by Ten years ago, Nepalese mountain guide Dawa Tashi Sherpa was fighting for his life after being hit by an avalanche on Everest, which at the time was the deadliest disaster on the world’s highest mountain. .
The accident, which killed 16 Nepalese guides on April 18, 2014, highlighted the enormous dangers they face in allowing high-paying foreign clients to realize their dreams.
Without their vital work of knotting climbing routes, fixing ropes, repairing ladders and carrying heavy equipment up the mountain, few foreign visitors would be able to reach the top of the daunting peak.
Ten years ago, a wall of snow barreled through the Nepalese guides as they put heavy gear up the treacherous high-altitude Khumbu ice in freezing darkness.
The force of the collision threw Dawa Tashi about 10 meters (33 feet) down, injuring her rib cage, left shoulder blade and nose.
Dawa Tashi, who was 22 years old at the time, remembered his friends who had died. Three of their bodies were never found.
“I was lucky to survive,” he told AFP. “In the hospital, whenever I tried to sleep, they would appear before my eyes.”
The disaster led to protests for better benefits and conditions for the guides, and an unprecedented shutdown of the peak for a season.
– ‘tipping point’ –
It sparked a debate about compensation for the families of Nepali guides and mountain workers who were injured or killed.
Many are forced to rely on the charity of Western climbers — despite the fact that they are employed by tour companies and are fundamental to the success of the multi-million dollar industry.
“It was very difficult back then,” said Nima Doma Sherpa, who lost her husband Tsering Onchu, 33, in the avalanche.
“What can you do when the main pillar of your house is not there? The children were small, and I was worried about how I will educate them and how we will feed ourselves.”
The government receives large revenues from the lucrative climbing industry – last season in 2023, it earned more than $5 million from Everest fees alone.
Soon after the accident in 2014, he pledged a meager $400 to the families of those killed to cover funeral expenses.
The offer was rejected by angry Nepalis, whose families only received $10,000 in life insurance at the time.
The resulting furious dispute, with Nepalese clamoring for better death and injury benefits from the government, led to days of tension at the base camp.
The Sherpa guides, saddened by the death of their colleagues, threatened to boycott the climb, throwing the mountaineers’ plans into disarray and canceling the season.
“It was a turning point for young, frustrated Sherpas,” said Sumit Joshi of the Himalayan Ascent tour operator, who lost three guides from his team in the avalanche that year.
Since then, his teams have not climbed Everest on the date of the anniversary.
“Ten years later, their working conditions and respect have improved,” he said.
– Safety standards required –
In 2014, protesters at Everest base camp made several demands.
They included an improvement in insurance payouts and a relief fund from mountain royalties.
“We were advocating for the Nepali climbers, making sure they can get as much benefit as possible,” said Ang Tshering Sherpa who headed the Nepal Mountaineering Association at the time.
“But not all demands could be met because there were limits.”
The insurance payout was increased by 50 percent to 1.5 million Nepalese rupees ($11,250) if someone is killed.
Helicopters are now allowed to fly in supplies to higher camps, reducing the number of trips Nepalese make across the treacherous Khumbu icefall.
Nepalese companies have displaced foreign operators to bring in the majority of climbers, and larger firms have improved pay and conditions for guides.
But, said guide Mingma G Sherpa, not much else has changed.
“They protested, but it was limited to the base camp,” he said. “The main thing is that the government’s policies are still not good … we have to set a standard for climbers to make the mountains safer”.
– ‘Wives do not agree’ –
In 2015, a powerful earthquake triggered an avalanche that killed 18 people at the Everest base camp before the climbing season began.
Last year’s season began when three Nepali climbers carrying expedition supplies died after being hit by falling glacial ice and swept into a crevasse.
Mingma G Sherpa said many local guides have quit the industry.
“The number of Sherpas has gone down significantly. Now companies have to go looking for Sherpas. In the past, Sherpas would have to go around looking for work,” he said.
“We want to go to climb because we know the environment there, but the family members do not want to send. The mothers and wives do not agree.”
Survivor Dawa Tashi, who started trekking when he was only 11, guides climbers and returned to Everest in 2021.
He is preparing to lead six Americans up the central 6,461-meter Mera peak.
“There were improvements after the disaster, but it’s not enough,” he said, pointing to the $11,000 fee each foreigner pays the government to climb Everest.
“The government should… create a fund to protect the manpower,” he said.
“The clients would happily pay it too, knowing it will be used to look after their staff.”
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