by Zermatt provides a magical combination of almost everything you could hope for in a ski resort. Every enthusiastic skier should make the pilgrimage there at least once in their life. Yes, it’s expensive (like all centers in Switzerland) – but it’s worth it to scrimp and save.
I visited for the first time on a day trip from Saas-Fee in 1985 and I was impressed by its amazing, high, snowy slopes, great long runs amidst amazing scenery, excellent mountain restaurants and a beautiful car-free village.
Since then I’ve been back more than a dozen times, often for a week’s vacation with friends and my non-skiing wife. They all love it too – here’s why.
Snow-sure piste and heli-skiing
Zermatt’s own slopes include some stunning highlights in four main sectors and also link up with the Cervinia ski area in Italy – offering more than 360km of runs in total. There is skiing for all levels – including a great beginner area, easy blue runs, plenty of long reds and challenging blacks and single pistes.
It is also very snowy, with many runs above 2,500m, a large glacier area and extensive snowmaking. I’ve visited many times in late March and never had poor snow – an increasingly rare promise across the Alps.
Unique to Europe, there is also a large heli-skiing operation. The run starting at 4,200m on the Monte Rosa glacier is one of the best on the planet – it carries skiers away from all lifts through dramatic glacial scenery. It is 16km long and takes three to four hours to complete.
World-renowned sights within easy reach
When I first visited Zermatt the lift system was very fragmented, even by 1980s standards – some of the sectors required buses or taxis. Furthermore, to get between two of the peaks, you had to walk along a narrow path with a large drop on one side and a rope to hang on to on the other, while carrying your skis in a cable car box. How different it is now.
With powerful gondolas, cable cars and fast wheelchairs that efficiently connect all sectors, even pedestrians can travel from Zermatt across the international border to Cervinia and back in comfort.
Zermatt’s trademark and logo is the majestic Matterhorn mountain. It can be seen from all over the ski area and most of the village. To see it in all its glory, I love taking the quaint cog railway up from the village to Gornergrat – sit on the right for uninterrupted views of this magical mountain for the 30 minute journey.
Just as spectacular are the spectacular views of glaciers and crevasses from Gornergrat and the gondola ride from Trockener Steg (2,940m) to the Klein Matterhorn (3,880m) – sit on the left this time for a front seat.
The best mountain restaurants in the world
Lunch is a big deal in Zermatt with over 50 mountain huts to choose from, most with cozy ancient wooden interiors and spacious terraces with stunning views of the Matterhorn. My favorite guest houses include Chez Vrony and Findlerhof (aka Franz and Heide’s) below Sunegga, Fluhalp (higher up in a secluded piste side location, often with live music on the huge terrace) and Zum See below little Furi tiny
They all serve traditional Swiss dishes but specialize in delicious (and expensive) gourmet cuisine, often including duck, lamb and fish. I also love the Italian food at Al Bosco at Riffealp. Booking is essential everywhere – this is one of the most popular resorts in the world after all.
For something simpler, it’s hard to beat the 10 types of rösti (grated pan-fried potatoes) served with different meats, eggs and cheese at Furri Restaurant at Furi.
Infinite magic
Before arriving at one of the most beautiful corners of the Alps, drivers must leave their cars in the village of Tasch, about 6km from Zermatt, and travel the rest of the way by train. You depart the station to meet electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages to take you to your accommodation.
The village is car-free and that’s a big part of its alluring appeal. The buildings are a mix of ancient sheds and barns, grand hotels from the 19th century and modern addresses, mostly traditional in style but some definitely funky. The oldest and prettiest area has narrow lanes and old wooden barns and stables with slate roofs, many with stilts to keep the mice out – built in the 16th until 18th Over the centuries, they are unique in resorts, like Zermatt, that have stood the test of time.
Don’t miss the Matterhorn Museum, which tells the story of the first ascent of the mighty mountain in 1865, led by Englishman Edward Whymper. Tragically, four of the seven members of his climbing party died on the way down. This year the museum has a special exhibition on the 125th anniversary of the Gornergrat railway.
Final verdict
Simply put, no other Swiss resort can compete with the Zermatt ski area in terms of size and variety of slopes. And none of them have such excellent mountain menus. Of those that offer the same size and variety of slopes, Davos and St Moritz are towns or cities rather than villages and have an urban feel; plus they both have several separate ski areas rather than one linked map.
Verbier has a lot of great terrain for expert skiers but much less for beginners and intermediates and I’ve always found the village to lack soul and character. If you’re looking for the ultimate Swiss ski holiday you can’t beat its most famous post.
Need to know
My favorite hotel in Zermatt is the four-star Alex: central, delightfully quirky decor, good food, large swimming pool, saunas, steam room, indoor tennis and squash. From £2,045 per person, for two sharing a room for a week, with Ski Solutions (020 3918 7901) including flights, Swiss Rail transfers and half board.
During a vacation in the resort, I love the First Track experience – on Mondays and Thursdays you can go up the mountain at 7.40am and enjoy freshly deserted slopes for an hour before the crowds arrive. The price of CHF44 (about £40) includes ski instruction and breakfast up the mountain after skiing.
Plan the perfect ski holiday in Zermatt with our expert guide.
