s kind of secret and lonely. It’s a special place for me,” Buyandelger Ganbaatar, Nomadic Expeditions domestic director and lead tour guide, tells CNN Travel.
“It was a sand dune about 70 million years ago. An ancient settlement known as the Flame Cliffs. One of the reasons for Andrews’ journey was to prove that the human race came from Central Asia and he was looking for the evidence.”
Speaking of dunes, another popular spot near the lodge is Moltsog Els – just a 15 minute drive. Despite being in the desert, it is one of several regions in the Mongolian Gobi that is covered in sand dunes.
Here, guests can explore the dunes on foot or rent a camel from one of the local herding families around the area.
Beyond sand dunes and red stone cliffs, the Gobi is also famous for its greenery. An hour’s drive from the lodge, Yol Valley was originally established to preserve poultry, including the Yol, or bearded vulture.
Guests can also take a trip to the protected Gobi Gurvan Sakihan National Park, which is rich in biodiversity – from white-tailed deer to leopards and golden eagles. The valley can be explored on foot or on horseback – during the summer, a stream runs through the deep and narrow gorge.
Other experiences available at the lodge include archery trekking sessions, stargazing, cycling and cooking classes.
Sustainability pioneer
With such great nature around, conservation was key from the start. Being in such a remote area, it was important for Jalsa and his team to put the right infrastructure in place.
Considered a pioneer in sustainable tourism, the Three Camel Lodge today follows three main pillars: sustainable stewardship, conservation and community empowerment.
The lodge began by doing away with single-use plastic bottles, instead handing out reusable metal tumblers to its guests. They also built a waste management system from scratch, diverting garbage from landfills by creating a greenhouse for composting. Solar panels power almost all of the lodge’s lighting. Materials for construction, furniture and décor are sourced as locally as possible – within 50 miles of the lodge.
“I think you have to have a commitment through your architecture, your environment and your design and operations to the culture you’re trying to promote,” says Jalsa. “Finding some level of authenticity that’s sustainable, that’s the spirit. Ongoing sustainable tourism is based on local employment.”
For Jalsa, that means investing in local people. The Three Camel Lodge has nearly 30 full-time Mongolian staff – and it was important that they share the same attitude.
“It’s great if you can protect our planet, and share your culture with people,” he says.
Investing in the wider Gobi community is also an important part of the lodge’s sustainability goals, whether that’s supporting educational programs or working with international paleontology organizations to help protect dinosaur fossils.
“Mongolia is one of the last places where you can get away and see amazing desert and amazing landscapes,” says Jalsa.
Go there
Not for travelers weary of traveling to and from Camel Lodge – did we mention it’s remote?
“It’s a seven- to eight-hour drive (to the Gobi), and your average tourist doesn’t want that,” Jalsa tells CNN of the trip from Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar.
There are flights to the Gobi but they usually leave in the middle of the night and arrive at Dalanzadgad Airport just as the sun starts to rise. After that, it’s another hour’s drive across the trackless desert before the lodge emerges in the distance, almost like an oasis.
Getting out of the Gobi can be even more complicated – flights back to the capital are often canceled (ours were, twice) at short notice. In winter, some flights do not operate at all.
Currently, Jalsa says the lodge is open for business from early May to November. He hopes that more support can be obtained from the government to improve logistics and also extend the annual tourist season, at least “a little longer.”
“I think that the government, in order for them to accept tourism, they (should) subsidize domestic air travel, especially if it is for tourism,” says Jalsa.
“Essentially, you are bringing clients to the country, and you make places within the country accessible to them. I think it’s a great opportunity, and we’ve been working for 30 years or more to put it on the map.”
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