by There’s nothing like a city break to kick us out of the winter doldrums – but why wait until spring? European cities do not sleep during the winter months; they bask in normal tourist life, with queue-free museums, dinners that don’t require reservations and the chance to experience some of the world’s most famous tourist spots without being submerged in cruise crowds.
Many are also bathed in the warm sunlight in February and early March (March 20 is the first day of spring this year). It’s true that there could be more chance of rain – but even wet days can be romantic if you’re in the right place. One of my favorite recent travel memories is sitting under a restaurant canopy in Rome’s Campo de’ Fiori, eating pizza and drinking Moretti as the rain bounced off the sidewalks, watching delivery men scurry back and forth and market vendors scurrying inside their stalls.
Best of all, hotel rates at this time of year are about half what they would be in April. Here are seven places to kick off the city’s holiday season early.
Seville, Spain
With average highs of 18C in February and five to six hours of sunshine a day, you’ll need T-shirts and sun cream to explore Seville’s fascinating Moorish heritage. The big hitters – the Giralda, the Cathedral and the Real Alcázar – will be less crowded and it will be much easier to snag counter space at some of the city’s most popular tapas bars.
Try El Rincocillo (Calle Gerona 40), the oldest in the city, or La Brunilda (Calle Galera 5; 00 34 954 22 04 81) – although it’s a good idea to make a reservation, even in February. Even in the depths of winter there are regular flamenco performances, with tickets usually available; The Casa de la Memoria cultural center, which dates back to the 15th century, hosts nightly performances – some of the best in the city.
Vueling flies to Seville from £62 return, departing from Gatwick. Stay at the Hospes las Casa del Dey de Baeza, which offers doubles from £130 (00 34 914 363 478; hospes.com)
Lisbon, Portugal
A trip on Tram 28 – the city’s most popular trolley car, dating back to the 1930s and taking in Lisbon’s nicest neighborhoods – can be stressful during the high season: long queues, people stuck in, mind flowing in the heat . In winter, there is rarely a queue at any stop; stop at Alfama for lunch at O Cartaxeiro before continuing to the Castelo de São Jorge for a great view over the city. Pop into the crowd-free Calouste Gulbenkian gallery to see all three – Rembrandt, Rubens and Renoir – and browse for bargains at the Feria de Ladra, the city’s 800-year-old market (Tuesday to Saturday).
Ryanair flies to Lisbon from £34 return, departing from London Stansted. Stay at the Emerald House, which offers doubles from £114 (00 351 21 150 6110; hilton.com)
Rome, Italy
By April, Rome is already overflowing with visitors, but in February and early March it is still possible to see the big attractions – the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and the Pantheon – and much less. people around. Book tickets late in the day to the Vatican museums (most people think going early is the best time, which means it’s always busy) and immerse yourself in a museum Doria Pamphilj to get a glimpse of life in Rome at its most obscene. A restaurant should dive into the Testaccio neighborhood, home to the city’s most popular food market, with more than 100 stalls and street food vendors.
Wizzair flies to Rome from £68 return, departing from Gatwick. Stay at the newly opened CitizenM, which is offering 30 per cent off room rates until March 31, meaning doubles start from £95 a single room (00 39 06 8587 1180; citizens.com)
Athens, Greece
Take your party shoes if you’re going to Athens in late February or early March; Apokries, the Greek equivalent of Carnival, sees the capital explode with three weeks of parties, restaurants and bars hosting special events, with the Plaka neighborhood at the heart of the evening celebrations. If the weather is good, walk or take a cab up Lycabettus Hill for lunch or dinner at Orizontes, which has great views over the Acropolis. If it’s chilly, the Acropolis Museum will immerse its visitors in the artefacts, sculpture and culture of ancient Greece – without the summer crowds. Keen skiers can even find a day on the slopes; Parnassos Ski Resort is approximately 2.5 hours away.
Easyjet flies to Athens from four UK airports from £80 return. Stay at the Gatsby, which offers doubles from £182, including breakfast (00 30 21 0321 6001; gatsbyathens.com)
Nice, France
Last year, at the beginning of March, I managed to get sunburned while sitting on the Cours de Saleya in Nice at lunchtime; Every restaurant table was taken outdoors, the whole city soaked happily in the sun. Nice has changed a lot in recent years; The Promenade des Anglais offers dreamy, sunny walks, and the old town is perfect for an evening of pottering in and out of ogaeries and perfumes – don’t miss Tresors Publics (11 Rue de Pont Vieux) for traditional gifts, or Nicolas Alziari (14 rue Saint Francois de Paule) – home to the best olive oil in town since 1932. Head to the rooftop bar Seen by Olivier for a hearty lunch in one of the city’s most beautiful Belle Époque buildings, where Anantara hotel now.
Easyjet flies to Nice from £46 return, departing from seven UK airports. Stay at the Anantara Plaza Nice, which offers doubles from £162 (00 33 4 93 16 75 75; anantara.com)
Madrid, Spain
Sitting by a lake in El Retiro Park – the big green and elegant heart of Madrid – with hot chocolate and a saxophonist busking nearby, is one of my favorite moments from a recent December visit. Blue skies in February are just as possible; on cooler days, pop into the city’s extraordinary food markets – skip the touristy Mercado de San Miguel, and instead settle in for empanadas and a cana (small beer, 200ml) at Mercado san Fernando in the Lavapies district, or Mercado de la Paz in leafy Salamanca. There may still be queues for the Prado, but in December, I walked straight into the Thyssen-Bornemisza, one of the most extraordinary private collections in the world, and the Sorolla museum – the original home and studio of artist Joaquín Sorolla – is one of the most beautiful places in the city.
British Airways flies to Madrid from £94 return, departing from Heathrow or Gatwick. Stay at the Ocean Drive, which offers doubles from £120 (00 34 910 88 28 04; od-hotels.com)
Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul is a lot easier to explore in the winter: the roads aren’t as slick, ferries aren’t as busy, everywhere feels a little less frantic. Explore the city’s newest museums – Modern Istanbul and the Hagia Sophia History Museum – and discover the rich history of hamams at the 500-year-old Çinili Hamam, recently reopened after 13 years of renovation. To mix culture with culinary adventure, head to Çiya in Kadikoy (the Asian side of the city) for great meze, created from traditional Anatolian recipes; Kiyi in Tarabya, one of the best fish restaurants in the city for the last 60 years; or join the hip crowd at Michelin-starred Arkestra, with pre-dinner cocktails upstairs in the chic Listening Room bar.
British Airways flies to Istanbul from £128 return, departing from Heathrow. Stay at the Stay Bosphorus, which offers doubles from £177 (00 90 212 970 7830; thestay.com.tr)
