by MILAN – There were references to utility and workwear throughout Milan Fashion Week, from street style looks to runway shows, indicating that men are still very much riding that wave. Outerwear specialists have put a lot of research into fabric research, coming up with unprecedented textiles and coatings that combine performance and style.
Walk through Stone IslandA showroom is like taking a crash course in fabric engineering. The development and exploration of textiles by the Italian brand is particularly impressive. Examples include the three-layer “Raso Gommato”, where light cotton satin is bonded to a performance film and protected by a super-light white polyester mesh. Layers of resin are applied to a garment-dyed cotton base and then etched with a laser, which creates camouflage by erasing areas of the resin to reveal the original garment-dyed color. The jacket is cut with three-dimensional pockets with a curved shape, inspired by Stone Island archive pieces.
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Another significant innovation was the creation of a new fabric, an extremely thin layer of sheepskin leather bonded to a very light polyester organza, making it more resistant and resulting in a crunchy finish. This was used on a parka inspired by vintage military pieces and motorcycle jackets, with internal seam taping and covered zips.
The idea of Massio Osti, CP Company it continues to define its fashion codes through fabric innovation and material research. Several of the season’s outerwear designs resulted in the incorporation of new textiles into the brand’s signature silhouettes, including the Millemiglia and Goggle jackets. Nylon yarn flattened and laminated with a special coating and then over-dyed to achieve a patina effect was worked into a utilitarian anorak with a visible Pium hood in the Rafia range, and the Lino Wax linen fabric coated with semi-transparency. a polyurethane compound transformed Millemiglia’s field jacket into protective gear.
Over at Studio Massimo OstiThe recently introduced spin-off brand relying on Osti’s maverick expertise in sportswear and textile manipulation has highlighted some of the drops in its range since launching at Paris Fashion Week last January, including collaborations with Leatherman and Alcantara.
Similarly, Ten C’sThe spring collection marked the debut of new textiles including resin-coated linen in cargo pants and a pocketed utility jacket inspired by an entire United States army, which creative director Alessandro Pungetti said he sliced in two for a work clothes suit, so to speak. To be sure the designer is expanding the company’s offering beyond its main outerwear category “building a whole look that stems from a new way of seeing clothes,” he said. Waxed designs including anoraks and flight jackets inspired by pre-loved outerwear that the company has repaired for its clients had a distressed vintage patina that enhanced the overall utilitarian mood of the collection. The dyed nylon gabardine with a metallic effect hit a small but ubiquitous trend among outerwear specialists.
With a different output, fabric sourcing has improved construction Add to newer purposes. The spring men’s collection featured mixed media, cupro and cotton, bomber jackets and the so-called “windbreaker foil,” made of metal yarn fabric that guarantees extra protection. Also in the high-performance space, the gorpcore brand has a three-layer rain jacket and lightweight padded overshirt filled with Primaloft hinges. The brand is also expanding towards different product categories, including, for example, knitwear and pants.
Major short jackets displayed with hoods made of super light fabric padded with goose down and a small boudin-quilted blouse, half-lined made of hand-buffed vegetable napa, with pockets on the chest and with horn buttons. The color palette went from white to ecru, from beige to butter and blue tones. A gray area mixed with shades of sage green, leather and orange. Materials included silks, suede and fine wool.
At Blauer, five different lines were presented: essential project, urban police, department, cyclists and B.. The last two were designed specifically for men who influenced the racing world with jackets made of nylon and two-layer leather, sweatshirts and T-shirts in classic black and white cotton. The B.Project line features a pocket with LED flash. The Essential includes shell and bomber jackets in rubber-coated nylon, and natural fiber blends, hinged on a color palette of green and plum, yellow. Urban Police is dedicated to cargo pants, crewneck sweaters in waterproof and resistant stretch fabrics, enriched with graphics from the world of military defense with touches of navy blue and sand. There were also sartorial blazers and dresses in shades of blue and optical white for women. The focus is on the outerwear in the Department line: the color palette adopted neutral colors such as brown and army green. High-density nylon and garment-dyed cotton were used to guarantee outdoor performance. Inspired by the world of workwear, the jackets and suits for women, in cotton with nylon or with linen or cloth, have been enriched with large pockets and zips.
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