by With an endless stream of new ‘must have’ products entering the skincare industry, it can be hard to figure out what really works. Often a case of trial and error, many of us will experiment with different products and ingredients in the hope that we will see results in time. Although this sometimes happens, the elimination process can be expensive, time-consuming, and sometimes dangerous.
But what other way to shop for skin care, one that takes the guesswork out of it? Enter the custom-made. Gaining traction recently, more and more consumers are buying into brands that offer personalized products formulated with your specific skin needs and goals in mind. “The public is starting to understand that one size does not fit all and that a personalized approach to skincare can deliver better results,” says Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of Klira.
The concept makes sense. Instead of wasting money on unnecessary products, these leading brands will recommend specific formulations to address your specific needs (after an online skin assessment). “Different skin types need different ingredients and formulations,” confirms Dr Craythorne. “Like shoes or clothes, creams need to ‘fit’ the skin and some styles or, in the case of creams, formulations are better suited to certain skin types than others.”
How do personalized skin care brands work?
To find out what your skin needs, most brands will use a digital online skin assessment tool. Using questionnaires and/or images, the tool will be able to gather information not only about your skin, but also about your lifestyle to generate personalized recommendations.
At Klira, the process begins with an in-depth questionnaire covering medical history, lifestyle and skin type. “The reason there are so many questions is that we are essentially replacing an in-clinic appointment,” explains Dr Craythorne. Customers then upload photos of their face before their ‘SkinSize’ is calculated – “this is our secret weapon to help you understand the epigenetics and genetics of your skin.” A four-step routine is then devised, which includes a customized Klira product.
Bespoke skin care brands Dermatica and Skin + Me work the same way. After short online questionnaires and image uploads, the expert dermatology teams will prescribe a plan. As with Klira, custom products will contain prescription strength ingredients (such as tretinoin) that are not available over the counter. “Different strengths and ingredients are used depending on the individual customer’s concerns,” explains Dr. Ash Sharma, MD for Dermatica.
All of these brands work on a subscription model, meaning you pay a monthly fee (there are options to pay quarterly or annually) to receive regular additions to your custom formula. “The formulation and strengths of the ingredients will change every month to evolve with the skin’s tolerance,” says Dr Jason Thomson, dermatologist and head of medicine at Skin + Me. “Customers can also check in with an expert to discuss their progress at any time, for free.”
What are the benefits of personalized skin care?
“Personalized skincare gives people access to the right combinations of active ingredients to target their specific skin concerns, at a concentration that will work best for their skin,” says Dr Malvina Cunningham, consultant dermatologist at And Begin (sister brand Skin + Me). Rather than using generic off-the-shelf products, customized skin care ensures that your specific skin concerns are addressed. “If your skin really needs certain ingredients, we put them in – and if there are ingredients that the skin would do better without (like certain preservatives or cosmeceuticals), we leave them out,” a says Dr. Craythorne.
Custom also means it’s fresh. At Klira and Dermatica, the products are blended in London laboratories and delivered directly to the customer’s door within 48 hours so that the formulation is degraded and less degraded. “People want fresh produce with little added preservatives,” says Dr Craythorne, “they want ingredients that are at their peak potential and haven’t been stored on the shelf for months or years”.
Freshness aside, many personalized skin services offer access to a dermatology specialist for a check-in. “Thousands of people across the country are on the waiting list for a dermatology appointment,” says Dr Sharma. “There are currently more than 8,000 people waiting for an appointment in Scotland alone, and while those who can afford it go privately, the prescription fees mean the vast majority of people in the UK cannot access the these services.” By offering online consultations, these brands have democratized access to seeing dermatology experts for treatment at affordable prices.
Are there any risks associated with personalized skin care?
“Whilst I understand that not everyone can see a dermatologist, the current trend of virtual consultations and prescriptions has unfortunately led to a worrying increase in misdiagnosis,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London. “It’s not unusual for me to see four to six patients a week who have been diagnosed with acne through an online prescription service, but actually have rosacea or vice versa.”
