by Instead of celebrating its 10th anniversary with a blowout party, the St. Louis Fashion Fund is staying true to its purpose and supporting the area’s economy with a year of special events.
Although recycling and domestic manufacturing are attractive in some cities, such initiatives are tied to the heritage of St. Louis. From the late 19thth century until the end of World War II, the city’s garment district was second only to New York City. In the ’50s, the number of clothing manufacturers in the city tripled, mainly due to junior tailors. Washington Avenue was once home to some of those companies and so many footwear manufacturers that it was called “Shoe Street, USA”.
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For the last ten years, the St. Louis has supported 800 local fashion businesses, established brands, key players, students and designers, including many who are members of the area’s refugee community. Together, this fashion community contributes $3.3 billion in revenue to the area.
Founded to help local brands get to the next level, the SLFF began raising $2.1 million in incubator funding for a two-year program that attracted national talent and led to the hiring of an executive director. In the following years, the group expanded its reach to support photographers, jewelry designers, makeup artists and other creative people related to fashion. There is also a renewed commitment to strengthen manufacturing and create jobs, retain employment and strengthen industry-related businesses no matter how small or large.
Michael Kors will be in conversation with Derek Blasberg on April 1 as part of the SLFF’s “Speaking of Fashion” series organized by Washington University in St. Louis and the Caleres footwear group, which is based there. A crowd of 800 is expected at the campus’ Graham Memorial Chapel, and the event will be streamed live. There will also be a trunk show in the area.
For Kors, the honor is professional and personal. The designer said, “I am honored to be a part of this extraordinary program which, for ten years now, has been at the forefront of local designers, students and fashion fans alike. My husband, Lance [LaPere] from the region of St. Louis, so it’s an opportunity to honor this community.”
Kors’ involvement is in line with several other leading names the organization has welcomed including Diane von Furstenberg, Iris Apfel and Andre Leon Talley. Among the people of St. Louis is Blasberg and model Karlie Kloss. Fashion followers focused on major runways in New York, Milan, Paris and London could give St. Louis and, perhaps anticipating the skeptics, is “Why St. Louis” launched by the SLFF. media campaign. In an effort to pave the way for the next generation of designers, the campaign is all about diversity, equity and inclusion; workforce development; job creation, and retention.
In addition to Caleres, who has supported the non-profit since its inception, among the sponsors of the anniversary year are the University of Washington, Edward Jones, Lewis Rice DeLux, Greater St. Louis Inc., Lou Fusz, US Bank, Audacy and Fox 2/KPLR 11.
Shut down post-pandemic – after giving up its incubator – the organization was ready to come out with a bang again to show St. Louis, the region and the US that the city is “still moving and shaking,” said SLFF co-founder Susan Sherman . His aim was to play “all the good” that is coming out of the city, not just for the fashion fund but for all his collaborators and partners.
In honor of the 10 year anniversary, 10 organizations were selected to highlight some of which would not receive adequate funding or publicity. They included a number of Black, Indigenous and people of color designers through the FwrdSociety, Mother Model Management and Gent Menswear Fashion.
Other commemorative events include a Feb. 18 runway show with Major League Soccer St. Louis team members. Louis City SC and potential soccer stars, who participate in the club’s Futures Program. Every last look will be curated by Dwight Carter of Gent Men’s Fashion Week, a little-publicized event that has been held in the city for many years.
Plans are also in place for the SLFF to lead Missouri’s first annual fashion lobby days in the state capital of Jefferson City. Nearly 100 leaders, educators, business owners and designers from Cape Girardeau, Columbia, Kansas City, Springfield and St. Louis have pledged. Louis to lobby and inform political powers about the economic impact of the industry. “I’m not sure” if political leaders are “aware” of that, Sherman said, “You know how [some] people don’t think of fashion as big business.” Representatives from third-generation sewing machine manufacturer Tacony – a 77-year-old company – will be among those on hand.
She noticed how some local sewers practiced special techniques in the countries they were from, such as Afghanistan or El Salvador. Improving those skills would eventually require funding and grants, which is why SLFF supporters will pitch their case to state politicians — jobs, economic development and internships this year.
“It’s all about funding. We now have the awareness in St. Louis. We have so many young designers, including those who are more like artisans, making jewelry and accessories. They love to work there. They see the potential and love the camaraderie. But it takes funding seriously. That’s where we always push and push,” Sherman said.
Allowing for the other problems and challenges that exist in the world and in the city, where revitalization is a priority, Sherman said that success depends on cutting through the noise. That’s why the anniversary stands as a reminder of the potential for growth and to improve the branding of the city. “It’s not something we’re doing. It is part of the city’s DNA. People in St. Louis love to talk about the [1904] World’s Fair. Well, they love talking about the history of fashion and looking at the old Washington Avenue buildings to say, ‘This is what it was – let’s bring it back.'”
After all Missouri is known as the “Show Me State,” Sherman said. “So it’s a matter of showcasing some of the best parts of the industry – people who are doing the work and asking, ‘How can we move this forward together?'” To launch its one-year celebration, SLFF welcomed Veronica Beard founders Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard to Neiman Marcus speaking earlier this year.
With nearly 301,600 residents, the city continues to strive to strengthen its garment district. The SLFF will be offering its insights when Downtown St. Louis revisits its 2017 study. Louis, we really need to increase our production capacity, cut and sew, and train pattern makers and sewers. Without that, business does not come. Designers want to see and be in production [based] close to where things are produced,” Sherman said.
To that end, The Collective Thread, a non-profit that provides small-batch production and empowers refugee women through free sewing classes in the St. Louis garment district. “What hasn’t happened in the middle of this country is the creation of a major manufacturing hub,” said Sherman, who noted that up-and-coming designers like Elena Velez and Carly Mark Puppets and Puppets have expressed interest. domestic manufacturing in the Midwest. “I can’t say it’s a joint effort. But if you don’t have it, or if you don’t take it, they’re not going to come. We know what’s going on across the country, but we’re focused on the Midwest.”
In addition to attracting new talent, SLFF’s Joan Berkman emphasized its aim to retain local graduates from the University of Washington and the Stevens Institute of Business & Art. “We don’t want them to go to New York, Chicago or LA. You have to stick with us, because we have the contacts, the relationships, the paid internships, mentoring and the jobs. And guess where they are settling and setting up their businesses? Here in St. Louis.”
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