by Ranking shows the biases associated with a minute of time. Which one of them? Derby 25 has been added to the magazineth out of 25 in its survey of major UK cities (and 62nd out of 62 overall) due to the polls giving “one two stars for food and drink, accommodation, cultural sights and tourist attractions, shopping and convenience to go around”.
But what about history, local people and other sights? Ian Nairn called Derby “the most Midland town in the Midlands” and I’ve often thought that the city’s place on the map leads people to expect it to be average, unrecognisable, one thing or another. Indeed, Derby has a long history, as is immediately apparent to even the slightly curious visitor.
The Grade I-listed Cathedral of All Saints has a tall, square, 16th-century Perpendicular Gothic tower – an ancient site. The remainder was rebuilt in the 18th century and many have compared the interior to that of St Martin’s in the Fields in Trafalgar Square. As I was once, briefly, employed as a verger at the latter, I may have a soft spot for Derby Cathedral. It has the oldest ring of ten bells in the world. Surely it should nudge up any ranking.
Like many British towns, Derby grew and got dirty and crashed during the Industrial Revolution. It was right at the beginning when Hargreaves, Strutt and Lombe established a water-powered silk mill in 1717, not far north of All Saints. It is now the Museum of Manufacturing, which one generous visitor in the program Which? the survey was noted to be worth a visit.
It all depends on what you like, of course, but who wouldn’t want the world’s smallest engine to “run using human hair” or a seven-tonne Rolls-Royce Trent? Admission is free, except for some talks. Derby Art Gallery has the largest collection of works by Joseph Wright, who was born in Derby in 1734. under threat – the beauty of nature.
Derby was a powerhouse in aeronautical, railway and automobile engineering. The Midland Railway made the city its main hub, and the station remains a crossing point for trains between Birmingham, Cardiff, Crewe, Bournemouth and Nottingham, Reading to Newcastle, and the Penzance to Aberdeen – United Kingdom Trans-Siberian service.
It’s only 130 miles to London – the fastest train is 1h 27 mins – and while I wouldn’t want to rate a city on its usefulness as a brain drain for the Smoke, we should recognize that the Midlands headquarters of Derby -headquarters. built St Pancras station – a classic example of mud in the provinces bringing brass to the capital.
Derby was (and still is) the home of the Rolls-Royce Engineering Company, which designed, built and developed the Merlin engine used to power the Spitfire and Hurricane fighter planes during the Second World War. The Trent turbofan engines that most of us take on overseas holidays are assembled here. The business was incorporated as Rolls-Royce Limited in 1906, and a new factory opened in Derby in 1908. The buildings on Nightingale Road are listed by Historic England.
Rolls-Royce and Bentley cars have a long history connected to Derby, with gorgeous Toyotas and Paramounts also built nearby. A new museum, Great Northern Classics – located at the former Victoria Ironworks foundry, which until recently served as the Rolls-Royce Heritage Center – showcases classic cars from all eras.
Derby sits in the foothills of the Pennines. Where Nottingham and Leicester are tough fellow East Midlands cities, with tough red brick terraces, Derby is more stone and stucco. It would have been even larger if many 18th century houses had not been pulled down to create a dual carriageway. However, the countryside is always nearby, and three sides of the city are dotted with National Trust properties.
The Derwent, which flows through Derby, is best known for turning waterwheels, but it also gives the city region spaces for greenery and clean air. Less than two miles upstream is Darley Abbey Mill. Although this site is in commercial use – Darleys restaurant is in the Michelin guide – it is part of the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site, most of which is another six miles to the north (the train goes there; the Transpeak bus goes forward). you there for £2). A little further north is Chatsworth House and Edale, where the Pin Way begins its northward tramp.
Twelve miles to the south west is Burton upon Trent, the national capital of beer making. Just to the south, at the same distance, is Ashby-de-la-Zouch, site of Lord Hastings’ great tower and gateway to the national forest – a 200 square mile conservation zone protecting millions of trees.
So there is definitely plenty to see and do. In terms of food, drink and accommodation, Derby ranked favorably with Nottingham and Sheffield in one 2023 survey of the best places to drink, possibly thanks to its 106 CAMRA-approved real ale pubs per 100,000 people , including several award-winning venues. . He was also sixth The Telegraphin the top ten cities recently. There are hotels for all budgets, and couples can stay at the centrally located Cathedral Quarter Hotel for less than £70 a night (half the price of a chain hotel stay in many cities).
There are sushi, curry, Mediterranean, Greek, tapas, pizza, seafood and unique restaurants, cafes, proper local bakeries, delis to sample Bakewell pudding (different from a tart) and Stilton cheese, and hot dogs – developed by Derby – maybe. Harry Stevens was born in 1901 (perhaps because he couldn’t pronounce “dachshund”).
There are things missing from Derby’s cityscape, for sure. Post-industrialization has destroyed every town that once depended on man, machines and muscle. But Derby is fine. The Midlands is the heart of the English nation, and this old city has been at the center of everything historical and social and logistical since almost forever. Get over your city rage, and have a weekend break there. Over-tourism won’t be a problem, nor hipsters, nor £5 coffees, nor £7 pints.