The point of having regular check-ins with a dermatologist specialist is to minimize these risks. “Our dermatology team will not treat any skin condition that they are not confident of diagnosing from the photographs provided,” says Dr Thomson. “And while there are always potential risks when applying treatments to the skin – the personalized benefit of irritating ingredients, such as retinoids and azelaic acid, means that they can be applied at lower strengths and gradually increased to reduce the risk reduce this.”
“The risks associated with custom skin care are far less than the ‘DIY’ model,” says Dr Craythorne. In her practice, Dr. Craythorne often sees patients who have made their skin worse by using the wrong products and/or incompatible ingredients. According to her, the main risk associated with personalized skin care is that the customer may think they have seen a dermatologist when they have seen a ‘skin care expert’ – which is not the same thing.
“I think it’s important to see a real dermatologist, or a dermatologist-led team because that’s how skin nuances and diagnoses are detected and the best plans are made,” she says.
The best personalized skincare brands in the business…
1. dermis
Health entrepreneur Dwayne D’Souza noticed the need for dermatologically recommended skin care, under Dermatica. Dermatica launched the first prescription-only skincare online in the UK, back in 2018 and has been a huge success ever since (in the last two years, monthly subscribers have doubled). Simply and effortlessly, “you complete an online consultation before our team of dermatological experts prescribes your personalized formula,” explains Dr Sharma. These formulas can treat anything from acne and pigmentation to rosacea and fine lines with prescription-strength ingredients (like tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, ivermectin). Prices start from £18.67 per bottle.
2. Skin + Me
Landing on the personalized skin care scene in 2020, Skin + Me is another virtual service with the same goal – to democratize dermatology. The team of consultant dermatologists and pharmacists treat acne, pigmentation, rosacea and fine lines with custom-blended creams containing prescription-only ingredients (such as clindamycin and tretinoin) as well as other actives (such as niacinamide). Packed in a recyclable aluminum tube, the ‘Daily Doser’ costs £29.99 to supply monthly and to ensure no product is wasted, the clever tube dispenses the perfect amount every time.
3. And Begin
“While studying the habits and feedback of hundreds of thousands of Skin + Me consumers, we realized that middle-aged women want more from their makeup,” says Dr. Cunningham of the catalyst for creating And Begin (launched in years). “It was clear that this consumer wants the best skin benefits of prescription ingredients in a personalized product tailored to their life stage.” The process is similar – with an online consultation, followed by a prescribed serum which costs £39.99 a month – but the ingredients are slightly different, focusing on firmness, brightness, even skin tone and hydration.
4. Get a Harley
Not a personalized skincare brand per se, GetHarley is a platform that connects you with the UK’s best clinicians for expert skincare advice. To get started, simply answer an online survey about your skin concerns/goals before you’re matched with a clinician (which could be an aesthetic doctor, plastic surgeon, dermatologist or facial expert) . You will then have the opportunity to discuss your skin – whether you need advice on a specific condition (such as rosacea or acne) or if you need help developing a routine that works for you. A 30 minute virtual consultation starts at £40.
5. Clary
Dr. Craythorne saw a gap in the market for luxurious skin care with prescription ingredients. “As a dermatologist, I knew I could develop formulas that were truly medical grade for those who could benefit.” During the pandemic, she developed an at-home assessment tool for patients and since then, Klira has been able to offer these customized formulas at scale. Costing £49 for a four-week supply, the bespoke formula – the ‘Klira special’ – contains a blend of soothing ingredients and prescription actives, tailored to your skin’s needs.
6. Uncouth
Another personalized skin service, Uncouth starts with a medical skin questionnaire and ends with a bi-monthly delivery of a customized cream (costing £48.50). At its base, the cream contains a blend of moisturizing ingredients, including vitamin E and triglycerides, to support the skin’s barrier. The base is then supplemented with prescription-only activators to target individual concerns. As well as creams, Uncouth can prescribe oral medicines (when needed) from £15 a month.
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