by Black tie invitations may not come around often, but when they do they can pose a sartorial challenge. For all its specific rules, this formal dress code is confusing and intimidating in equal measures. What was originally designed as a way to protect guests from arriving at an overdressed or underdressed event has become a complex social arena.
Although not the most formal of dress codes (that title belongs to white tie), black tie conveys a level of glamor and refinement that goes beyond ordinary evening wear. While a tuxedo jacket, designer denim and heels will satisfy many post-dark style situations, black tie is a more serious task. British etiquette guide Debrett’s still says that “for most people, this is the most formal dress code they will ever encounter”. The advice for female guests is brief: “Women should wear a full length evening dress or ball gown with or without long sleeves. Long gloves can be worn with sleeveless dresses.”
We asked stylist Holly White for advice in an effort to define what your black ensemble needs. Renowned for dressing an array of rising Hollywood stars from House of the Dragon’s Milly Alcock to Bridgerton’s Charithra Chandran and How To Have Sex star Mia Bruce, she is well aware of the glamorous style dilemmas that come with guiding formal invitations – while ensuring her clients still look chic, contemporary and, most importantly, comfortable. Should you wear black? How short is too short? What styles are suitable for the occasion but still modern? She breaks down the modern rules of black tie below.
What is the easiest way to manage a black dress code?
“I tend to use dress codes to gauge the overall feel and energy of the event or party, so try not to get too excited about them – they’re there to help. Ultimately, when it comes to my clients, I’m always trying to land something that makes them feel their best and most confident – and that should be everyone’s priority. Black tie is not as traditional as it once was; it’s much more creative and people are putting on their looks in new and interesting ways that still feel elevated. This also means that guests tend to look for state-of-the-art furnishings that they are more likely to wear again, which is so important from an environmental point of view. The level of formality varies by invitation, so it’s always worth checking with your host if you’re unsure. Everyone has their own interpretation of what black tie means.”
How do you send black invitations in a modern way?
“Look for contemporary necklines – cowl neck, off-the-shoulder, high neck (Think Saint Laurent, Alaia and Alexander McQueen) and focus on the details; add opera gloves or a modern hair accessory, like a headband or crystal hair clip.”
Do you have to wear black? Does color matter when it comes to black tie?
“Black isn’t the only option, but if that’s your sartorial safe space, go for it. I recommend sticking to color blocking rather than anything too gaudy as it allows you to have more fun with the silhouette and accessories, while respecting the dress code.”
What length of dress is acceptable? Does it have to be floor length?
“Floor length is best, but medium length works too. Anything shorter feels more ‘cocktail’ and too relaxed for a black tie event.”
Are there any silhouettes that work best? Is it acceptable to wear form-fitting shapes?
“Fit is everything, be it form fitting or oversized. Don’t throw anything you had to force yourself into. No matter how tight or loose your outfit is, make sure it’s tailored to your proportions – it’s the easiest way to boost your confidence and look elegant.”
How can you bring red carpet color to your look? Are there any styling hacks that instantly elevate an outfit?
“Accessories and confidence. My job as a stylist is essentially about creating confidence as well as maintaining a look that will stand the test of time on the red carpet. Hair, make-up and painted nails make more of an impact than you might think – if you can give yourself a professional beauty look, it will pay off. Quick drying will make a big difference to how you feel.”
What shoes should I wear? Are heels necessary?
“I don’t think there are any hard rules about this. Kitten heels often look more formal or higher, but it’s also important to be able to walk easily and confidently so choose a heel height that you feel comfortable in. There are so many glamorous flats now so don’t feel compelled to wear heels if it doesn’t feel natural to you.”
What should I avoid? What does black tie misstep mean?
“Avoid fabrics that feel casual, such as cotton or wool. Instead look for luxe materials like crepe, silk or chiffon.”
What style of handbag would you recommend?
“A clutch will always make a statement – it’s an occasionwear classic – but I also suggest you consider a bag with a small handle or a delicate chain strap that you can casually hold or drape over your shoulder.”
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