by Glyndebourne, one of the world’s most famous opera festivals, starts on Thursday and runs until August 25. In its 90th year, it has already achieved record sales with performances including The Happy Widowwhich is being staged here for the first time, side by side Carmen and The Magic Flute.
For anyone who’s ever held a ticket, there’s something utterly magical about this country opera – from its idyllic South Downs setting, where thistle hills and lavender-scented gardens surround a 16th-century rambling manor, to the cod formal dress, which is still de rigueur although it is no longer enforced. It looks like the ultimate social treasure is coming here.
For all the old lifers who drool over the radical productions and slip-suit standards (you’ll spot a few snoozing after too many flutes in the sunshine) there’s an influx of younger fans, thanks in part with. new membership for under 30s and 40s offering priority bookings and discounted tickets.
Audiences come not just for the music but for the whole experience – the thrill of dressing up and putting together the best picnic of a lifetime; silver, crystal, candlestick, everything goes, thrown by the soundtrack of birds singing and sheep grazing. This is a place where standards are high and first timers are likely to be wondering what on earth to wear, because although the official website says there are “no rules”, if you roll up in denim, flip-flops or shorts, be prepared to find yourself in a chokehold.
Consider an evening cocktail rather than a hunting ball, which is more formal than a wedding guest because you don’t have to worry about overshadowing a bride. This is the place to make lady-of-the-manor-dressy sequins but not OTT razzle-dazzle. It’s a balancing act – you also need to be properly dressed for the outdoors and prepared for all manner of English weather.
“I always try to wear British designers if I can, it seems appropriate,” says Glyndebourner Annika Purdey of James Purdey & Sons who annually select designers including Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Victoria Beckham and Beulah London .
Her best tip? Don’t wear anything too tight. “You’re going to be sitting most of the day and you want to be comfortable.”
Birger Christensen Recycled Cloak Dress, £300, Net-a-Porter; velvet headband, £385, Jess Collett; Beaded bag, £350, shrimps; white mules, £35, M&S
Chic updos or soft waves look nice, alongside bold lips or eyes. For those arriving by train, you must decide whether to arrive in full dress (there is a coach from the train station to the ground) or drop into one of the dressing rooms on site.
“I attended for the first time last year with a friend and her family who go every year and dress quite formally,” says Eshita Kabra, founder of rental site By Rotation. “The girls were in dresses, and the men were in black tie so I chose to wear a Jacquemus lemon sorbet dress which has a semi-formal appeal.’
My first trip to Glyndebourne was with my now husband’s family in 2012. Now out of university, I didn’t know much about the opera but threw myself into the preparation – the excitement of going to Bicester Village to design a dress take, with Kate. Blow-dry with Middleton’s style to boot, ready to watch the drama unfold.
It was my first proper introduction to a black tie event and it was great people-watching – from those who could only bring a picnic blanket and an M&S sandwich in slightly too casual attire, to the ladies who wore ball gowns and scrubbed husbands, and the corporate box guests who stepped forward with their shirts open (tut-tut).
It was spellbinding – except I made the big faux pas of wearing stilettos. I didn’t expect the amount of walking I would do, from the car park to the picnic kit – tables, chairs, the lot – to a peaceful spot under a willow tree by a lake. Do not make the same mistake, especially if you want to breeze around the nice gardens for photos. Those in the know choose a block or wedge heel so there’s no chance of sinking into the grass or, even better, a slightly shorter edge so a nice flat peeks out underneath.
Kabra also recommends changing shoes. “I had my Loewe basket bag for my flat shoes – for train journeys and grass walking – I would highly recommend bringing a bigger bag and comfortable heels.”
Silk coat, £765, Woven Kit; Tweed trousers, £299, Sandro; Lace & silk top, £65, COS; Leather sandals, £95, & Other Stories
If dresses aren’t your thing, sharp tailoring is a chic choice and statement blazers, tapered trousers and stand-out suits from designers such as The Deck, the first women’s tailor on Savile Row, and Me+Em would work great.
“I like the romantic look of Glyndebourne that goes with the bucolic setting,” says London-based designer Anna Mason, whose elegant, feminine pieces regularly adorn clients for the festival. “A long dress, so you can wear tights to keep the cold out, and you’ll need a layer – an evening jacket or a cardigan because you’ll want to look summery but not freeze when the temperature drops and it’s dark. “
Cotton dress, £995, Anna Mason London; Raffia bag, £195, He; Crystal rings, £14, Accessorize; Metallic leather heels, £135, Boden
For those who prefer not to buy something new, rental platforms such as By Rotation and Hurr have entire sections dedicated to black tie. “I would rent midi to long contemporary dresses from brands like Reformation, The Vampire’s Wife and Zimmermann,” says Kabra. If you’re considering headgear, stick with a fedora or something wide-brimmed to keep the sun at bay but take it off during the performance – no one wants their views blocked. Bows and ear bands add a fun touch and don’t forget costume jewelery too; sparkles always go down well.
For men, most enjoy slipping into a traditional black or white tie (watch out for grass stains); after all, as my husband attests, there aren’t many occasions left that fully embrace formal dress.
“It’s always a pleasure to see so many people put so much effort into dressing up for the opera, it shows respect for the artists and the tradition of the events,” says William Emmett, owner of vintage shop Emmett & White, who located in Alfriston near the regular attendant. Glyndebourne. “I like to be traditional when wearing an evening suit but I usually add color with a soft bright tie, a brooch on my lapel and velvet slippers, which are easy to slip in and out of when I’m sitting on the ground.”
