The Flower of Scotland! Why Scottish fashion is having a moment

Last week Anya Taylor-Joy, Jennifer Lawrence and Rosamund Pike descended on Drummond Castle in Perthshire, Scotland, for a fashion extravaganza not seen since 1955. The event? The Dior 2025 cruise show, which nods to Scotland’s sartorial heritage through tartan, leather, felts and brocade. Known as the “Versailles of Scotland”, the venue was a fitting place to pay tribute to France and Scotland’s historic alliance (Mary Queen of Scots was raised in exile at the French court, and both countries share an affection for the bPápa), with the pipers’ parade closing the proceedings. Creative director Maria Grazia Chirui even enlisted the help of Scottish artisans and designers, including Le Kilt, Harris Tweed and Johnstons of Elgin, lending authenticity to the business, with a nod to Mary Queen of Scots’ love of embroidery in the collection .

jennifer lawrence, delphine arnault and anya taylor rejoice at the 2025 dior cruise show held at drummond castle on june 3, 2024 in perthshire, scotland

Sairee NicLeod

Dior’s departure is just the latest evidence that Scottish fashion is having a “moment”. Take kilts, for example. They have never been more popular than at the start of this year, when searches for them increased by 92 per cent after Claudia Winkleman patronized them for her Scottish reality TV show, The Traitors. For many street stylists, Winkleman was just proving what they already knew: pleated, tartan and school girl-ish, kilts are cool. We have London Fashion Week wünderkind Chopova Lowena to thank for that, as she made the à la mode skirt style back in September 2022, featuring it consistently in her collections ever since. As Maria Grazia Chiuri noted backstage at Dior, the flea’s real appeal is that it’s punk. “The kilt is part of Scottish tradition but also the punk moment in fashion, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen have worked with this before me so it was a big responsibility. In some ways the Barra jacket and skirt is a reflection of Mr. Dior’s kilt and jacket.”

But it wasn’t just the poets who made Winkleman trendy. Her full clan-esque wardrobe of argyle knits, polo necks and ankle boots was personified in Scotland, and she gave local brands such as Le Kilt, Barrie Cashmere and Johnstons of Elgin a big boost, inspiring a million pieces to “get The Traitors look” . With summer still in sight, it’s no wonder we’re still opting for that tried and tested formula of mini skirts with knee highs and knitwear: a look popular north of the border. cousins. Factor in the current penchant for nineties fashion, and it’s easy to see why the Buffy Summers look reigns supreme.

Another thing that is undoubtedly driving our love of Scottish fashion is the sustainability of the brands, many of which focus on traditional craftsmanship, rather than fast fashion. Isabel Hendry, who designs hand-woven leather accessories, believes that consumers want pieces they feel good about owning. “Customers are more interested in the foundation behind the work,” she explains. “Luxury has a responsibility to preserve, celebrate and develop craft in Scotland, and I feel passionately about my place within that. I wouldn’t be creating the work I do if I hadn’t grown up in a Irish community where traditional crafts, stories, music and culture were a big part of my daily life.”

Hendry is far from alone when it comes to cool luxury brands up in Scotland, including contemporary handbag designer Strathberry, womenswear brand Siobhan Mackenzie and menswear Kestin. When fashion PR Lucy Johnson decided to quit her job at Chanel and move her young family to the Scottish countryside, she didn’t gamble on the amount of local brands they might need. “At first glance one might think that Scotland is so raw and rustic that there really is no luxury – but this couldn’t be more wrong,” she shares. “Having lived here for over two years now, I am continually discovering that there is a whole life of luxury that I never knew existed. There are many beautiful brands, hotels, restaurants, and major luxury events spread across Scotland.”

If you need any further evidence of Scotland’s cool factor, then look to the small screen. The final series of The Crown, which featured Kate and William’s love story, was largely based north of the border at the University of St Andrews. Meanwhile, it all started (and ended) in the university town of Edinburgh, another of Netflix’s. Then there’s Richard Gadd, star of the hugely popular Baby Reindeer, whose funny tones come from Wormit in Fife. Innkeepers have been on trend for a while now, since Iwan and Manuela Wirth (art gallery, Hauser & Wirth) opened The Fife Arms in Braemar back in 2018 (featuring Iseabal Hendry). And while plans for Soho House in Glasgow have been scrapped, that could even add to its appeal. All the cool kids are rocking country rock and having wild Saltburn-esque parties anyway: just ask Lady Lola Bute, whose 24th birthday celebrations created endless Instagram and TikTok fodder.

A model presents a dior creation during the dior croisiere cruise 2025 fashion show on June 3, 2024 at Drummond Castle, in Crieff, Scotland photo by andy buchanan afp photo by andy buchananafp via getty imagesA model presents a dior creation during the dior croisiere cruise 2025 fashion show on June 3, 2024 at Drummond Castle, in Crieff, Scotland photo by andy buchanan afp photo by andy buchananafp via getty images

ANDY BUCHANAN

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