by I discovered the New York-based brand Buci (pronounced Boo-Tsi, as its Instagram feed will tell you) as most of its loyal fans have now: three videos of a model in one for his dresses, picking up thin fabric and tying it at the waist with a ribbon so that it gathers like piped icing around the body.
Not every designer can transform a Mishka Ivanovic dress so easily, but the look is one of her signatures. And it’s not hard to see why. It is easily two dresses in one.
After wearing her popular Metis dress, I also discovered that it can easily be transformed into a top if you believe (or fold the fabric in half at the chest and let the sheer fabric gather around your legs) and wear it with a pair of baggy jeans. . When I saw Ivanovic ahead of her off-calendar show, which took place in a townhouse on West 10th street three days before the official start of New York Fashion Week, she almost marveled at the flexibility of her designs. “I’ve never thought of wearing it like that…we have to shoot it like that,” she told me before I showed her photos hours before, where I’d worn the dress the other two ways she got away with it. was a previous photo, shifting it a bit for what felt right in the moment.
Like most young designers who seemingly go viral overnight and are suddenly all over your life, Ivanovic told me she can’t believe how much and how quickly the New York fashion set has caught on. with Buci. He has even worn Bella Hadid. “Every time someone tells me they love the brand or I see someone out on the street wearing it I don’t care,’How did they find us?’“
If not through Instagram or TikTok then probably through a friend, I recommend. And she nodded before saying that her goal is really to design the kind of pieces that make you feel so beautiful, you have to tell someone else about them, in the hope that they feel great too.
About dresses like the Metis dress, which spread the name of her brand like a wildfire of word of mouth through the best clothing in New York, she said, “If we are making clothes and making clothes that are new in the world we are in. we don’t need more clothes, I wanted the longevity of every garment we produce to be as long as possible. We change as people, and our style changes, and our shape changes…”
And so she thought, is there a way to make a garment that will last through these different periods of our lives? “And we’re not sick of wearing it because we can wear it in so many different ways,” she said. “And so I think it was really about trying to make the life of every garment that we’re putting out as long as possible by making it. more than a single garment.”
Most of her garments are handmade in New York – with a handful of pieces produced in Portugal – because she is as inspired by the city as the residents who love her clothes. She studied at Parsons and has lived in the city for six years now. “I feel like I’ve been here long enough that the city has become part of my subconscious. And most of these pieces [Spring 2025] The collection is, specifically, things that I want to wear in the city, and the kinds of things that are for the city.”
They’re not amazing, she said, but definitely, “a little bit more out there, and things that I think you can only wear in a city like New York. I wanted to lean into things that are more fun! Like transparent ponchos and fluffy feathers and beaded chiffon and miniskirts… I feel really inspired by the freedom that New York gives us to be who we want to be.”
At the show, each chair held a handful of rose petals in a paper cup, and a live band played softly in the background as guests drank champagne from coupe glasses. Everyone was given a transparent poncho to wear and arranged so that the different pastel colors created the illusion of an ombre rainbow. Models glided down the runway in lace mini dresses, embellished two-pieces and feather tops. Some danced, others held hands, and one fanned herself with a large comic fan made of long black plumes.
After the show ended, guests threw rose petals at the models, as one would at a wedding. And while most runway shows can hardly compare to close friends’ weddings, Buci’s can. Instead of rushing out the door at the end of the show, friends and editors embraced him, a handful wearing the brand itself. Many stopped to take photos of each other on plush vintage armchairs with transparent Buci fabric layered over them. There were whispers about what everyone would be buying—the collection is already available to shop—with words of encouragement from overheard strangers.
And just as I left someone walked up to me and pointed to my Buci dress that was worn as a top and said, “I’m going to do that with me!”
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