The Queen upheld the royal tradition of smart diplomatic attire during a visit to Belfast on Thursday, wearing two outfits that paid homage to her hosts in subtle and unmistakable ways.
For the first part of her day in Northern Ireland, the Queen focused on an elegant new coat dress by one of her most trusted couturiers, Bruce Oldfield – the designer of last year’s Coronation dress. Significantly, Camilla had commissioned a new outfit for the visit rather than wearing any of the other “Emerald Isle green” items in her wardrobe. Oldfield gave the coat a special twist, adding velvet appliqué patches like leaves.
“This outfit was originally intended for Christmas Day, but it was too dressy for that family gathering so it came out for St. Patrick’s visit instead,” Oldfield tells the Telegraph. The appliqué details, he explains, are “a modern stylized interpretation of the classic Rococo leaf motif that I offered to Her Majesty in various placements. I’m glad she wore it.”
Camilla accessorized her new coat with a diamond and turquoise clover brooch, a nod to the shamrock symbol that unites Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. The brooch was given to the Queen by the late Queen Elizabeth, which he received as a wedding gift in 1947. She also added a silk scarf in pale green, another favorite accessory of Queen Elizabeth.
Later, Camilla changed into a second delicate diplomatic ensemble. For a World Poetry Day event attended by politicians including Michelle O’Neill, the Prime Minister, she wore a bottle green dress by Anna Valentine, another of her favorite designers, with an emerald stud in Art Deco style which was a gift from the Council. King.
“Besides the obvious connection of Irish green and its alignment with the Irish people, I would say that Green is giving Camilla strength in her role as she only fulfills her promises,” says author and color expert Jules Standish . “It’s a supportive color, which helps her stay calm and balanced. It is a color that represents an image of friendliness and approachability, and an understanding that it truly comes from the heart. It could also echo Charles’ love for the environment and nature.”
Bruce Oldfield was a natural choice for Camilla to turn to for her new coat and may have been the one responsible for luring her into a slightly more daring design than usual. “I design in a rather classic way. I design to make the body more elegant,” Oldfield told The Telegraph in an interview after the Coronation. “The great thing about this particular commission was that we know a lot about her figure and her body. And I can also tell when she doesn’t like something.”
By wearing two looks in the same hue, along with carefully chosen jewellery, the Queen underlined her commitment to the diplomatic dressing that modern members of the Royal family have made into a fine art.
Queen Elizabeth used the fashion habit to make a bold gesture of solidarity and respect many times during visits to Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland during her reign.
Pictures from a 1977 visit to Northern Ireland show her in an elegant emerald green silk dress. And for a historic tour of the Republic of Ireland in 2011, she wore a dress with over 1,000 silk shamrocks and a diamond harp brooch, both symbols that hold meaning throughout the entire island of Ireland.
The Princess of Wales kept her boldest Irish-themed look for a visit to the Republic in 2020 when she debuted two new bright green outfits that were a fun take on diplomatic attire: a riotously printed Alessandra Rich dress and who was with Catherine adapted. Walker’s coat came off, and the tinsel-green Vampire’s Wife dress she wore to visit the Guinness Storehouse that evening is still considered one of her most stylish looks in history. She also wore a coat from Galway-based Dubarry for a more casual moment of the trip.
In Northern Ireland, the Princess’ past choices have been underwhelming. A blue look she wore in Belfast in 2022 was thought to have been chosen to pay homage to the city’s flag, while a bright Missoni dress in light mint referenced Ireland’s traditional shade in a more modern way.
Even the Duchess of Sussex got the “green in Ireland” memo, wearing a bottle-green pencil skirt by Canadian label Greta Constantine for a visit to Belfast in 2018.
Of course, Ireland is not the only place where members of the Royal family have enjoyed diplomatic fashion statements. From cherry blossom dresses in Japan to red and white “flag dresses” in Canada and yellow in Australia, there are countless examples of the playful practice. In November last year, the Queen and Princess of Wales coordinated the colors of their clothes to honor the state visit of the president of South Korea.
At a time when members of the Royal family are making headlines for so many other reasons, it’s a joy to see this style continuity in action.