by Paris Fashion Week has come to a close after offering some of the most exciting catwalk trends for the spring 2025 season. From new chore jackets to soft trouser suits, these are the pieces we’ll be wanting to add to our wardrobes.
The feminine chore jacket: Chloe
Chemena Kamali She’s single-handedly sparking a resurgence of trinket-laden, feminine, boho style over at Chloe, but if the whole shebang is too much then do as Sienna Miller did when she took to the front row of the show and rock the look more slender. , modern vibe. Case in point, the many blouse jacket variations created by Kamali using the 1970s blouse pattern. Whether they’re crossed or longline, they’re a nice update to the chore staid jacket look, which has been everywhere for a while now. One-piece wear, costume-transformation. BH
The sarong skirt: Schiaparelli
At Schiaparelli, American woman Daniel Roseberry was on fire and she had slick glamor this season, whether in turquoise mermaid-y wet-look or upscale contoured denim. The collection aimed to equip customers for cruising and travel but there couldn’t be a better piece to luxuriate in next summer than one of the sarong skirts. Sporty but also good, this is a piece that would complement summer city high dressing with a crisp white shirt for beachside elegance with nothing more than a swimsuit and a cocktail. BH
The floral dress: Loewe
Loewe Jonathan Anderson’s collections are crisp and high-concept, but this is also a designer very aware of his commercial influence. He flooded his runways with variations of a light gossamer floral dress that had a hoop at the bottom, creating an ultra-chic silhouette that would make anyone look smarter about a big lunch. A-listers and the art crowd will no doubt embrace the pure version of the idea. But on a broader level, this could come back for shameless, roomy floral frocks. Women all over the world will be happy. BH
The flowing silk dress: Victoria Beckham
Backstage after unveiling her collection on Friday evening, Victoria Beckham was extremely proud of the resin designs that opened her show. But the effortless slip silk dresses – which were like melted chocolate poured down the body to slim and sculpt in all the right places – were sure to win. Beckham has already had a sales boom thanks to her equally carefully constructed Bella dress, loved by royals and celebrities alike, and these designs look set to follow suit. The even better news? Models wore their flats. BH
The jump suit: Hermes
Along with the rest of Paris, Hermes creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is championing knee-length skirts, shorter jackets and fluid trousers with side zips that allow for an adjustable silhouette. Much of their offering here was, as usual at Hermes, in leather and shades of sand, khaki and raspberry. Sometimes it all seems rare – Hermes, more than any other house, has not always been about the bags (and to an extent the shoes). But the jumpsuit, like one Lauren Hutton worn in the front row of the Saint Laurent show last week, which summed up Vanhee-Cybulski’s lighthearted, nonchalant encounter . LA
A cinched in blazer: Alexander McQueen
I wasn’t able to attend Sean McGirr’s debut for Alexander McQueen in March, so I can’t judge whether he deserved the almost universal fanfare. If it did, this is certainly a significant improvement. McGirr’s tailoring is sharp if not perfect – some of the hanging jacket sleeves could do with some refinement. Shoulders were emphasized, as McQueen should, but not cartoonishly. Chiffon evening wear seemed commercially viable, although it lacked the detailed elegance of its predecessor, Sarah Burton. LA
Pale trench coat: Akris
While other shows aim to shock, Akris, the quiet Swiss label, focuses on wearable looks in luxurious fabrics. It makes a nice change. The trench coat may have started on the front lines of World War II, but it works just as well for urban wear today as it did for Humphrey Bogart. This bright stone version, with a relaxed tie belt, makes for effortless coverage. SS
Stripes Deluxe: Sakai
Chitose Abe, founder and designer at Sacai, is extremely innovative, creating new hybrids that transcend conventional dress codes. That makes her clothes timeless and useful. She often mixes athletic staples with classic codes, here she’s turned into a glamorous tunic with a demi-zhuzhy train at the back. For the right person, this is the evening wear that looks cool and relaxed without being pretentious. Coco Chanel would approve, you’d think, which is why there’s some talk of Abe as the left-field choice for the top (currently vacant) job in that house. LA
The cropped, collared jacket: Celine
Currently the front runner to take the top job at Chanel, Hedi Slimane (who stepped down on Wednesday) offered a refined, sophisticated play on classic Coco Chanel chic at Celine this season. It could be read as the final hearing. From cropped jackets (suede, beaded or wool) and knee-length (and shorter) pleated metallic skirts to flawless black sculptured evening wear (the distilled idea of Cristobal Balenciaga at its best), the Françoise Hardy wardrobe is essentially inspired by Paris. The models have tangling fringes of eyelashes, flicky eyeliner and Bambi legs. I love the jackets, blouses and the new bag with its pared-back hardware. But to wear the whole look head-to-toe you need to be thin and young (or ancient with complete attitude).
When I say models, don’t imagine that any of this was on the catwalk. The average-phobic Slimane stopped that lark a few years ago, preferring to launch new collections through highly polished videos. This one featured models in chateaux and large gardens (shadows of yesteryear at Marienbad, the classic 1961 art house styled by Coco Chanel). Selected journalists are invited to Celine’s left bank HQ to see the clothes up close – the work is amazing. LA
The sporty outer layer: Miu Miu
There were some fun ideas on the Miu Miu catwalk, from below-the-knee pleated skirts (the new favorite fad in Paris), top-box handbags, neat bomber jackets, sporty parkas, colorful trainers, blazers, geometric pattern, wool. trench coats… the list of wearable, but interesting pieces went on and on. Noteworthy: the neon ‘anti-blister’ sock that many of the models wore with their sandals. If Dr. Scholl hasn’t borrowed this idea by next summer, they need a change of leader. LA
The soft trouser suit: Louis Vuitton
Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has been playing with the 1980s vibe for a few seasons now – and he’s clearly enjoying it. This was lively and handsome. Broad shoulders and big puff sleeves, elongated bomber jackets, cycling shorts and bright primary colors suggest that the decade is still working its way through its system. But there is also a new softness. Flowing silk dresses, some short in the front and long in the back, confirmed a trend seen on catwalks in the past month. This drapey, navy trouser suit is striking – wearable and understated, does it signal a new era at a label best known for avant garde red carpet statements? LA
