by Sydney’s exorbitant cost of living may have driven many of its locals into exile, but it did little to counter eager British tourists flocking to the Emerald City – especially during Australia’s balmy summer months. And who can blame them? It may be one of the most expensive cities in the world, but it’s also one of the most beautiful (trust here: my “commute” was once a ferry ride across that glorious bay).
And while some of Sydney’s summer can come with a high price, it doesn’t have to. With a little insider know-how, swapping the British winter for a holiday in the Harbor City doesn’t have to cost a fortune. There’s little you can do about air fares – flying halfway around the world is always going to set you back a bit – but the same can’t be said for on-the-ground costs. Not all attractions require a fee, and you can often get a much better feel for the city by thinking outside the box and going for its big-ticket sights.
Beaches are almost too obvious to mention, but what would an article about Sydney be without them? There are over a hundred of these sand brushes, from the huge 5 kilometer Lady Robinson’s in Rockdale, to Turimeta near Manly, so small that it disappears from the high beach.
In Sydney, there’s no better way to spend your time than basking and swimming, and as a bonus, your biggest outlay will probably be sunscreen. If waves and surfers aren’t your thing, head to one of Sydney’s many ocean pools instead: most are part of the beach, and free; others, such as the Bondi Icebergs, charge an entrance fee – although AU$9-10 (£4-5) is a small price to pay for a day’s access to an iconic (and nearly century-old) site.
The Icebergs, however, have another allure, and that is the place under which the tides and foam swell. The three-course meal at the eponymous Dining Room is pricey (AU$155/£80), so treat yourself to cocktails and then head downstairs to the Bistro, which has the same incredible views and a more affordable menu.
This is also the starting point for the 6km walk from the top of the cliff to Coogee – a stretch worth tackling for the views and people-watching, but which takes on an extra factor every spring, when the free outdoor exhibition, Sculpture by the sea in hand. .
Of course, staying in Sydney requires time on and around the Harbour, surrounded by its waters; a “coathanger” of a bridge; and the gleaming, shell-like curves of the Opera House. And while these are undoubtedly city supermodels, they don’t necessarily check you on a budget until a day of strolling.
A night at the opera? General tickets start at AU$79/£41, but there are special offers that give access to selected performances (plus dinner and a drink at a harborside restaurant) for AU$99/£52. The nearby Botanic Gardens are also free for the general public to wander, and if you loiter near “The Con” (Sydney’s Conservatory of Music), you’re likely to be treated to the sounds of futuristic musical lights too.
A harbor tour from nearby Circular Quay will set you back around AU$65/£34, but hopping on a green and yellow ferry offers the same sights for a comparatively penny (AU$3.20/£1.60). While you’re on board, be sure to keep a close eye on the tiny figures climbing across the arch of the Harbor Bridge: they’ve paid more than AU$150/£78 for the privilege.
Give them a wave from the ferry, then board and walk freely across the pedestrian section of the Bridge at your leisure. Then head to Pylon Lookout – yes, you’ll have to climb just over 200 steps to reach the top, but you’ll be rewarded with 360° views over the harbor and access to the on-site museum, all on AU$24.95/ £13.
On his note: yes, the views from Sydney Tower – the city’s highest vantage point, dotting the skyline with its distinctive yellow, space-age structure – are pretty amazing. But for the price of admission for adults (AU$35/£18), you could drink two glasses of Yarra Valley Prosecco at the Shangri-La’s 36th-floor Blu Bar, which has magical (and free) harbor views.
Sydney’s many museums and galleries are also free, including the Museum of Contemporary Art, with its harborside location, and the Art Gallery of New South Wales, where the permanent collection displays early colonial works alongside First Nations art.
But a Sydney holiday isn’t just about ticking off the attractions: you’ve got to eat too. In a city so renowned for its food, eating out is serious business – but a budget approach doesn’t have to be missed. Try cheap, delicious dumplings at Chinese Noodle House; Legendary Italian at Bill and Toni’s; rice paper rolls at VN Streetfoods; or authentic Indian at Chatkazz in Harris Park, then use the pennies you’ve saved for a one-off splurge at a big-name restaurant, such as Quay or Bennelong.
Lest all these locations are not central, it would be a mistake to visit Sydney and stay within the bay only: the pulse of this city beats strongly, even far from its famous heart. Shopaholics can trawl the outlet stores in Homebush, or scour the suburban charity shops for designer throwbacks, while walkers should head to the bushland and coastal paths that mesmerise, through Ku-ring-gai National Park, north, and Royal. National Park, in the south.
Don’t miss a visit to the charming suburb of Manly with its bustling Corso stretch, but don’t make this your only trip to the Northern Beaches. Continue along the 36km Northern Beaches Coastal Walk towards Palm Beach, and discover less-visited beach suburbs such as North Curl and Narrabín. It is here, against the backdrop of public artwork, uncrowded sand and local beachside cafes, that the beautiful, beautiful heart of Sydney shines. And you really can’t put a price on that.
Fundamentals
British Airways and Etihad fly from London to Sydney from £1,010 and £1,222 return respectively.
The Moxy has doubles from AU$176/£91 per night; The W Sydney has doubles from AU$759/£394 per night, both including breakfast.
For more information, visit Destination NSW.
