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The fall/winter 2024 shows at Milan were a series of highly wearable collections. Milan has never been as adventurous/outgoing as Paris. Bourgeois conformity is his soul. But after a post-pandemic spending splurge (me neither, but the bounce back at many big brands suggests that lots and lots of us went on shopping frenzies), reality has bitten. Many brands have reduced spending and that tends to focus on tactile, luxurious-feeling fabrics and wearables that score high on special details and longevity.
While there are some investment items to consider – a new skirt shape, tall or riding boots and a few color changes – much of what caught the eye were styling ideas, any of which will update your current look. Read on…
Boost your beige
Milan’s love for taupe isn’t going away anytime soon. Most designers have recently questioned every shade, from camel to bright biscuit, as they tune into “quiet luxury”. But Northern Italians have always loved this particular part of the spectrum. Max Mara has built an entire brand on the concept of “Camelandia”. But in recognition of the fact that some complexes with these bright colors can look scary, designers have added an extra color to the mix.
The most common one is mid-blue which looks especially good with all shades of cream and brown. New Gucci designer Sabato De Sarno loves it so much that he used it with nothing but taupe skin. Et voilà, when you wear the best neutral part with the ultra-rich series, you don’t have to look jaundiced anymore. Progress people, progress.
Skirts with a sting in the tail
What you need to know: mini skirts are back on the agenda. But fear not there are plenty of other options. Midis and maxis abound and instead of being straight up and down, some now have (small) mermaid tails on the side or pleat inserts. It might sound tired but in the hands of Maximilian Davis, the British Ferragamo designer, it is not. But it is flattering.
The Knitted Jacket
Is it a jacket or a cardigan? It’s both – one’s likeness, the other’s cleverness. We’re talking about winter, remember, and while blazers may be a year-round investment, many of us shed tears when the weather calls for coats and we’re in a cold grip. As designers turn their attention to the cardigan-jacket, you can be sure that it will become more and more refined and streamlined. In Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s sophisticated Hitchcock-inspired heroine collection, the Serafini of the same name teamed it with trousers of the same color in a different fabric: a nice play on textures that look very smart and relaxed.
Take another one out? The thorn pin is sculpted back. Add one to an existing knit to lift it up.
Polo necks and high boots
Don’t think Milanese fashion is an exclusive, rich-only club. You could go further by adding some long boots and layering a polo neck under everything – dresses, shirts, tank tops, coats, bustiers – and look well up to date. Great coverage for necks and warm polo necks also reduces the urge for a scarf, which is sad if you love scarves, but good if you tend to leave them everywhere. This is really a win-win situation.
Be Bold With Brights
As with beige and monochrome taking the fashion stage recently, bright colors have gained a bad reputation (partially blame Barbie; it killed pink for a while). But if Miuccia Prada says that purple and red, chartreuse and bubble gum pink are okay together, her power and influence will make the rest of the industry fall in line. And like her, they wear them with black, a combination that was previously considered very 1980s, and not in a good way (not that far from the 80s can be interpreted in a “good way”) .
Meanwhile, Adrian Appiolaza, who was only appointed Moschino’s creative director in January, pulled together a stunning statement collection that succeeded in the elements of humor, smiley faces, peace symbols and color at its heart. of this label, but to include additional everyday life. elegance. That daffodil yellow sweater really stands out.
One more takeaway: 74-year-old Miuccia is still making a big impact on this supposed-to-be-steady youth. Good on you.
Not just about the blazer. Fit your new utility jacket
A blazer will never go out of style. Milan was full of them. But for your consideration, here are some other suggestions: chore cropped jacket. At Loro Piana, a label that does not know what retreat means, thanks to its designation i Succession as the favorite label of the ultra-rich if you know, the sleeveless combat jacket has just reached its apotheosis.
Meanwhile, Brunello Cucinelli is another master of making the most luxurious pieces look relaxed and understated to the naked eye. This is where David Beckham goes when he wants to be the ultimate Cotswolds shepherd. It is so expensive that Carrie Bradshaw, now a very rich widow if not, mentioned the prices in an issue of it. And just like... This is enough of the chore jacket to set your benchmark: pale fibers, natural and cut that mean you could wear it day and night and the overdressed brigade will grit their teeth and wonder why it looks so good.
Takeaway: interesting that these ultra-luxe labels are embracing utility. Is that the inflection of the new rich?
The Ever Versatile Shirt
Good cotton shirts have become one of those non-basic staples that influencers appreciate when it comes to versatile styling options. Wear them over tanks, over skinny ribbed sweaters, under dungarees, strapless dresses, back to front, rolled sleeves, turned up, or if you’re willing to put up with a joke, hang. And now…wear them with another shirt.
Probably not. But the thing is, a boxy shirt that’s made to last will work well as a summer “jacket”.
Burgundy Bellissima
Burgundy has placed brown in second place for the most popular winter color. Some designers have launched head-to-toe claret shades but that’s not recommended if it doesn’t suit you. It’s not easy close to the face but it’s a great accent color – boots, gloves, bags, belts. At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy turned to a more wearable approach than before (let’s just say past collections were more about concepts and accessories than everyday luxury). One standout is the semi-fitted dress that tops off burgundy with cream and chocolate. Beautiful.
The car coat
Brushed coats abound in Milan – the ultimate luxury (see Alberta Ferretti’s chart version below). But if you find all that fabric impractical, the answer is here too. Car coats came in every fabric, from evening shoes to this plush dream from Gucci.
Finally: accessories that make the difference
Bags and shoes are never an afterthought in Milan. After all, many of the most established houses started here – Prada, Gucci, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo, in luggage, bags or footwear.
What you need to know:
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Polished riding boots and waders will be all over the high street next season.
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There are squishy and ergonomic bags (when a brand offers three shades from the camel spectrum a la Valextra, you know you are in the luxury of the planet)
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Scarves that match coats are probably the best update you can make (inspired, I’d say, by Swedish label Toteme’s quilted blanket coat and matching scarf that has been a steady seller since its introduction in 2022). By the way, that chartreuse Ferretti coat? Another key shade for next autumn.
