by At first I was excited. Then I was afraid. Now I can’t believe my luck. Like one of those fictional characters trapped in a found-yourself Hollywood comedy, I was the one who received the unexpected phone call on a dark winter’s day: a voice on the other end saying I’d just passed a farmhouse. from the 15th Century to inherit and 50 acres of rolling Tuscan countryside.
I had no idea it was coming; the journey of how it ended when I was a convoluted one of marriages, divorces and death. But as a result I found myself the recipient and sole owner of an Italian property and, as soon as I understood, all the responsibilities that would come with it.
Because of this I found myself, a week or so later, firmly in the stage fright amongst the curling carpets and strip lighting of Stansted airport waiting to board a Ryanair flight to Florence. I am writing this now because when I arrived I found a place, thankfully, it was not scary but so perfect that I want everyone to come and experience it too.
Let’s start with the site. Located halfway between Florence and Siena on the hill crest parked less than a mile from the edge of the obsessively-Instagrammed village of Castellina-i-Chianti, the house is in the heart of the golden triangle of the Renaissance Tuscany. Not only the big three of Florence, Pisa and Siena (complete with horse races in July and August Palio) but also lesser known gems like San Gimingnano and Val d’Orcia are all within walking distance.
But it’s not the historical beauty of the surrounding cities and towns that makes the location so special. What I realized as I turned off the main road and onto the gravel covered lanes that lead up and down the surrounding hills to my new Italian home is that this is a place blessed with the most precious of gifts – peace and peace.
It is an agricultural haven full of cypresses: a place where there is no traffic or human burden except for the vineyards and olive groves that dominate the surrounding landscape. Woods and forests hug the roadside. Driving through, deer and wild boar emerged from the foliage to shove their feet in shock away from my oncoming car.
Less than a 15 minute drive in Castellina are excellent restaurants with famous chefs. Forty-five minutes away is the beautiful city of Florence. Near the end of my new property, I would see, is a vineyard whose wine is internationally prized and where visitors can take tours to drink straight from their latest bottles.
But, at the time of my arrival, none of this was under consideration. Rather it was just the overwhelming feeling that I had stepped out of ordinary life and into the background of Fattori’s painting with all the relief it could bring.
The house is called Il Bacio, Italian for Kiss, which I can’t help but like, and as you turn down its driveway it greets you like a stone-clad ship sitting at the dock. Spread over two floors and having five sprawling bedrooms with their own bathrooms, it even has its own courtyard and library. The old wooden olive press from his farm days in the 19th century stands on what is now the dining room. The ancient hearth, which dates back to the 15th century, is as much the heart of the family as it was when everyone who lived there had to gather around it for cooking and warmth.
The previous owner, and the one I inherited, was my grandfather’s third wife. She was known to some for her sense of taste and culture; the type of London lady on tables at theaters and never in the presence of the first night at the Royal Academy. The result was that I didn’t have to do anything other than add suitable electronic modules. The décor and furniture were already perfect down to the stacks of paper bags that littered each bedside table.
You sat on the veranda, staring out at the valley below, feeling closed off from the outside world. Worries about how strong to make a gin and tonic or what book to pick up next
But what I liked most was the football pitch garden – that and the woods that surround it. My grandfather, when he bought the place in the late 60s, had no interest in making olives or wine. It wasn’t really the agricultural type. This has meant that the land has been under what is now known as reforestation for the past fifty years. Across its 50 acres is a tableau of woodland, steeped by rapid streams, teeming with wildlife that was looking for, and found, its own haven.
You sat on the veranda, staring out at the valley below, feeling closed off from the outside world. Concerns arise over how strong to make a gin and tonic or what book to pick up next. We all know how terrible the world can feel right now. But did not sit there.
There is a separate property with a live in house manager to look after you so there will be no stress. In spring and summer bathe in the sun and enjoy the long sunset evenings. In autumn and winter cozy around the fireplace after visiting the nearby sites that are free of tourists at that time.
Our latest guests were a group of archers from the Midlands competing in a Tuscan tournament. The garden was their swing. It was long before they could set their goals and practice for their competition.
So come and stay. Explore Tuscany if you like. Enjoy the house and everything in it if you don’t. Above all, an escape from the real world. Relax and let us host you. I know how lucky I am to have received a phone call that unexpectedly opened this new world for me. I hope reading this will do that for you too. Come and visit your Tuscan home too.
If you want to stay at Il Bacio send an email to stayilbacio@gmail.com or book at abnb.me
Five places to visit in Tuscany
Florence
A city renowned by UNESCO as the “greatest concentration of works of art of universal renown in the world” does not need to be disturbed but as well as the sights to enjoy wandering its maze of streets looking for mementos or just to enjoy their extremely tasty paninis.
Siena
The Romantic Gothic city of Tuscany with its famous horse race, the Palio di Siena, held in July and August is full of historical artistry but no museum. Its terracotta streets are bustling with activity, especially as many university students fill its bars.
Chianti Vineyard
Almost all great estates offer the opportunity to visit for tours and tastings, and the most iconic ones are worth a visit not only for the wine but also for the architecture. Both Brolio and Meleto, for example, can boast of their own castles.
San Gimingnano
It is perhaps Tuscany’s most iconic hilltop town with its 14 medieval towers offering unparalleled views. A place where you can wander its paths, marvel at its series of medieval frescoes, and then linger on the fine local vernaccia white wine.
Val d’Orcia
Tuscany’s most beautiful and picturesque valley offers endless views of the stunning surroundings and provides the most iconic tree-lined cobblestone roads we all know from pictures, in a landscape that has barely changed since the 14th and 15th centuries.
