How to spot geisha in Japan – and how to behave

A slit of silk kimono. Clip the wooden shoes on cobblestones. A flash of scarlet lips on a face painted white.

For many visitors to Kyoto, capturing a dreamy sight of a geisha is a holy grail. Steeped in ritual and layered in beauty, a geisha is one of Japan’s most poetic expressions of its traditional cultural heritage.

But the world of flowers and willows known as Kyoto has long been as elusive as it is enticing, especially for tourists – and it will soon become harder than ever to see it.

This week, officials in Kyoto’s historic geisha district Gion announced plans to limit access to its atmospheric centuries-old network of back streets, lined with time-capsule teahouses and wooden dwellings, in a bid to curb contributing to a sharp boom in post-pandemic tourism.

The move follows a catalog of complaints from locals, with questions from tourists chasing geisha down the streets to take photos to one with a torn kimono and another with a cigarette sticking out of her collar .

Although some of these incidents are very serious, it is clear that the overcrowding of Gion’s scenic backstreets is a growing issue, which is very much at odds with the rarefied and exclusive culture that has long defined the core of the geisha world.

Many experts point to over-tourism as part of the problem – placing most of the blame on tourists’ general lack of awareness of the sensitive layers of Japanese culture.

As James Mundy, specialist Japanese tour operator InsideJapan Tours (insidejapantours.com), explains: “Kyoto is a beautiful place, and it’s popular for good reason. And, to some extent, it’s understandable that the crowds of tourists flock there, trying to get that perfect picture of a temple or that snap of a geisha. But this is about responsible tourism and cultural awareness, which some big tour companies and individuals are not interested in. They focus instead on getting that photo for their social media.

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“Temples and shrines are part of everyday life for local people, and in some of the most popular places, tourists often get in the way. It is the disruption to normal life – and more importantly, the lack of respect and cultural awareness – that angers the local people and spurred the local authorities into action.”

What is a geisha?

There is often a clouded understanding of what it means to be a geisha.

The world of the geisha – or geiko, as they are known in Kyoto – has long been a symbol of refinement, beauty and mastery of the traditional arts.

They have been intensively trained as apprentices (called maiko) for years, and are highly talented entertainers, who have mastered traditional Japanese artistic methods, from dancing and playing musical instruments to tea ceremony and the art of conversation.

The geisha world has long thrived in Kyoto in particular. The ancient city was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years, until the late 19th^th century, and was consequently the birthplace of numerous iconic traditions. Like tea ceremonies, ikebana flower arranging and kimono textiles, the life of the geisha is deeply etched into the fabric of Kyoto’s cultural DNA and local life.

As Mundy explains: “There are many misconceptions about geisha. One is that they are prostitutes – which there are not many of. Geisha respect traditional hosts, trained for many years in the performing arts, which enables them to provide an exclusive traditional entertainment service that includes dance, music, drinks, games and conversation. They are certainly not tourist sights, but guardians of traditional culture.”

Where can you experience authentic geisha culture today?

Although Gion is the most famous hub for geisha in Kyoto, it is not the only place where tourists can get a taste of this world of willows and flowers.

Kyoto has five traditional geisha districts – called Hanamachi, which translates as “flower town” – and many neighborhoods offering a more down-to-earth and local experience.

But wandering the streets of these areas clutching an iPhone in the hope of catching a glimpse of a geisha is not the best way to go about it. Not only does it add to issues of over-tourism and interfere with daily life, but it also rarely captures the beauty and essence of geisha skills.

Instead, choose a reputable tour operator or luxury hotel, many of which can arrange access to an authentic experience, by booking a tea ceremony or dinner in a private tea house with a geiko.

For a more budget-conscious experience? Gion Corner also offers a program of performing arts and traditional culture – with an hour-long exhibition including Kyoto dance with maikos as well as tea ceremony, ikebana and kyogen comedy. Visitors can even have their photo taken here with a maiko or geiko. Tickets are available online (kyoto-gioncorner.com) and through the Kyoto Kyo Navi Tourist Information Center (kyoto.travel).

What rules and etiquette should you follow when meeting a geisha?

The guidelines drawn up by the Kyoto City Tourism Association together with Kyoto City in the Kyoto City Official Travel Guide are clear in their dos and don’ts. For example, visitors are advised to refrain from stopping, following or taking unauthorized photos or videos of geisha while walking around.

A “Mind Your Manners” campaign is also promoted through posters throughout the City of Kyoto, with some more general advice including:

• Move quietly when exploring residential areas or religious sites

• Don’t follow the crowd

• Leave your luggage behind

• Do not take photos where it is prohibited