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By the middle of the 20th century, some turkeys were growing so big, so fast their skeletons couldn’t keep up.
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Fast-growing turkeys may become less nutritious and develop streaky, white, slimy meat.
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Heritage turkeys that grow slowly and can reproduce naturally may be a more sustainable option.
Before the mass breeding programs of the early 20th century, turkeys took roughly 28 weeks gain their full size, growing at an estimated rate of about 0.75 to 1 pound per week, according to one study.
Some modern turkey breeds, such as the Broad Breast, can grow almost three times so fast, according to another estimate. Such rapid growth is not only a problem for the animals but also for farmers and consumers.
However, some scientists are searching for healthier breeding methods that are better for birds and more sustainable for farmers.
How did turkeys get so big
Much of the turkey’s rapid growth is in its breast, from which the white meat comes. Since the 1930s, American farmers have been cross-breeding turkeys to get bigger and bigger breasts.
By the middle of the 20th century, research shows that farmers ramped up the pace where turkeys grow, too. So turkeys were growing unnaturally large at an unnatural speed.
The skeletons and leg muscles of some birds could not expand quickly enough to compensate. That’s why some modern turkeys have disproportionately large chests feet too small to fully support their weight, researchers report.
A a recent study on growth rates of over 275,000 turkeys in Canada found that over 70% had some level of mobility problems. The birds that grew the fastest were more likely to have weak muscles, awkward postures, and poor balance.
But the data on all those turkeys came from one large-scale breeder, Hendrix Genetics, which did not respond to Business Insider for comment. Other large-scale farms and small farms that raise their turkeys on pasture, with outside access, may have varying degrees of mobility problems.
Business Insider spoke with John Vesecky from Vesecky Family Farms in Kansas, which raises both heritage breeds and White Broadbreasts.
“The Broad-breasted Whites grow faster than the heritage birds, and they grow bigger, but they can still move,” Vesecky said.
Their aerial skills, however, could use some work. “Broad-breasted Whites are too heavy to fly,” Vesecky said. “They can jump a few feet on the feeder but not much more.” Meanwhile, its heritage birds regularly fly up and roost on top of the buildings.
Vesecky said access to pasture makes a big difference to the health of the birds, and it gives them room to roam around hunting for grass and bugs. It also places its food and water supply in different places. This environment encourages the birds to move and strengthen their legs.
“They are raised as a bird should be raised,” he said.
Why rapid growth is a problem for birds and farmers
Fast growth has its advantages.
The sooner a bird reaches its full size, the less time and resources a poultry farmer has to raise it. Because the farming process is more efficient, turkey meat tends to be modern cheaper (though not worse) than meat from heritage breeds, according to research from Penn State.
But there may be some trade-offs in terms of nutrition. A 2009 report funded by the United States Department of Agriculture found that slow-growing heritage turkeys had more vitamin A in their breast meat than fast-growing turkeys fed the same environment and feed .
It is possible that the slow-growing turkeys were more active than the fast-growing ones and were foraging on plants that increased vitamin A content, Anne Fanaticothe report’s lead investigator and a professor of sustainable development at Appalachian State University, told Business Insider.
Researchers have found that turkey meat is also modern more prone to defects. fast growing turkeys putting on weight so fast that their carcasses can develop streaks of fat where muscle should be.
This meat is also more likely to be “pale, soft, and exudative”, aka slimy, another study found. Researchers report that differences in muscle structure are more likely to cause changes in acidity after slaughter, which may cause poultry meat to develop oozy secretions and a yellow color rather than a healthy pink.
Other study found that pale turkey meat taken from a slaughterhouse in Turkey had significantly less protein than regular meat.
A lean turkey can also be a savior for hungry customers. According to a 2009 article, pale, soft and exudative defects protect the US turkey industry over $200 million year.
In addition, in rare cases, birds with severe mobility problems may have difficulty finding feeders and drinkers on their own, according to research.
Simply put, turkeys that cannot walk well are unlikely to survive without human intervention. Even under the care of farmers, these turkeys tend to live shorter and less healthy lives, according to researchers.
How to breed healthier birds
Thank you, a healthier breeding stock turkey could be on the horizon.
As long as a bird’s growth rate stays below a certain threshold, researchers say mobility issues are less likely.
The trick is figuring out which birds are the best to breed.
Aviagen, an international breeder of turkeys and chickens, uses advanced imaging technology such as X-ray scanning and computed tomography (CT) to image the skeletal structure of birds and identify turkeys that can walk well but grow quickly. The technology allows breeders to spot potential leg defects before allowing a bird to mate.
Unhealthy birds are kept out of the breeding stock, no matter how fast they grow. This would theoretically help prevent mobility issues from passing on to the next generation. Aviagen has not yet responded to Business Insider’s request for comment regarding the success of this program.
Heritage turkeys are another option for consumers to consider. According to the Livestock Conservation Criteriaheritage turkeys grow slowly enough that they remain mobile and can reproduce on their own.
“It’s more sustainable to raise animals that can breed naturally,” Fanatico said.
Fanatico added that consumer interest in heritage turkeys is growing, especially as local, community-based food systems become more popular. Although heritage turkeys take more time to raise, some people are finding that those who wait come with good meals.
Tips for buying the best turkey
Finding the perfect turkey for a holiday meal can be complicated. Here are some things to keep in mind when shopping.
First, make sure the meat is safe to eat. According to the US Department of Agriculture, the skin should be white or cream-colored, and the color of the raw meat can range from pink to lavender blue.
Bruises in the flesh are usually safe as long as the surrounding flesh is not torn or punctured. You can cut out the bruise, and the rest of the turkey should be fine.
Spoiled turkey will have a foul smell and feel sticky to the hand. At that point, there’s no “saving” the meat — you just have to eat it, according to San Bernardino Environmental Health Services.
To avoid spoiled meat, note how long the turkey will be in your fridge or freezer. If you’re shopping more than a few days ahead of time, the USDA recommends getting a frozen turkey.
If you want a turkey that has never been frozen, look for the word “fresh” on the label. In general, the USDA recommends waiting until a day or two before your meal to bring home a fresh bird.
Additionally, turkeys labeled “fresh” or “minimally processed” are not allowed to have additives such as MSG or salt.
But farmers may have given them antibiotics to prevent disease. To raise turkey without antibiotics, search for turkey organic label.
Any turkey you buy should be hormone-free by default, as the USDA does not allow farmers to give growth hormones to turkeys.
If you prefer the small, slow-growing turkey breeds but want a larger bird, look on the label for a tom (male turkey), as they tend to have more meat than hens.
But as long as you cook the meat properly, any size turkey should taste tender and delicious.
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