The ‘grandpa’ style staples are back in fashion

Josh O'Connor in the type of thin knitwear that is central to the revival of grandfather style

Josh O’Connor in the type of thin knitwear that is central to the revival of grandfather style – Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Certain gentlemen, your time has come. Gen Z declared grandad style the hottest way to dress for autumn. As a recent story in GQ magazine pointed out, what were once considered grandfather’s wardrobe staples are being rediscovered by young men. That trusty old cardigan, tucked in the elbows and lovingly tossed about, is a damn sight more stylish than a pair of logo-covered trainers, they seem to have finally realised.

We’ve seen the rise of “allotted grandpa” and “coastal grandpa” as social media trends in recent years, so it’s clear that the older man is finally having his time in the sartorial sun. It’s about time; Look at David Hockney’s 87-year-old all-passion, or author and interior guru Nicky Haslam’s flamboyant style at 85.

“If we’re defining grandpa-core with chunky knits, loafers and soft shoulder St. Michael blazers sourced from Vinted, grandpa style is everywhere right now,” says Zak Maoui, style director of Gentleman’s Journal. “It’s a more laissez-faire approach, rather than looking more structured and complicated. Lots of big ties, soft knits and trousers.”

Nicky Haslam, 85, at the Royal Academy of ArtsNicky Haslam, 85, at the Royal Academy of Arts

Impressively stylish 85-year-old Nicky Haslam at the Royal Academy of Arts – Dave Bennett/Getty Images

Perhaps it goes hand in hand with how the fashion industry is reshaping the narrative of the older man; see Pierce Brosnan, 71 years old as the new face of Giorgio Armani, Mr. Armani himself fit as a fiddle hosting a big soiree in New York last week at the age of 90, or Sir Antony Hopkins, 86 years old, as the face of Loewe back in 2022. The influence of this last brand is a certain case in the rise of the grandad as a style icon in recent years. The acclaimed Spanish label has built a reputation for the kind of clothing that would happily make your very eccentric grandfather happy (albeit at stratospheric prices); knitted shaggy in renegade colors and patterns, slip-on shoes and acre corduroy and heritage fabrics.

True channels of grandfather style, Dick Cavett and Gay TaleseTrue channels of grandfather style, Dick Cavett and Gay Talese

True grandfather-style conduits, Dick Cavett and Gay Talese – Efren Landaos/Getty Images

So what does grandad style mean? Firstly, we’re not for stereotyping what the oldest wears these days – he’s just as likely to don skinny jeans and trainers as slacks and slippers. That said, there are some heavy pastiche tropes in the dad look and it’s telling that the younger generation of men were eager to adopt them; sweater vests on Timothee Chalamet, crafty knit cardigans on Harry Styles, oversized trousers on Jacob Elordi. Dadeo’s style focuses on classy knitwear that’s a little more interesting than your standard, crew neck – oversized cardigans, sleeveless tops with an Argyll pattern.

Harry Styles opting for an oversized granny-centric suitHarry Styles opting for an oversized granny-centric suit

Harry Styles opts for an oversized fit for grandma – Kevin Mazur/WireImage

Jacob Elordi makes headlines for his appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon decked out in a classic grandfatherly knitJacob Elordi makes headlines for his appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon decked out in a classic grandpa knit

Jacob Elordi makes headlines for his appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon decked out in a casual, grandfather-style knitwear – NBC/NBCUniversal

“Knitting is key, and I have two knits that lean into grandpa’s heart,” says Maoui. “Not only is there something comforting about grandpa style, but it’s comforting to wear something that reminds you of your own grandfather.”

There is also a softer version of the suit; looser trousers, softer jackets, all beautiful after spending his working life in restrictive suits. See also shoes, which tend to be slip on and not so “straight” on them and the fact that the shirt is usually in a brushed cotton check and brownish textured rather than pristinely starched and a sharp collar. Dressing up dad has charm and softness. That is not to say patronizing in any way; it’s about clothes that are full of character, that are extremely comfortable, rather than being deliberately designed to be ostentatious or flashy. So what are the hallmark pieces?

Knitwear

From the joy of the chunky cable knit or butter cash, swaddling you against the cruel world. Knitwear is a quiet wardrobe joy, and a sensual pleasure. The sweater vest has seen a renaissance in recent years, fueled by 90s nostalgia, and is falling right into the grandad playbook. See also the cardigan, which today is something of a gender up status symbol; types of shaggy alpaca in heavy intarsia or even on James Bond. Fuzzy knits need a bit of structure, so pair with skinny jeans or under a blazer for a cohesive look.

Patchwork cardigan, £360, sheep.com

Plaid shirts

Again, a fairly run-of-the-mill wardrobe staple that has been embraced as super cool by Gen Z. Plaid shirts have a nerdiness that compliments your credentials and doesn’t require the amount of fussiness that a crisp white shirt does. . There’s a bit of a “City Boy” about wearing an ice-white shirt with chinos too; plaid is weaker and more muted.

Brushed flannel shirt, £29, charlestyrwhitt.com

Slip-on shoes

Sales of smart shoes have declined in recent years, partly due to the ubiquity of formal trainers but also the preference for easier, less painful and more solid types. See the slip-on in all its forms; loafers, slippers and moccasins. There is a sense of calm tranquility to them that is inviting. Add “sockless socks” or, for extra kudos, go the opposite and opt for skinny ribbed types. They will look eccentric and just a little whimsical. Also, they are hot.

Boston oiled leather shoes, £110, birkenstock.com

Soft silhouettes

Maoui points to the rise of vintage as an integral part of the grandad-centric aesthetic; a suit that is less precise in its proportions and has a bit of a give in, especially if it’s from the era of looser styles, such as the 50s or 80s. Softer shoulders on the jackets, a little slouch on the trousers, and a material with a certain texture and life – corduroy for example, or heritage herringbone or check, perhaps. Forget the flashy costumes, there’s an abundance of joy to be found in the pleasant mist instead.

Corduroy blazer, £110, marksandspencer.com

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