by These are my favorite shoes for almost 10 years. They are black loafers with a small block heel made in Italy from very soft leather. They are so beautifully constructed that every time I get them refreshed, they come back looking brand new. I have recently bought shoes for the same amount of money, but their durability and comfort do not compare.
Unfortunately, due to the increase in mass production and synthetic materials, unless you know what you are looking for, these types of shoes can be difficult to find. Here, experts explain how to spot well-made shoes.
High quality leather
Jenny Velakoulis, owner of Evans Leather Repair in Melbourne’s Royal Arcade, says the most important thing to look for in quality shoes is genuine leather. “Leather is beautiful, because you get a hole in your shoes that can be patched on the inside and outside. Then the leather molds to wherever we want it,” says Velakoulis. “So it’s a very nice, beautiful thing to work with and it will last forever if it’s cared for properly.”
Related: Cover your hide: how to care for leather clothing
Shoemaker and craftsman Theo Hassett says: “If you’re after high-quality leather with all its strength and anthropometric properties, you want full-grain leather.” Full grain leather has a natural texture on the surface because it is not sanded or buffed smooth. He says to watch out for leather that has been coated with plastic or has had a corrective surface applied to make the leather look too smooth and shiny, as these are techniques used to hide split or poor quality hides.
Plastic free
Likewise, beware of shoes made of plastic – they are so difficult to fix. “If you get a stain on it or if it cracks that’s the end of it. It’s very disposable,” says Velakoulis.
Sometimes the amount of plastic in shoes can be deceiving. It could be labeled vegan leather, or called mesh in ballet flats. Any material labeled “synthetic” or “resin” is plastic. Likewise, Velakoulis says to be wary of stiletto or kitten heels that are molded from plastic and are light enough to be hollow inside, because they break easily and once a heel is broken, it’s nearly impossible to replace.
Stitched construction
Another telltale sign of a well-made shoe is the use of stitching to hold the sole in place. Hassett says this is especially important “if you want the shoes to last more than a few years because any glue in place of the stitching will come apart”.
Look for seams especially around the inner sole of the shoe, as any glue used inside will deteriorate from the sweat of your feet and the friction under your heel, says Velakoulis.
Single out and tread
If you’ll be doing a lot of walking in your shoes, Hassett recommends looking for a thick rubber upper or Dainite rubber soles. “They are some of the most durable,” he says.
For dress shoes with smooth leather soles, it is important to get a cobbler to attach a thin layer or rubber to the bottom and heel (often called a hug) and replace this rubber as needed.
“The traditional way is to completely replace the leather sole, which involves removing and reattaching the heel and reattaching a new sole,” says Hassett. “But to be honest, very few places have the equipment, the skills or the inclination to do this anymore.”
Instead, he says to look for soles with structural integrity, like a thin midsole glued to something more substantial and an outsole glued to this, because the customer can then replace the unit as needed. “I know this sounds like a stuck tire but I think it’s very different when you have all the construction above to maintain the integrity,” he says.
Another thing to pay attention to is the way the heels are built. A well-made brogue or boot should have a stacked leather heel. Made by shoemakers cutting and stacking pieces of leather on top of each other with glue. This means that the heel is easy to repair as the layers can be removed and rebuilt as needed.
Related: Swell for leather: how to properly care for shoes and sneakers
Fastenings
When it comes to buckles, zips and laces, Velakoulis says “if the hardware looks unclean, it will break”.
“If it’s soft and malleable and doesn’t seem strong, it will break. And the more buckles there are, the more likely that will happen.”
For Hassett, they’re zips that can’t usually withstand the wear and tear of being on your feet. “On footwear that you expect to last 10 years or more, I think a zip is a dangerous thing,” he says. Which means the most durable shoes are those that lace up, or slide on and off.
