by The sound of constant low chanting came into my ear from a nearby Buddhist temple as I woke up from sleep sometime close to 5am, and then, covering the valley below. Having left the blinds open in my bedroom, as I always do when I’m away, I was immediately struck by the pre-sunrise light, a moody blue-green sky, mist rising through the mountain ranges, and an almost full moon shining in the distance.
The trills and chirps of frogs and cicadas mixed with the solating chants, then suddenly a sweet bird song erupted like a Tambora: life was everywhere, literally vibrating around me. If my visit to Santani Wellness was only for this blissful morning, I would be happy. But happily, more intoxicating joy was to come.
Since the night before, before I got to Santani, I spent most of it being charged by a giant steely cockroach – in the bathroom of my suspicious Kandy Airbnb – Santani’s relaxing, spotless and spacious mountain rooms felt even more welcoming.
My mountain view chalet (number 11) had a high gloss, polished floor which immediately reminded me of Bermondsey’s White Cube Gallery. Hot underfoot, he felt smooth and grounded. A few simple but elegant pieces of dark wood furniture sat at the foot of my four-poster bed, and in a terracotta dish, a solitary blue lotus flower, called Nil Manel in Sinhalese, slowly opened and closed as the days came and went. .
As someone who mostly travels alone, I was delighted to discover that I was not the only unaccompanied traveler at Santani. Over a breakfast of tropical fruits, egg hoppers, pol sambol, and delicately spiced dahl I was comforted to see many individual guests, some of whom I got to know during our stays.
Being a wellness retreat, nutrition plays a huge role in Santani’s ethos. Meals are prepared mostly using ingredients grown on the hotel’s grounds and are customized specifically for each guest depending on the recommendations of the on-site Ayurvedic doctor. Three-course lunches and dinners are standard, with artfully plated seafood dishes, string hoppers, and a happy-go-lucky look at my menu.
Even the restaurant itself is an event, as the wooden structure sits in harmony with the surrounding trees, offering stunning views of Sri Lanka’s great mountains through floor-to-ceiling windows, always ensuring that n -the wind becomes smooth.
Every day, guests are encouraged to participate in two yoga sessions led by Saman, a reiki healer and yogi from Kandy who put me in the deepest shavasana I’ve ever experienced thanks to the body scan he uses to close each session and its intense hypnotic. voice
I found the practice deep and grueling, especially since I spend my days messing up my posture by hunching over a laptop. During my first morning class, which runs from 7 to 8.30 am every day, I felt like I was going to burst into tears during a particular hip opening exercise, and not because of pain, but because of a sudden surge of deep feeling. . I later learned that this is not uncommon since emotions and trauma are stored unaddressed around the hip area. For guests looking to speed up the group setting, Saman is also available to provide one-on-one classes – ideal for anyone looking to focus on a specific area or problem.
Apart from yoga, the open-plan Spa – which looks directly onto the wild jungle, where monkeys play and rabbits graze – is a real highlight and sanctuary. Massages and treatments prescribed by doctor Santani consist of Ayurvedic and Western options. I love the smell and feel of the thick oils used in Ayurvedic massage so opted for Abhyangam, an intense body massage said to boost immunity and provide relief from fatigue.
When my tiny therapist arrived I immediately thought she wouldn’t be able to massage me as deep as I want, but she turned out to be an angel with magical hands and water buffalo strength. The treatment was one of the best I’ve had, enhanced by the sound and smell of heavy rain and the heavens opening about halfway through.
In addition to yoga and daily treatments, the hotel offers walks with a local naturalist past bright white stubby tea bushes, tropical cypress trees, and abandoned termite mounds now inhabited by snakes. And even though the hotel was almost at capacity for my stay, it never once felt busy or crowded. After lunch, I would almost always have the dreamy infinity pool all to myself and would enjoy watching the lone eagle soar and the motes dance, as the low fog rolls in to hug on the hills. If there really is heaven on earth, this is where you’ll find it.
Sleep, Recovery, Stress, Immune Boost, Detox and Rebalance packages are available at Santani Wellness Kandy. Alternatively rooms can be booked per night, Garden View Chalets start at £293, and Mountain View Chalets start at £387. santani.com
