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Call it a Texan girl, or a cool cowboy; the trend of Western wear has arrived. From Beyoncé’s new country single (with a red carpet makeover to match), to catwalk interpretations by Louis Vuitton and Molly Goddard, there are new references everywhere you look in pop culture.
Born in the wilds of the North American West, cowpeas are nothing new – they’ve been around for 200 years. “Whether it’s on a farm, at a festival, or walking the streets of London, the Western look is a trend that keeps coming back,” says Marcus Fairfax Fountaine, co-founder of Norfolk-based brand Fairfax & Favor.
So if you’re a city geek, how do you land without looking like the hired entertainer at Lottie’s eighth birthday party?
After spending my childhood summers wearing a name tag “Howdy! How can I help you?” at a rodeo and country music festival in my hometown of Calgary, Canada, it turns out I have a little practice in this area. My wardrobe is stuffed with boots, bolo tights and jazz belts – but instead of pretending for these pieces to fade into my wardrobe now that I live in London, I find ways to incorporate them into my urban style.
Elle Macpherson is a celebrity who has just the right balance. She paired her pearly boots from Milanese atelier Paris Texas with a more subtle fringe skirt set by Melbourne label Clea, giving a master class in interpreting the trend without looking like you’re wearing a fancy dress.
Combining the “country queen” trend with some “quiet luxury” style principles works well. Westerners know to buy real natural and breathable, like cotton, as well as durable leather. Heritage and satisfyingly worn in, like vintage. The kind of quality style principles that anyone, anywhere can get involved with.
No matter what your style, these are the four essential Western items I’d recommend trying.
The boots
Western-style boots are the easiest way to incorporate a bit of rodeo flair into your wardrobe. A pointed toe will sharpen up a pair of jeans, a style trick that Katie Holmes paraded down the streets of New York.
If you’re looking for a true Western label, Alberta Boot Company has custom-made pairs for King Charles and the Prince and Princess of Wales, while Texas-based City Boots gives a classic silhouette the candy-colored coquette treatment.
For British and Americana class, Penelope Chilvers has been making Western class styles for years: “Our UK customers love to wear them in the city or the country and our US customers say they are the softest boots, they are light and comfortable. ever spent,” she says.
Handmade leather, £1,041, Brother Vellies; Silver leather, £269, Penelope Chilvers
Isabel Marant Suede, £264.60, Vestiaire; Leather lightning, £1,326, Boots of the City
Western shirt
“I love fringe!” announcing Ryan Gosling as Ken in the Barbie film, entering the California sunshine with its glorious white winged stream. Cowboy Ken may be just one character, but his shirt is very real, and available to buy from Hollywood-based brand H Bar C.
While Western shirts can easily veer into the kitsch rather than the cool, with all their campy piping and rhinestone-studded embroidery. Counteract this by pairing the shirt with an understated half bottom: black denim or a monochrome skirt and slim leather boots will do the trick – they don’t have to be of the cowy variety.
Native American cultures have influenced much of modern Western style, including geometric patterns and beaded designs. Check out Ralph Lauren’s collaboration with Naiomi Glasses, a 24-year-old Navajo artist and textile designer, for a Native-designed piece to cherish for years to come.
Calico print cotton linen blend, £319, Polo Ralph Lauren x Naomi Glasses; Tencel lyocell, £165, Nudie jeans
Lemaire silk blend and cotton linen, £495, Net-a-Porter; St Lawrence printed shirt, £285.60, Vestiaire
Suede zip top, £295, Fairfax & Favor
The jeans
This is simple: go for boot cut or wide leg jeans. A real cowboy wouldn’t be caught with his jeans tucked into his boots – it cuts the line of your legs and makes them look shorter. Although it was more common to see women wearing their boots outside when skinny jeans were on the scene.
At the Dior Paris Fashion Week show, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri executed the proportions flawlessly when she took to the runway to take a bow. The TelegraphLisa Armstrong was there, and she noted that Chiuri was “wearing jeans, a black cashmere sweater and the most perfect black cowboy boots I’ve ever seen. All Dior.”
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can be literal with the trend and try “horse” jeans, a rather avant-garde, curved silhouette worn by the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and social media.
Slim front high waisted flare jeans, £39.50, Marks & Spencer; Citizens of Humanity horse jumper, £350, Self-identifiers
Studded wide leg jumper, £198, Reformation
Put some edge on it
Now this is a strong look. Wear a fringe on anything and you’ll get instant cowgirl appeal – no need to add anything else. Suede is the most typical material for fringe garments, but if you want to make a sparkling statement that Dolly Parton herself would approve of, check out south London label KNWLS – they’ve released a fringe dress in their spring-summer 2024 collection .For those who want less commitment but still want to try some Parton-esque ritz, fashion rental platform Hurr has Nadine Merabi’s rhinestone cowgirl minidress for a fraction of the price.
For a more casual everyday style, Chemena Kamali’s debut collection for French fashion house Chloé put a Parisian twist on the look with glossy fringe blazers and slinky open heels. Back in Blighty, Fairfax & Favor are also enthusiastic about the new Western edge: “We wanted to emphasize the dynamic movement of the edge as a focal point,” says Fairfax Fountaine. “[The collection] takes equestrian-inspired fashion to the next level and combines country and Western influences with our signature, classic British silhouette.”
Wool jacket, £250, Balzac
Embroidered suede jacket, £350, Rixo
Suede jacket, £450, puzzles
Suede bag, £295, Fairfax & Favor; Beaded bag, £100, Rixo
