The secret to the perfect Cotswolds countryside escape

With its honey-stone villages and manor houses, its rolling landscape of sheep hills and its handsome churches, the Cotswolds are breathtakingly beautiful. Who wouldn’t want to visit for a short break – or a long break, for that matter? The region’s 800 square miles or so are criss-crossed by paths and bisected by dry stone walls, some 4,000 miles of which add architectural embellishments to the natural art here. There’s a wealth to explore, from Roman remains at Chedworth to contemporary crafts in Cirencester – and a range of grand country houses to visit too.

But you can’t take in the whole region over a few days. So home in on an appealing part. To the north are the exquisite amenities of Chipping Campden and the glorious gardens of Hidcote and Kiftsgate. To the east is historic Burford, with wonderful old coaching inns on the east side. To the west is Glen Slad Laurie Lee and creative little Painswick. Further south-east is Tetbury, which is royally attached and oddly off-the-radar with big tourism for its charms. And wherever you go you’ll find delightful, if often expensive, places to stay, from boutique hotels and country houses to quaint pubs and elegant guesthouses.

For more inspiration for the perfect Cotswolds break, check out our guide to the best hotels, restaurants, pubs, afternoon teas, shopping and things to do in the region.


In this guide


How to spend your weekend

Perfect pastoral England is wrapped in the gentle hills of the Cotswolds. Sure, there are lively festivals and lively towns, but most visitors come for the quiet and the incredibly nice view. Especially in the north of the region. It offers some of the most popular accommodation and has many of the must-see sights (some of which are within easy walking distance of each other), making it a great weekend getaway.

Sit in the countryside on country back roads – our two main recommendations are tucked away but fairly quickly accessible and convey the feeling of being in a different time. For dreamy luxury views and antiques, check into Lords of the Manor at Upper Slaughter four miles south-west of Stow-on-the-Wold; it is a classic country house hotel with great service, exquisite food and a wonderful garden. Or choose to stay for less – and bags of atmosphere – in a well-respected inn on an ideal village green; The Kings Head at Bledington, just over four miles south-east of Stow-on-the-Wold, has armfuls of pub awards and excellent brasserie fare and 12 stylish rooms (small in the historic part of the property, more generous in a wing newer). ).

blenheim palace

Blenheim Palace is a great family day out – Andreas von Einsiedel/Andreas von Einsiedel

Both venues are well placed to take in that most spectacular of British sights, Blenheim Palace – along with stunning grounds designed by Capability Brown. Be sure to explore further north too: head to handsome Chipping Campden, beautiful Broadway and two of the best gardens in the region, at Hidcote Manor and Kiftsgate Court – just a mile apart, the former more formal, the latter family-led and something of a hidden treasure. Other striking options include the flamboyant Sezincote House and Gardens, an exotic mix of Cotswold Mansion and Moghul Indian Palace, Jacobean Castleton House and Batsford Arboretum, developed by Algernon Bertram Freeman-Mitford, grandfather of the famous Mitford sisters.

The perfect week’s holiday in the Cotswolds

Extend your journey and move south; Adding a few more days to your break will give you the chance to enjoy two of the region’s most famous picturesque villages: Burford, with its glorious high street lined with ancient coaching inns, and Bibury with its row of weaver’s cottages. great. (William Morris was so delighted with them when he visited in the late 19th century that he declared Bibury the most beautiful village in England). However, you’ll want to time your visit to avoid the crowds that descend on both locations. So stick around and come explore after hours; by 5pm the crowds will be gone. This will leave much of the day for walking in the area – along the Windrush and Coln valleys – and exploring some of the attractions of nearby Cirencester, from the stunning Roman mosaics at the Corinium Museum to contemporary craft made in the New Brewery. Arts.

Laurie Lee's country is a pastoral landscape of rolling hills and patchwork fieldsLaurie Lee's country is a pastoral landscape of rolling hills and patchwork fields

Laurie Lee’s country is a pastoral landscape of rolling hills and patchwork fields – Copyright – Stephen Dorey/Stephen Dorey

For tucked-away charm and reasonable rates, base yourself at the New Inn at Coln St Aldwyns, nine miles south-west of Burford and about three miles south-east of Bibury. Dating from the 16th century, this stylish pub has a traditional bar, a restaurant serving gourmet burgers and small plates and 14 good-looking bedrooms. Or pop into the store of an old coaching inn, The Lamb on Sheep Street in Burford. With its old stone fireplaces, snoozy armchairs and a wonderful hidden garden, it is inviting and inviting.

End your week break in the Cotswolds and stay further south, in the neighborhood of Tetbury. Cruise this charming market town, browsing antique shops and taking in the beautiful Chipping Steps lane and the stunning 17th century market house of Tetbury perched on a pillar. Just outside the town, visit Highgrove Gardens, created by King Charles (advance booking is essential) and explore Westonbirt Arboretum, home to around 15,000 trees including the rare acer. Perhaps best of all, land Laurie Lee; the wonderful Slad Valley is celebrated in the author’s most famous book ‘Cider with Rosie’ and there is a five mile walking path here, lined with posts inscribed with some of his poetry.

