by Lisbon is having a moment. It’s the place on everyone’s lips and its breezy sea views, polished tile facades and red roofs feature on many an Instagram feed. The surprising food, with a depth far beyond the famous pastéis de nata (custard tarts) that are so well known and loved. There is history; from the 12th-century Moorish castle that dominates the skyline to the magnificent 16th-century Manueline Jerónimos monastery, and the heart of Lisbon’s 18th-century bomb, built after so much of the city was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.
There is authentic, genuine and welcoming hospitality; and a wave of new affordable hotels along cobbled streets and sided bougainvillea-covered squares, all centered with a sense of place. In the case of Lisbon, unlike so much of the world, it has not gone global: it is still resolutely Portuguese, looking out to sea, with its back to the rest of Europe and its identity intact. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in this exciting city.
For more Lisbon inspiration, check out our guides to the city’s hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping and attractions.
How to spend your weekend
Day one
Morning
Start with a food-focused walking tour that puts the city in context as you go. We highly recommend Cooking Backstreets, which will introduce you to an authentic Lisbon, hidden where generations of families have been salting cod or preparing piri-piri chicken over charcoal pits.
Lisbon’s 19th-century domed market hall, the Mercado de Ribeira, was converted in 2014 into the Time Out Market, a bustling food hall that remains a major draw. Some of Lisbon’s best culinary experiences can be found here, from Michelin-starred chef outlets such as Henrique Sa Pessoa to exquisite melt-in-your-mouth hams and rare Serra da Estrela cheese at Lisbon institution Manteigaria Silva. Or, lunch on sushi with a twist at Confraria.
Evening
The Bélem district is located along the Tagus River and is home to some of the capital’s most interesting historical monuments, such as the Bélem Tower and the 16th-century Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. Take tram 15 or 127 from Praça do Comércio and jump off at the monastery. This magnificent ornate Manueline monastery was built from the taxes levied on spices flowing into the country, and contains the tomb of the great navigator Vasco de Gama, who led Portugal’s Golden Age of Discovery, as well as the tomb of the writer Luis de Camões to chronicle. with them.
A few steps from here will take you to the Café Pastéis de Bélem, named after the custard tarts (also known as pastéis de nata), which arrived here in 1837 through a secret passage from the monastery. They are still served today, hot from the oven and dusted with cinnamon.
Late
Once you’ve explored the heritage in Belém, take a stroll through the Tropical Botanic Gardens, created in 1906, which stay open until 8pm in summer, 7pm in autumn and 6pm or 5pm as winter progresses face. There are more than 600 species of exotic plants and trees, mainly from the former Portuguese colonies, as well as ducks and peacocks, a herbarium and a large lake.
After working up an appetite, you can neatly tie together the importance of spices in Portuguese history and their use in the contemporary kitchen. Reserve a table at one Michelin-starred restaurant, Feitoria, located on Bélem’s riverside, and prepare to have your senses dazzled by Malagueta, chocolate and goat’s milk dishes by talented chef Andrea Cruz. Find more of the best restaurants in the city in our guide.
Day two
Morning
Start by climbing the winding medieval streets of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, Alfama, to the city’s Moorish hill, Castelo São Jorge. The dusk-orange walls of the ancient castle date back to the ninth century and dominate the city, visible from almost every street. From here all of Lisbon is spread out below you.
Head to the Gulbenkian Museum, named after one of the great philanthropists of the 20th century, the Armenian Calouste Gulbenkian, who left much of his art and historical artefacts to his favorite city, Lisbon. Look out for priceless Hellenic vases, ancient Chinese porcelain and paintings by Rembrandt, Monet and Van Dyck. Find more of the city’s attractions in our guide.
Lunch at JNcQUOI, on the main boulevard of Lisbon. It’s perfect for people watching while enjoying the lobster hot dog.
Evening
Head out to Sintra and explore this extraordinary noble hill town to the west of the city, a place full of fairytale palaces, manicured flower gardens and wild woodlands. Do not miss the gardens and palace of Monserrate. The train to Sintra departs from Rossio station every 20 minutes and takes around 40 minutes.
