by What connects football superstar Lionel Messi, Actor George Clooney and TV personality Chloe Madeley? No, it’s no surprise for the next celebrity reality TV series, but they were all patrons of Crans-Montana – a Swiss ski resort that is making a spectacular comeback after falling into obscurity.
After its heyday in the 1980s, the French-speaking town has never enjoyed the same recognition as its famous Valais cousins, Verbier and Zermatt, but Crans-Montana has once again been the constant haunt of Hollywood A-listers. such listers. as Justin Timberlake, and top sports stars such as Rory McIlroy, can attest.
A day before my arrival in December, US ski industry giant Vail Resorts announced that it had purchased the resort’s ski infrastructure for a cool $136 million. While there’s a lot of hype about the Americanization of the Alps, I can’t say I’m surprised by the news that Vail sees such value here. I’ve been visiting since 2017, having introduced it as a laidback resort at the junction of two Alpine villages on the right bank of the Rhône valley, nestled among 87 miles of sun-drained slopes to the south.
Forgotten history
“The first downhill ski race in the world was held in Crans-Montana, in 1911 – people tend to forget that,” says Pierre-Henri Mainetti, head of sales and marketing at the resort. Before Verbier hosted the Freeride World Tour or Zermatt World Cup races, an English group ran the Kandahar Challenge Cup, named after British General Lord Roberts, from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier at 9,850 feet, giving Crans-Montana its fair share. snow record.
The resort was a hangout for the rich, famous and royal in the 1980s. British actor Roger Moore owned a chalet here and stars from U2’s Bono to Alain Delon were guests – later the Duchess of Edinburgh (Sophie Rhys-Jones) spent a season here. But it suffered when the exchange rate to the Swiss Franc became unsafe, and British tour operators managed to focus on better value resorts in the region.
Five star addresses
I’ve visited several times in recent years and, with Vail Resorts preparing to invest – pledging an additional $35 million in investment over the next five years – the air is expected to flourish again. This season sees the latest five-star sign, in the opening of the Six Senses hotel.
Fresh December snow, glowing white with the evening sunlight, is swallowed up by the exclusive darkness of the hotel’s underground entrance, driving me into the crucible of a luxury transformation, ten years in the making. The global luxury brand chose this lesser-known resort for its first foray into ski hotels, and, from mid-century lobby styling to saxophone après-ski, its modern vibe is perfectly suited to chic upscale skiing. .
After a full-body massage and an aromatic sauna had washed away all feelings of fatigue, I suggested the combination of high-level service with Six Senses and an informal atmosphere to the hotel’s marketing manager, Titiana Mahieu. “We strive to provide an exclusive experience for our guests, but we also want you to feel comfortable with us,” she replied. It is a statement that could also explain Crans-Montana as a destination, which combines a sunny attitude with a solid high-end offer.
Other luxury openings this year include the five-star Hotel Rhodania by Hyatt Unbound Collection and the dining and nightlife experience La Ferme Sainte-Amour, renowned in Courchevel and Megève. Part of the catalyst for change here is that developers are taking advantage of local land prices being half that of Verbier. The popular Le Régent International School has given the ultra-rich an excuse to work remotely from a ski resort, with their kids on board nearby.
Unspoiled slopes and refined food
The next morning the conditions were bluebird, with excellent visibility – the resort basks in 300 days of sunshine a year. I made the most of it (and suffered serious leg burn) by riding the gondola network to the top of the ski area before descending 5,000 feet vertically back down to one of the four base stations.
Although the skiing, across the four sectors of Crans, Montana, Barzettes-Violettes and Aminona, may not include many gnarly black runs, after spending some time here the tourist board’s “family destination” label – to honor the extensive nursery slopes. – it looks like a pigeon hole.
I stopped for a refreshing lunch of champagne and flank steak at 6,500 feet on the sun terrace of the Chertzeron, a luxury hotel converted from the old lift station in 2014 (the restaurant opened in 2009). I was awestruck by the views of the high mountains – with Crans-Montana facing across a snow-clad sky marching a familiar parade of famous peaks 13,000 feet from the sky from the Weisshorn to the Matterhorn. The high alpine air was so clear I could see Mont Blanc.
I remembered a similar surprise on another visit when I had the opportunity to split a board up to a mountain hut as night fell. We dined on hand-served raclette before heading back down by the light of head torches. Overlooking the sparkling villages of Crans-sur-Sierre and Montana stretching across the broad plateau at 4,900 feet, the scale of the development was emphasized here, as well as its character. Brand new five-star hotels are tastefully wrapped in evergreen clumps, and spread their light like diamonds flickering before a cozy Alpine fire.
Top value variety
This winter in Crans-Montana I heard more British voices than ever, reflected in the UK accounting for 12.6 per cent of overnight visitors – the third largest cohort in town. Michael Palmer from Plymouth told me: “I’ve never been here before, but the food and drink is amazing and everywhere is spotless. I was surprised at how talkative everyone was, and not affected by the huge crowds of organized holidays – the dynamic lift pass prices were also published.”
This is not a euphemism to move the masses, but a very useful way to take advantage of lower prices during quieter weeks, even during the high season. While Swiss resorts don’t really feel busier, Crans-Montana manages to deliver luxury at a price you can’t beat.
As I leaned back in my chair drinking in the Alpine panorama across the Rhône valley, the smooth honey flavor of Petite Arvine – grown in 17 vineyards across the 8,200 feet of vertical land from Crans-Montana to the Sierra – carried me up into the high cobalt. a sky above those steep snowy peaks, where my aching feet from a day on the slopes were completely forgotten… With more than 125 years of world-class development under its belt, and renewed interest from property developers and tech entrepreneurs, the future looks good. Crans-Montana.
Fundamentals
How to get there
Fly to Geneva with Swiss Air (flights from £140 return), then take the train direct from the airport to Sierre, where a newly upgraded 12-minute funicular leaves three times an hour to the resort station , Montana Gare. Find out more at Crans-montana.ch.
Where to stay
Six Senses offers Crans-Montana’s only five-star ski-in/ski-out hotel experience. The hotel has two restaurants, a spa and an in-house ski shop. Doubles cost from £780pp/pn.