Highgrove GardensHighgrove Gardens

Highgrove, Prince Charles’ estate, has some of the most glorious gardens in the Cotswolds

Accommodation options include the beautifully designed Calcot & Spa, approximately four miles west of Tetbury. Set on 220 acres of grounds, this hotel cluster has excellent facilities for families as well as a relaxing space for those on an adult trip. Or for a less expensive but attractive option, book into The Close townhouse hotel in Tetbury, with 20 mellow bedrooms, good brasserie food and a gorgeous walled garden.


Insider tips

Village watch

For stunning Cotswold beauty, head to Minchinhampton. It’s a chocolate box of a village – but without the crowds that descend on equally beautiful Bibury and Bourton-on-the-Water.

Little known attractions

Walk around Broadway Tower, folly on the escarpment above picturesque Broadway, and you’ll find the best views in the Cotswolds. Then visit the monument because of its strong eccentricity. Designed by Capability Brown and completed in 1798, the tower became a holiday home for William Morris.

Market

Stroud Farmers Market (Cornhill Market Place) is a huge event held every Saturday 9am-2pm. Here you’ll find great bread by The Artisan Baker, free-range salami from The Cotswold Curer, local beer from Corinium Ales and much, much more.

Did you know?

Many of the Mitford sisters are buried in St Mary’s Church in Swinbrook, perhaps reason enough to visit. But there are other compelling sights in this old church, especially the magnificent tombs of the Fettiplace landowners, whose images are stacked one above the other as if on shelves. Head down the road for a drink at Swinbrook’s Swan Inn and pick up some Mitford memorabilia on display.

Hotel

The Wild Rabbit is a place of eco-beauty a few parks away from Carole Bamford’s Daylesford joint venture, organic farm shop, deli, spa (and more). She converted this 18th century inn and it is carefully designed in calm colours, stone and wood. It’s a lovely posh pub, with food to match.


When to go

Every season has an intrinsic appeal. Crowd-free winters are ideal for bracing walks, fireside pub sessions – and lower hotel prices. Come in spring to see lambs and wild daffodils. Visit in the summer (with many others no doubt) for magical light, especially in the long evenings. Or take a trip in the autumn for a quieter atmosphere and brilliant leaf colour, especially at the two major arboretums, Westonbirt and Batsford.

cotswolds scenecotswolds scene

Consider your travel times to avoid queues and crowds in the Cotswolds – ©2018 Andrea Pistolesi/Andrea Pistolesi


Where to stay

Best for families

Slaughters Country Inn has generous outdoor space and a great selection of family-friendly rooms; Ellenborough Park offers 17 bedrooms and family suites and an imaginative range of facilities; With its spacious grounds, interconnecting rooms and rooms with sofa beds, Muilann an Aire is a haven for those with children.

Find more of the best family hotels in the Cotswolds in our guide.

Best for romance

Thyme is an epicurean retreat in a world of its own – complete with beautiful rooms and a relaxing spa; at the Lyon Arms in Broadway to book a bedroom in the historic main building; Buckland Manor offers complete peace, with old stone fireplaces, mullioned windows and a tranquil setting.

Find more of the best romantic hotels in the Cotswolds in our guide.

The FortThe Fort

The Close combines a great sense of style with good value

Best for a restaurant

The seven-course tasting menu at Whatley Manor’s intimate dining room is a Michelin-starred delight; at the Dormy House hotel choose informal sophistication at The Back Garden restaurant or head to the chef’s table at MO gourmet; The Painswick has a restaurant that offers delicious flavor combinations – think tangy rhubarb with lightly cured mackerel.


What to take home

Godsell artisan cheese is made by a farming family in the village of Leonard Stanley – the Gloucester Holy Smoked single very well.

College Green Soap (available at Stroud Farmers Market) – aromatic and handmade in the Stroud valley using natural ingredients, from rosemary and mint to lemongrass, ginger and oats.


Know before you go

Essential information

Just ask Jeremy Clarkson, Rebekah Brooks, Kate Moss, Alex James, Jilly Cooper and others from a long list of the great, the good and the famous who call the Cotswolds home (or second home). The local people are not alone in the celebrity culture.

Enjoy the richness of the Cotswolds – the well-kept towns and villages, the carefully preserved countryside. But be aware that the cost of living is very high: finding comfortable hotel accommodation for less than £90 per night for a double room is a challenge.


About our expert

Harriet O’Brien’s work has taken her from Amsterdam to Amritsar, Belgium to Burma and of course many destinations in Britain. She lives in the Cotswolds – which she says is ‘in the top five most beautiful places in the world’.

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