Sean Combs’ future may be in limbo as the hip-hop entrepreneur remains in prison awaiting trial on federal charges related to racketeering, sex trafficking and transportation to engage in prostitution. But the high-profile allegations, to which he has pleaded not guilty, have refocused attention on Combs’ colorful past in the world of fashion and his clothing brand Sean John.
In 1998, Combs was already well known as a successful hip-hop artist and the founder of Bad Boy Entertainment, a joint venture with Arista Records that helped develop the careers of The Notorious BIG and others.
More from WWD
It was also the year he launched Sean John, his own fashion brand.
While the fashion industry was happy to write off his venture as another flash-in-the-pan celebrity brand, Combs was serious about growing and maintaining his presence in the fashion arena and rode the wave for more than 20 year.
Here’s a timeline of the ups and downs of the Sean John brand.
1998: The Sean John label is launched as an urban fashion line. The debut collection comprises 11 pieces, including denim, cover-ups, twill and linen bottoms, linen and silk shirts, velor hooks (zip front jacket and pant), tees and Sean John’s signature baseball cap.
1999: The Sean John label is launched at retail with a launch event at Bloomingdale’s. Combs joins Kate Moss, Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Oscar de la Renta, Alek Wek and John Galliano in a Vogue editorial titled “Puffy Takes Paris,” shot by Annie Leibovitz.
2000: Combs accompanies his then-girlfriend Jennifer Lopez to the Grammy Awards where she wears a green silk chiffon Versace dress open to her navel, becoming an instant iconic image. Sean John holds his first fashion show in Bryant Park during New York Fashion Week. Sean John has been nominated for a CFDA Perry Ellis Award for Menswear.
2001: Combs spends more than $1 million to produce John John’s first national runway show during New York Fashion Week airing live on E! Television and the Styles Network. Sean John launches underwear at Bloomingdale’s. Combs cancels a planned runway show in Paris, scheduled for January 2002, to support the fashion community following the September 11 terrorist attacks.
2002: Sean John’s show at Cipriani in New York costs $1.24 million and includes “a specially commissioned video and soundtrack, theater curtains so huge it takes nine workers to raise them, and custom hardwood bleachers and a catwalk,” according to fashion review in The New York Times.
2003: Combs spends $1.5 million on a New York show that includes an 800-module LED screen and a Plexiglass-covered runway. Billionaire Ron Burkle’s Yucaipa Cos invests a reported $100 million in the Sean John brand. Combs has been nominated for Menswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA. Combs announces he will run the New York City Marathon to raise more than $1 million for children’s charities. His sponsors include McDonald’s, Nike and MTV.
2004: Combs won the CFDA menswear designer of the year award, beating out Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. His brand’s sales reach $450 million in retail. Sean John is opening a 3,500 square foot flagship at 475 Fifth Avenue in New York. Combs has appeared on Broadway in “Raisin in the Sun.” Sean John acquires a 50 percent stake in Zac Posen’s company, Outspoke LLC.
2005: Combs tries to launch women’s clothing for the first time but the Sean by Sean Combs line is closed less than a year later. Combs signs a deal with CBS Sports to dress his on-air personalities in Sean John for the 2006 NCAA basketball tournament.
2006: He launches Unforgivable, a fragrance created with Parlux Fragrances and licensed to the Estee Lauder Cos. Combs is in bed with two women in the advertising campaign. The Accessories Council honors Combs as Fashion Influencer of the Year. Sean John signs a sleepwear license with Basic Resources.
2007: Unforgivable won Fragrance of the Year in the men’s luxe category at the FiFi Awards hosted by The Fragrance Foundation. Sean John launches Unforgivable Woman.
2008: After a five-year absence, Sean John returns to the runway. The company produces a fashion show documentary “If I were King” on MTV. Sean John announces Nelly as the new spokesperson for Sean John underwear and loungewear.
2009: Sean John launches “I Am King” fragrance.
2010: Macy’s signs a deal with Sean John to be the exclusive retailer of the brand’s sportswear.
2010: John John’s Fifth Avenue store closes.
2012: Seán Seán signs a footwear licence.
2013: Combs posts what he claims is the first ever fashion show on Instagram.
2013: Estee Lauder refuses to renew John John’s perfume license and Jacavi takes over.
2015: Sean John signs license with EVY of California for children’s clothing and launches 3 AM fragrance.
2016: Global Brands Group Holding Ltd buys majority stake in Sean John and Combs earns approximately $70 million. Sean John’s retail sales exceed $525 million in the US
2021: Combs files a lawsuit against Global Brands Group seeking $25 million for “false endorsement, misappropriation of likeness and infringement of his publicity rights,” regarding the previous fall of a women’s collection with UK fashion retailer Missguided Unlimited.
2021: After Global Brands Group files Chapter 11, Combs buys the trademark for the Sean John brand in bankruptcy court for $7.551 million.
Launch Gallery: A Look Back at John John Through the Years
The best of WWD
Sign up for the WWD Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.