On the way back, stop at the busy seaside town of Cascais and indulge in ice cream at Santini, a Portuguese institution that has been going strong for 60 years. Walk it out by taking the Atlantic promenade to Estoril, where old palaces from the past line the shore between tall palm trees.
Late
Mini Bar, back in the center of Lisbon, is one of the many restaurants of chef José Avillez. It is a gastro-barset within Bairro Avillez and perfect for those who enjoy culinary wizardry. The El Bulli olive is not what it seems; Algarve prawn ceviche is served on a lime wedge, and the golden egg is made from hummus. The informal atmosphere, affordable prices and friendly staff make for a fun night out, with a live DJ on Fridays and Saturdays. Find more of the best bars in the city in our guide.
Insider tips
Neighborhood watch
Príncipe Real is the neighborhood of the moment. It’s a hotspot for Lisbonites, with great bars (Pavilhão Chinês, aka The Chinese Pavilion), restaurants (A Cevicharia) and concept stores (Embaixada).
Tourist attraction
The best way to tick off a few sights is to ride the yellow tram number 28 as it wanders through Lisbon’s prettiest and most historic streets.
City gambling
Get a map of the city, a pair of flat shoes to help with the cobbles, and walk everywhere. Lisbon is not really big and if you hit the streets you will get under the skin of the place.
Sundowner spot
Head up to the rooftop terrace of Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, where at Seen you can enjoy the lively vibe and excellent cocktails with Lisbon at your feet.
Did you know?
Coffee, originally from Brazil, is excellent here, whether at one of the 19th-century pavement kiosks or at an elegant café, such as Café a Brasileira.
When should I visit Lisbon?
Lisbon is a year-round destination; rarely too hot or cold. The first spring buds usually appear around the end of February (the purple Jacaranda trees dominate the boulevards in May) and the last puffs of the Saharan winds keep the mercury high until November. August is when the locals escape for the wind of the Algarve and the tourists come en masse for the guaranteed blue skies of Lisbon.
Where to stay in Lisbon
Luxury living
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz’s prime location next to the main Avenida de Liberdade means easy access around the capital and to art museums such as the nearby Gulbenkian. The decor is stunning – think chandeliers and giant flower displays on gilded furniture. Outside a sleek new swimming pool awaits.
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£ 825
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Bollhole Boutique
The pink-walled Palacio Principe Real sits in the leafiest area of Lisbon. Its 25 rooms overlook the red-roofed capital or the Palacio’s lush gardens (think jacaranda and palm trees, vibrant bougainvillaea and Wisteria climbing up its wrought-iron staircase) set by a narrow swimming pool. Lisbon Insider awarded the best hotel rooms in the city.
From £432 per night.
Beauty budget
Teatro B&B is a seductive proposition in the cobbled heart of Lisbon’s Bairro Alto district, with 20 charming bedrooms and a theatrical interior throughout. The two-storey cafe is a local breakfast spot, with independent access from the street.
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£ 130
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What to bring home
Portuguese olive oil is delicious. Many shops will allow you to taste before you buy but to explore the abundant selection on offer, head to Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon’s best delicatessen, where regional hams hang from the ceiling and beckoning cabinets full of cheese shoppers.
From the 19th century stable of Vista Alegre came glass and crystal, porcelain and pottery, as relevant today as they were a century ago. Purchase at their store in Chiado.
Essential information: what you need to know before you go
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British Embassy: 00 351 21 392 4000; Rua de São Bernardo 33. Open Monday-Friday, 9am-1pm and 2.30-5.30pm
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Emergency services: dial 112
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Lisbon Tourist Office: 00 351 21 031 2819; visitlisboa.com, Praça do Comércio
Local laws and etiquette
The basics
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Currency: Euro
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Telephone code: dial 00 351 for Portugal, then 21 for Lisbon, when calling from the UK
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Time difference: none
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Flight time: It is just over two hours between London and Lisbon
Biography of the author
Mary has lived in the south of Portugal for over 20 years. When she is in Lisbon, you can find her chatting with the chef at the latest culinary hotspot, check out a new rooftop bar or sample the newest hotel on the block.
