by The skin care industry is a lucrative and successful industry but it’s no secret that those with melanin-rich skin tones have been failing in recent years.
Historically, skin care testing has focused on lighter skin, despite reactions such as inflammation or irritation appearing differently on darker tones, so it’s no surprise that there are some consumers who feel invisible.
Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty helped usher in inclusivity in makeup, with over 50 foundation shades that expanded beyond the ten strict versions of the same beige we’ve always known. The Fenty effect rippled through the beauty industry and mainstream brands such as Dior, Cover Girl and Revlon followed suit, introducing 40 shades into their lines in the year following Fenty’s launch. But the strong passion to revive the skin care industry is yet to happen.
Although aspects of skin care remain the same, there is no one-size-fits-all. Depending on the level of melanin, black and brown skin have unique characteristics that require special attention in skin care. Melanin-rich skin is at risk of stubborn post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark circles, and acne scarring, a study published in 2018 in the National Library of Medicine showed.
In some cases, the Fitzpatrick skin phototype, a classification system used to categorize the spectrum of skin colors, is used to develop and test skin care and makeup products. Thomas B Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, first introduced the scale in 1975, and dermatologists have used it for decades to determine how different skin tones respond to UV rays and how to treat skin disorders. In recent years the scale has been removed as highly inaccurate and biased, with only two of the six categories covering the broad brown spectrum and only one covering the many shades of black.
Melanin-rich skin is prone to stubborn post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark circles, and acne scarring
Multi-ethnic UK consumers spend 25 per cent more on health and beauty products, but 22 per cent choose specialist shops, and that figure rises to 30 per cent among black women. A Superdrug study revealed that 70 per cent of black and Asian women felt their beauty needs were not being met by the high street.
Enter the savvy entrepreneurs who are carving out a space for themselves in the skin care industry instead of waiting for change. HUE, a brand created to help explain skin care to people of color for the first time. Co-founders and close friends British-Somali NHS doctor Hani Hassan and British-Arab architect Mona Haidar launched HUE with a vision to meet the neglected needs of brown and black skin.
Like many others who have dealt with hyperpigmentation, I spent most of my teenage years sitting in front of the mirror frantically slapping on various miracle creams and praying that my hard work would pay off. But HUE didn’t exist back then, and as it turned out, I knew very little about the mechanics of my skin and why those creams weren’t working, which is frustrating.
HUE was “purely driven by personal necessity,” says Dr. Hassan. Spending £3,000 a year on dermatological treatments for her acne and dark marks, she came to the stark conclusion that many of the existing products recommended to her were futile in dealing with her condition.
“It’s no wonder that any of this stuff works, because the production of knowledge is not based on people like me, it’s not based on my skin. The amount of money I was spending was so tight financially, because I was funding my degree myself. He was kind of my villain base,” says the 28-year-old.
Before HUE came into existence, Dr. Hassan started out on YouTube, racking up thousands of views over time as she gave advice on everything from getting rid of hyperpigmentation and clearing acne. With 40k followers on X subscribers and 1000k on the video platform, the London-based influencer has become a hyperpigmentation guru, many, including myself, taking care of her trial routines. Her newfound fame convinced her that HUE had “legs to stand on.”
In her first video, which received 1.6 million views, Dr Hassan says skin care companies are “not targeting us as the target audience” and we often fall through the cracks. “I want my focus to be on people from marginalized backgrounds… what you see on the drugstore shelves is normatively white,” she continued. “Hyperhousing is extremely common among people of color, but there is little scientific data available to address this issue. I have collected and reviewed the existing literature and put together a tentative approach.”
An angel investment of £250,000 saw the launch of the highly anticipated serum, the SUPRA-FADE, formulated with seven active ingredients and antioxidants and specifically targeting hyperpigmentation. By the time HUE launched in December last year, there were around 6,500 people on the waiting list.
The aesthetic is important at HUE. Along with the serum, customers can purchase the SUPRA-EGG, a decorative gold-plated case handcrafted by metal artisans in Turkey. “Visually it needs to be more than a standardized clinical skincare brand,” says Haidar, the self-proclaimed “image maker” and creative director of HUE.
“I think that in the beauty industry our diversity and depth is often overlooked and we want HUE to be a reflection of that enormous richness. We wanted HUE to honor that and be a reflection of the layered beauty that exists in our communities,” she says.
Above all, HUE promises that its products are a combination of scientific methodology with an added depth and understanding of the many colors of the people it targets.. HUE is already making waves and is being celebrated by skin care influencers in the industry who have praised it on platforms like Instagram and TikTok. The brand may be the catalyst needed to change the skincare industry.
“It has to do more than work, it has to touch people’s hearts because it’s like we’re saying ‘we see you’,” says Dr Hassan. “I’m not here to sell you snake oil. This is not the shilling for you products, we want to do something that is closely related.”
HUE isn’t the only brand in the game helping to diversify the beauty industry. New products that cater to the specific needs of black and brown skin are growing and becoming more mainstream. Here are five more comprehensive skincare brands to be on your radar…
Afro Hair & Skin Company
For those of us who have long struggled to find the perfect and affordable hair care to revive those curls, Afro Hair and Skin Company has come in to put us out of our misery. They are not just a hair company, but sell a range of natural and organic skincare products containing local British ingredients to create a healthy blend of goodness for your skin. Their best products include the Rebirth Glow Recovery Face Mask and the Perfectly Balanced Facial Oil, which promises a healthy complex for a rich skin tone.
Price: from £11.00
theafrohairandskincompany.com
Hyperskin
Launched in 2019 by ex-lawyer turned beauty influencer Desiree Verdejo, Hyperskin effectively targets dark spots and hyperpigmentation using a combination of clinical and potent plant-based ingredients. It is a results-oriented ‘hyper-efficient’ brand rooted in multiculturalism and genuine leather. The product that started it all is the Hyper Even Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C Serum.
Price: from £22.13
hyperskin.com
Okiki skin care
Founded in 2016 by a mother and daughter duo, Okiki skincare creates natural, highly crafted products that draw from the founders’ Nigerian heritage roots. Okiki is a unique blend of Yoruba origins and British influence and home to everything from hair care to their best selling Kwame Face cream.
Price: from £7.50
okikiskincare.com
Epara skin care
If you’ve spent the tail end of winter trying to save the weather damage to your skin, Epara is for you. Just as its meaning in Yoruba suggests, Epara “cocoon” promises to revive your skin. Winners of Best New Product For Dark Skin’ in the Grazia Beauty Awards 2017 and Marie Claire’s ‘Best Cleanser for Hyperpigmentation’ in 2017, Epara is a luxurious skincare brand designed for women of color and the unique skin issues they face. The brand uses pure African botanicals to create healing and rejuvenating products.
Price: from £35
epara.com
The beauty of Liha
You may have noticed that shea butter, also known as mother nature’s conditioner, has gone from being the obscure ingredient listed on the back of your hair or body cream to the popular choice for natural skin care. The founders of Liha Beauty, Liha Okunniwa and Abi Oyepitan, have recognized its magical benefits and bottled them straight from the “branch of life” to their digital shelves. The brand was created out of a need for vegan-friendly skin care products, blending natural African plant-based ingredients with English aromatherapy. You will find a wide range of products from their African soap to the best selling Idan Oil.
Price: from £25
lihabeauty.com
