by A sea eagle soared high above us as we ascended the last 164 feet of a steady climb three times. The peak of Maudekollen, the mountain we had hoped for earlier that morning, was still shrouded in slow mist, carrying a strange warmth under its blanket for most of the day. But in that crucial final section, the mist dissipated and the full majesty of the deep blue fjords was revealed around us. The sea eagle came to take advantage of the sudden technicolor panorama – and completed the scene.
The heat of that day was not welcome on the 3,350 foot skin up to the summit. I was hopelessly unfit but thankfully our climb was not steep and I was making confident progress – mountain guide Sol Idland had been specifically chosen to cater for my lack of preparation.
I also didn’t have to contend with the tiring effects of altitude – in Norway, ski tours often start at sea level, with summits between 1,970 and 4,600 feet easily accessible. The highest peak in the Sunnmøre Alps – the region I was exploring – Slogen, sits at 5,131 feet, making the experience of schlepping up the hill less daunting than it is. in most other alpine nations, where daily trips start at about 5,000 feet and may rise. as high as 10,000 feet.
Solli said she was feeling the heat too – an understatement typical of the friendly, relaxed mantra of the Norwegian mountains. Unlike the more competitive circuses of the Alps, such as the heavily crowded Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, Norway has a calmer, quieter approach to ski touring – which is booming in demand for recent winters – and it’s the perfect accessory. to the nation’s best scenery.
Earlier that day, we had started by the water, putting our skins on at the dock and weaving past brightly painted houses on a forest trail, which slowly opened out into a moonlit landscape. The silence was broken only by the noise of a small stream meandering its way through a mountain birch.
At the start of our climb, we met a local skier who stopped to chat in the sunshine while I adjusted my boots. “I’m going up to the lake by the dam to eat my lunch,” he announced. “So, I’m not sure after that, just out for a nice day.”
The Sunnmøre Alps are one of Norway’s most famous ski touring areas, but apart from this local, we didn’t see another soul all day. With more than 100 different peaks, there is endless terrain to suit all levels of skiing, even beginners, which now have dedicated ski touring trails to help people get off the beaten track without having to train or not knowing how to ski. .
“We get a lot of beginners,” explained Solli, “it’s really nice to get people out of ski resorts and lifts, to really show them the mountains here. They come back very happy, feeling really good about mastering it.”
I flew into Ålesund, an Art Nouveau port town at the entrance to Geirangerfjord, a Unesco World Heritage Site on the west coast of Norway, to take part in a “Ski the Fjords” adventure with family company, 62 Nord. Their mission is to offer visitors to this region luxury accommodation and unique outdoor experiences.
Although not the cheapest destination to ski, Norway is not known for luxury accommodation, especially in the Sunnmøre Alps. However, he is famous for his windsurfing adventures. Sleeping overnight on a sailboat, spending your days skiing the surrounding mountains and dealing with the drying of gear and showering with limited water is often not too sweet.
But the 62 Nord program allows guests to stay in each of its three luxurious hotels, and travel by motorboat each morning to a new location – a great arrangement for skiers who don’t want to rough it, and for the number of always increase. for their first ski tour.
We spent the night at the Storfjord Hotel, a 45-minute drive from Ålesund airport, situated on the edge of an evergreen forest, with bedrooms covered in wood, stone, rough hewn linens and wool and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the trees. . The feeling of complete immersion in nature was overwhelming. We dined heartily the night before on juicy locally caught crab, lobster and venison, with a pre-dinner cocktail made with Norwegian birch syrup, tonic water, gin and lemon before a soundless sleep.
The next morning, after a big breakfast, we were picked up by a smart motorboat at the jetty that was waiting to whisk us across the water. 62 Nord is keen for guests to explore the concept of “friluftsliv,” a Norwegian philosophy of enjoying a simple life in undisturbed nature. Fortunately, the region’s alpine terrain and more than 100 rugged peaks are best accessed from the water; small hamlets and individual farms dotted around the fjords with wooden pontoons plunging into the calm waters providing perfect landing spots.
We cruised along Hjørundfjorden, 3,280ft high cliffs jutting above clear dark waters before diverting to the roadless village of Trandal. The small town – with a population of around seven – is famous on social media as the site of the world’s most beautiful swing. I was surprised when, for the first time ever, reality took off from Instagram; this remote rope and plank swing suspended from tall pines defied expectations.
On to Maudkollen, and although, after three hours of slowly climbing up, the sea eagle provided the backdrop for our summit photo, the skiing was heavy. I’ve experienced incredible powder on previous trips to Norway, but thanks to the unusual warmth of this particular day in March (temperatures that were reflected across Europe last season) the snow burned down on my skis. However, it hardly mattered after the day’s exhilarating experience and my newly adopted “friluftsliv” attitude.
Back on board and reuniting with the rest of the group, who went up a 1,970 foot climb suitable for beginners on specially prepared slopes near the village of Leira, our skipper whisked us to the Grand Old Hotel Union Øye (each boat trip took about an hour). A property rich in history, it is the perfect place to replenish energy levels after a day on the mountains. Øye has been sympathetically renovated and expanded in 2022, with a carefully prepared menu of cocktails and food featuring local foraged herbs, mushrooms and fish to round off a dream day at the fjords.
The next morning, to soothe my aching feet, I enjoyed the Nordic tradition of the sauna, followed by a jump in the fjord; sun shining over the clear waters with snow on the dock, it offered a magical clarity.
I always leave Norway wanting more, and this time I left wondering, was this ski trip at its best – a way for different levels of skiers to holiday together and enjoy luxury amongst some of the most awesome terrain in the world? Having now tried the best ski adventure of all kinds – hut to hut adventures, resort day touring and now a sail skiing adventure – this combination definitely gets my vote.
Fundamentals
Abigail was a guest at 62 Nord. 62 Nord’s “Ski the Fjords” package costs from NOK 112,000 (£8,312) per person including accommodation, meals, all ground transfers (road and water), ski touring equipment, and guide. The maximum group size is eight. Excluding alcoholic beverages. Flights to Ålesund from the UK via Oslo start from NOK 1400 (£105).
